Darbone85737 Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 I backed my car out of the garage to reposition it. Everything was fine but when I put it in first to move forward the clutch pedal suddenly lost spring tension and the pedal went straight to the floor and would not return I pulled the pedal back up by hand but if I press it down it goes right back to the floor and will not return I know there is an adjustment on the return spring but I'm not quite sure how it works. The adjuster seems to be at the end of the threaded rod. Does it get tightened or loosened to increase spring tension on the pedal return ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 You did not mention what car you have so I assume you have a 49 Plymouth by your photo. If the 49 Plymouth is setup the same as the 46-48 models you have 2 springs associated with your clutch linkage. First is the over center spring that serves 2 functions. Gives spring assistance both pushing the pedal to the floor and returning the pedal to the released position. Second spring is a return spring that holds the pedal up in the released position. Suggest you inspect the clutch linkage under the car to insure both of these springs are in place. Also inspect all clutch pedal pivot points as I suspect your problem is more than a missing spring. Check your service manual for the specifics of the clutch linkage and the adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbone85737 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks. Yes it's a1949 P18. I don't have the manual here right now so I thought I'd ask for assistance/advice. I believe the overcenter spring is the heavy spring with the adjustment on a threaded rod. I'm not certain if tightening the adjuster will add return pressure to the pedal or decrease it. The adjustment is almost at the end of the rod. The only other spring I see is attached to the lever that goes through the bell housing that actuates the throw out bearing. The clutch and bearing were both replaced when the engine was out for a rebuild. All the pivot points in the linkage are intact and greased. The linkage moves freely- it just will not return the pedal. This happened suddenly and thankfully in the garage.. edit: Found and checked the manual. The adjustment to resolve slow pedal return is to back off the sleeve nut on the spring eye bolt. Mine is already at the end of the bolt so there really isn't any backing left. All the external linkage parts seem intact and moving properly, but the pedal just goes to the floor and stays there Edited July 25, 2015 by Darbone85737 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbone85737 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Turns out I believe the clutch linkage for the car has been "modified" by previous owners over the years. Specifically the rod that pushes the release lever in the bell housing. Does anyone have a picture or illustration of what it is supposed to look like, or better yet an extra part they might be willing to sell ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 This is what it looks like on a P-15. Yours may be different. And I have one. PM me if interested. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfy Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Wow nice info there, talk about service! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbone85737 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Don is a man among men !!! I'll post a picture of what was in there when I get the replacement installed.. I guess this stuff is bound to happen when a car is 65 years old and has been through god-knows-how-many previous owners, some of them in Texas . For some reason the parts book for the P17 and P18 cars doesn't have a diagram like the book Don has for the P15. Edited July 28, 2015 by Darbone85737 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conroe Powdercoating Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Wow nice info there, talk about service! I know thats right! he IS the answer man, exploded diagrams and pictures to back it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 here is a diagram from 1950 Ply. parts book, they are the same for 49 as far as I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 My neck is too stiff to read sideways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 I was just working on rotating the scanned pic to save your neck Don! Try #2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 reading this thread I see Don offered to help with an item he had on hand..did you get back with him to se if it was what you wanted? I see the thread has not mentioned if the problem has been resolved.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbone85737 Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) Thanks- Yes, Don was a huge help and gave me a new push rod for the clutch linkage. It is different than the one that was in my car. Seems they changed the linkage from the P15 to the P18. The new and old styles are shown in the diagram. The rod part 6-24-1 kept the same part number but changed as indicated in the diagram. The earlier rod was shorter than the P18 part. I solved my problem by cutting threads on the rod end so it would screw into the adjuster of the old style rod. That added a little length to it and made it fit better. I have good clutch action now and plenty of room for adjustment as the clutch wears. I'm still not full sure why the problem occurred. Everything else looks normal according to the diagram At any rate my thanks to Don once again. I hope to be in a position to pay his generosity forward whenever I am able After fixing this issue I went to drive the car and had an awful grinding noise coming from the front end. Turned out a brake shoe return spring had snapped. I was lucky in that someone had obviously taken the wheel drums apart and the drums came off without needing a puller. New springs are on the way. Seems it's always something Edited August 4, 2015 by Darbone85737 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 good to hear..this had the markings for a happy ending.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultrahawg Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 sorry for coming into this so late but, I've just ran into this same issue with a new clutch install..two questions..is there another or correct part that needs to be changed in order to get the clutch pedal back to the top? and if not approx what length did you add to the part Rod 6-24-1 ? my mechanic in not into cutting and making parts and he's on the search for the correct ones..I'm looking for and answer too..thanks in advance, newbie here, first post..Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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