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1955 C1B Build Thread


59bisquik

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GRRRRR! Two issues came up today while working on the truck. 1) My clutch linkage and bell cranks are wrong for the V8. Fortunately 4msfamly has been great with photos of his stock V8 truck. 2) While working on cleaning up wiring and hoses etc, my Taylor wires do not fit under the covers that bolt to the valve covers! That really makes me angry. I want it as clean as possible and visible spark plug wires just aren't gonna cut it.

 

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Worked on the clutch linkage tonight. The V8 clutch linkage mounts about 6” forward of the flathead linkage. Big thanks to 4msfamly for all the photos. Still need to lengthen the pedal to bell crank linkage about 6” and find a home for the return spring. Also had to clock the starter so the linkage clears by a hair. 

 

Thought that keeps popping into my head... just because a V8 was an option, doesn’t mean the V8 will just drop in!

 

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Edited by 59bisquik
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On 3/19/2018 at 7:45 PM, 59bisquik said:

GRRRRR! Two issues came up today while working on the truck. 1) My clutch linkage and bell cranks are wrong for the V8. Fortunately 4msfamly has been great with photos of his stock V8 truck. 2) While working on cleaning up wiring and hoses etc, my Taylor wires do not fit under the covers that bolt to the valve covers! That really makes me angry. I want it as clean as possible and visible spark plug wires just aren't gonna cut it.

 

 

 

...sounds like 8mm stuff....

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Yup, Taylor 8MM wires. Its not that the wires will not fit, but the ceramic ends are really tall and stick up far enough that the covers will not fit. Its too late for Viva, but is there another option that fits under the covers? I didnt see a whole lot out there.

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...ceramic won't fit..?       you must then have Chrysler insulators. Buy some of the 'plastic' pieces and cut them to fit.

As to the 8mm, they are often a problem simply because they are so fat.

 

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Edited by wayfarer
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The plan WAS today to document how to install a R10 on a V8 55 bellhousing. First I pulled the brake drums and swapped them over because the car and truck have a different driveshaft pattern. The same goes for the rear yoke if you are installing a car differential from a  Plymouth etc. Next was to swap the shifter unit because the levers are quite a bit different. When I pulled the cover I found broken teeth! This will have to go to rebuild and I am stuck with the stock 3 speed for now. Hope the patterns and such all match up.

 

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Ended up putting the stock 3 speed back in. I need to be ready in a couple weeks and a tranny overhaul is not in the plan. I got most of it done, just need to shorten the linkages and extend the driveshaft. Dont mind the wiring hanging around down there... thats just from my control box, so I can run the engine from under the hood.

 

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I ended up going back to the wires which were really bugging me. I pulled out my tubing cutter and took a shot on the plastic on the spark plugs. Now the covers fit! Just need to bend up some hard tubing to tidy up the fuel line and finish removing/hiding the rest of the wiring under the hood.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

17 days and counting until the deadline! I dropped off the driveshaft to have it lengthened today. I should get it back before the weekend. Next I begrudgingly removed my first attempt at front engine mounts and cut up a pair of 66-72 Dodge engine mounts to use the 3 bolt pattern. I will finish welding all of that together this weekend. Also need to pull the shifter lever and flatten it out on my press so I can clear the driver side valve cover when I shift into 2nd. 

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Got the driveshaft installed today and then started working on the shift linkage. It used to have a dog leg forward. I flattened it out on the press and then shaved the extra bolt length off to give it more clearance. Its pretty tight in Reverse and 2nd.

 

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Edited by 59bisquik
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7 minutes ago, 56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu said:

um if it causing you problems and you want to go back to stock/or before you put it thru the press I do believe that we got that part still, it's yours if you need it k. 

         Michelle & Jerry

Thanks guys! The picture already shows it pressed flat and I hope it works that way. If it doesn’t I will let you know. Thanks again! 

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7 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

Thanks guys! The picture already shows it pressed flat and I hope it works that way. If it doesn’t I will let you know. Thanks again! 

Just remember no charge to you.

And you are very welcome. 

Edited by 56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu
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Rebuilt the front mounts and used 68 Challenger mounts and brackets. They needed a bit of massaging to work.

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Next I had to dog leg the shifter backwards from stock so it would clear the valve cover. That press has paid for itself 10 fold over the years!

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Edited by 59bisquik
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Built a linkage today out of some 3/16" rod stock and some hiem joints. Looks like that will work fine.

 

BUT, ran into a problem with the truck burning up the ballast resistor. It ran for a few minutes and then quit. It would only start and then die immediately after it died. One other weird thing, after it failed and I tried starting it a few times, the starter would come on when the key was placed in run. I am guessing something is funny with the ignition switch.

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Got the ignition issue solved thanks to some help on the board. I added a relay as suggested and also installed a diode in the run circuit and now she starts and runs. Installed the new starter I had shipped overnight and verified it wasnt hanging up. Also adjusted the clutch and was able to drive her around the yard. Now I need to head over to the exhaust shop and see if I can get it welded up or if I will have to go back to manifolds. Its pretty tight! Lots of little things still to do, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel. 

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Got her on the road today for a little while and up to the exhaust shop. She sure has alot more get up and go! I didnt want to push her too hard until I got some more road time on her. I ended up with 2 1/2" duals and Flowmaster Super 10's. She is loud and sounds great! Tomorrow I need to get all of the bulbs swapped over to 12V and finish up the wiring as well as shorten one of the shift linkages.

 

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Got all of the lights swapped over to 12v today and buttoned up some wiring. Got a little bit more road time on her and makes me want a overdrive all the more! I need to adjust the shift linkage tomorrow and build a bracket to attach the pedal mount to the cross member. In L6 stock location, they bolt together. With V8 location, the cross member is 4" forward and requires a brace to stiffen the brake pedal mount.

 

I think I might take ear plugs for my Vegas trip. I will drive her to work Monday-Wednesday to get some more road time on her before Vegas. Thats 120 miles a day in very similar terrain and weather.

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On 4/16/2018 at 8:44 AM, 59bisquik said:

Found out today after some spirited driving what the funny smell was... clutch is t strong enough for this engine. Cruising is fine, but no hot rodding. I sure hope they make a bigger clutch for this?!

Can you go to an 11 inch clutch?

Whats this truck like with V8 power?

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5 hours ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said:

Can you go to an 11 inch clutch?

Whats this truck like with V8 power?

I am sure there is a larger plate available. There is a lot of room left on the flywheel and another bolt pattern. If not, I can take it to a clutch shop and they will beef it up.

 

As for the V8, there is no comparison!

 

The flatty is nostalgia cool and gets lots of looks at the shows with its acorn nut caps, dual exhaust and carbs etc. Not to mention the flatty sounds great and turns heads with twice pipes and short glass packs.

 

However,  the V8 has triple the HP with a great sound. The vintage Hemi is one of the coolest old engines out there and looks so tidy with the hidden spark plug wires and such. 

 

I am having a few oil pressure issues which I need to sort out. Even with the issues I am having, I would never go back the flatty. The V8 is just awesome and makes this thing an awesome cruiser! Once I get the OD squared away I’m sure it will even be more enjoyable.

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