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Whoa!! steering slop


finmad

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Ok, so I got my 47 WD-15 running and stopping nice, but holly cow the steering is loose. I can swing the wheel side to side 4-6 inches of free play. When I am turning is seems tight and solid, when I am in a straight line, it drifts and I need to constantly correct it. How do I check the parts to see what is causing this? any suggestions??

Edited by finmad
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The steering box has a slotted adjuster and lock nut, you may be able to get rid of some if it. Don't give it a lot in one whack , do a bit and see if ti works any out, then do  bit more. Is the box secured properly to the frame?  Some cars have a rubber isolator pad that gets gummy and provides a place for slop to hide.

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your repair manual has a very good section on steering.   Adjusting the cross shaft may eliminate some play but not all the paly may be attributed to this alone.  Over tightening this will cause for some harsh steering either direction of center and actually accelerate gear wear....the manual explains how to tell when this is properly adjusted by making proper tests.  You have play also in the worm bearing, the steering box adjustment is a multistep process.  As others have mentioned...the play could also be in other steering components, again, use the troubleshooting guide for loose steering in your repair manual.  IF you have loose components elsewhere..the adjusting of the steering is the last thing you will wish to do, fitting replacement components will first be required.

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I think I isolated it to the drag link. There's excessive slop I've gotten the grease fittings out in the Horshoe shaped pens but I cannot turn the slotted plugs. Anyone have a suggestions? Is there a special tool I can buy? I've tried a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to try to drift it, that didn't work. I had a thick scraper about the right size and a wrench on that and I couldn't get them to spin.

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I think I isolated it to the drag link. There's excessive slop I've gotten the grease fittings out in the Horshoe shaped pens but I cannot turn the slotted plugs. Anyone have a suggestions? Is there a special tool I can buy? I've tried a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to try to drift it, that didn't work. I had a thick scraper about the right size and a wrench on that and I couldn't get them to spin.

If it is like the slotted plugs on the drag link on my '33 Plymouth, I used the large slot blade that came with my Craftsman hand impact driver that I bought decades ago when I was too poor to buy any real tool.

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Besides using the proper tool, in a pinch you can also use a brake adjusting spoon.  You may be able to find them through Lisle Tools or the specialty pro tool suppliers.  Most of your parts house people will not have a clue what a drag ling socket is and they do come in different sizes so measure before you buy..

Edited by Dave72dt
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The drag link end cap and proper drag link socket bit....

post-302-0-47068800-1440979379_thumb.jpg

post-302-0-41527200-1440979393_thumb.jpg

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That was it. I was able to find one at a NAPA near bye but it was only 3/4 wide. I took some 1/8 inch steal and made a new tip for it longer. I was able to get the adjuster to spin on the steering box end, I adjusted it in almost 2 full turns. I could not free up the end on the axle end, my make shift tip kept breaking off, no matter how well I welded it. So I am waiting for a hardened socket the right size, I bet with some heat and penetrating spray I should be able to get that one free. Just the adjustments on one end made a world of difference. I can't wait to get the other end done.

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If it had that much wear then the ball may well not be spherical. As long as you have it loose, at least on one end, you might want to disassemble the thing and see what wear there is. Not sure about now, but not too many years ago the hardened cups, springs, etc. for the inside of that for my '33 were still available and probably were for your newer vehicle. If inspection shows too much internal wear you may want to look into that.

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That is the next step, I just need to get the front loose first then I can pull the whole drag link off and inspect it.

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