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1955 C1B Build Thread


59bisquik

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  • 2 weeks later...
7 hours ago, lonejacklarry said:

Is this your wife's new Christmas present?

 

She wanted jewelry for Christmas?

Just explain this is antique jewelry!  :unsure:

Worth a try? :eek:

Merry Christmas to all!! The reason for the season.

DJ

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On 8/10/2015 at 10:58 AM, 59bisquik said:

Time to start going back together... A Fenton intake and a home made exhaust manifold ought to wake it up a bit!

Engine%204%202005_zpsd2exgqzg.jpgEngine%202%202005_zpsflnekk7g.jpgengine%201%202005_zpshb2vink7.jpgEngine%203%202005_zpsdzfhrhge.jpgExhaust%202005_zpsliw7kh5i.jpg

I like how the engine looks in red.

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I may have been the guy mentioned with the 360 in the 1959 D100.  I managed to break the frame behind the steering box once.  I was running it up to 7000 RPM with a 11:1 360.  I was driving it daily on race gas.  Way before settling down and having a family! After I reinforced the frame, my problems went away with cracking up the frame.  If you drive it sensibly, your frame will be fine.  If you drive it hard, follow 48Dodger's advice.  Your truck is a beauty!

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I will look at the frame once I have it apart and look into boxing/bracing. I have been trying to find a replacement frame to do all the mods on and then just swap it. 

I think my frame has a tweak to it. I really have trouble lining up the cab and bed and at one time, somebody even modified the passenger rear cab mount.

Edited by 59bisquik
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1 minute ago, 59bisquik said:

I will look at the frame once I have it apart and look into boxing/bracing. I have been trying to find a replacement frame to do all the mods on and then just swap it. 

Awwwwww..  If I knew you sooner I had a freeby for ya!  Dang it!  Oh well, keep looking, they are out there. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I boxed mine to half way under the cab, just used a ball peen hammer and cardboard to make a template and had it laser cut out of 3/16 plate. then I welded the remaining riveted joints. 

very cheap to do now that so many shops have plasma and laser tables, and I really believe it went a long way to stiffening the truck 

post-6464-13585363450952.jpg

Edited by albolton
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Public Service Announcement: If you would like your kids to learn colorful new language and the art of throwing tools, invite them to the garage while setting adjustable pushrods! 

I will be very surprised if I didnt screw this part up lol!

 

IMG_2207.JPG

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4th-thru 5th. try will seem easier ??.  :huh:

 

Sorry not trying to have fun at your beautiful engine expense! Love it! It will be worth it in the end!  :D

Best to you, you Will get it done.

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
duh!
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  • 2 weeks later...

Making more progress! Next is to see what kind of adapter ring I need to make to mate the R10 up to the V8 bellhousing (WC T5 Doesn’t have an option of a 9” input shaft). Clean up the engine bay and then drop in the hemi and see how everything will mount up.

 

IMG_2268.JPG

IMG_2269.JPG

Edited by 59bisquik
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On 1/6/2018 at 4:33 PM, 59bisquik said:

Public Service Announcement: If you would like your kids to learn colorful new language and the art of throwing tools, invite them to the garage while setting adjustable pushrods! 

I will be very surprised if I didnt screw this part up lol!

 

IMG_2207.JPG

 

Not to over-simplfy but, it is simply 1-2/3 turns past point of contact.  A small drop of paint on the hex portions will give a visual as you turn.

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She is in the hole, but something isnt right. I found that the rear crossmember needed to be moved up to a different set of bolt holes. The L6 location was too far back and the heads hit the firewall. Now it seems that I dont have the correct front mount. I could always build a set of side mounts, but wanted to look as stock as possible.

 

IMG_2277.JPG

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I have three mounts, the L6, a car mount and a 1 1/2 or 2 ton mount I am guessing. The motor came out of a heavy truck originally.

 

First thing first, I need to get the engine further forward to clear the shifter. I looked at photos on the net and there is a good amount of clearance which I currently do not have.

 

I moved it forward enough to clear the shifter but had to make extensions for my rear mounts. I think side mounts will be the easiest and will be hidden due to the size of the hemi heads. Now just to figure out what the rear crossmember actually looks like.

 I did find a pic of one on the net that shows the valve covers clearing the shifter, so I must be in the ball park.

IMG_2279.JPG

$_1.jpg

Edited by 59bisquik
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I vote that Wildcat might have it because of the number of early trucks.....but Big M has more Hemi's, but from cars.

 

My question would be, how different are the car frames from the truck frames in 1954 on up....? 

 

48D

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9 hours ago, 48Dodger said:

I vote that Wildcat might have it because of the number of early trucks.....but Big M has more Hemi's, but from cars.

 

My question would be, how different are the car frames from the truck frames in 1954 on up....? 

 

48D

...cars used the side mounts.

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11 minutes ago, wayfarer said:

...cars used the side mounts.

I think it depends on the year. I have a 270 that came out of a car that does not have side mount provisions and came with a front mount. The 56 325 block came with a front mount, but also has side mount provisions on the block.

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