Kaos Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I've decided before I go any further I am going to rewire the car, convert it to 12v and change the fuel pump. I have been confused as where to start on the car rather it was breaks, or starting or what ever else I find that is just scary and old. I think the first thing I should do is keep the car from burning to the ground is rewire it and convert so I can use LED lights and accessory's, turn the engine a little faster and not feel like I am dealing with alien technology by getting back in my comfort zone of having it negatively grounded.. That and there are several after market switches that I have no idea what they do and I'm sure there is a slow drain from the battery. Does any one have an intuitive wiring diagram that I could get a copy of? Again my service manual still isn't here but I also feel that someone here has tackled this before so I thought I would ask instead of reinventing the wheel things like what gage wires to use to what devices, and a good way to ensure I have a good way to keep the battery from having drains when off and if a fuse box should be added. In the past I asked you guys for hidden got ya's and those questions paid off big so I will ask again any hidden tricks? I think I am going to buy a 12v conversion kit, I know I can buy these pieces separate and save some $ but I like being able to hold someone accountable for the entire kit and not have finger pointing. I haven't measured it but thought I could save a second or 2 by asking what size pulley should I get on the alternator and do you guys know a great place to get this kit? Thank you guys for all your help I would be lost with out you guys. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) you can use the search engine here but be sure you are top of forum for your search..(don't search your own thread basically is what I am saying)here is what you are looking for...search was just a couple seconds...finding the picture was a bit longer scanning threads...odds are it is archived here on the forum somewhere... Edited July 2, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) This is the kit I was looking at for the 12v Conversion. See any issues with it? Should I take the 100 AMP bracket or do I need that? http://www.vintageautogarage.com/1935-55-Dodge-Plymouth-6V-to-12V-Convertion-kit-p/dp4655-k.htm Edited July 2, 2015 by Kaos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 The forum search function can be your best friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 This is the kit I was looking at for the 12v Conversion. See any issues with it? http://www.vintageautogarage.com/1935-55-Dodge-Plymouth-6V-to-12V-Convertion-kit-p/dp4655-k.htm I did my 12 volt upgrade for about fifty bucks in parts. But I was accountable only to myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) IF you are looking at a kit...more than not the direction will be written for RODDING where the user is upgrading to a later model column or aftermarket like IDIDIT etc....you will need to follow the instruction there as well as follow along with the original..only deviation will be what you have upgraded or added....and for the money...I am thinking you over the top in price on that kit...but that is just my personal experience with wiring kits... Edited July 2, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) Work on/check out old cars in this order.... Start (Validates engine/associated sysems) Run (Validates trans/differential/suspension issues and exercises items above under varying loads) Stop (Validates brakes/tires) From there....Fix or mod in the same order. Last is Cosmetics. Dead Last. Edited July 2, 2015 by Sharps40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 you can make any car and STOP..that is just normal Wrenching 101... run but is it worth it if the cosmetics is over a above the top for practical repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) ????? You lost me. Thought OP didn't know where to begin as indicated in the first line of his/her original post. Normal for you probably ain't for others. Edited July 2, 2015 by Sharps40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48mirage Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Your service manual when it arrives should have your wiring diagram with wire sizes and colors. If you use the original sizes you will have plenty of safety margin for the 12 volt conversion. Pulley size for an alternator? You want a small one that will fit the width of belt you are using. Here is a seller I have used before and some of his options. There are other sellers out there so there is no endorsement of anyone. You will want to use a smaller diameter than stock for the pulley. Some of these systems the alternator doesn't start making until up to a certain rpm. With our slow idling flatheads you will want the alternator to spin up sooner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 I just checked my D24 schematic and no gauge..so instead I sent the man in PM the copy of a P17/P18 schematic as the guage and wire color is definitely there... also in areas of adding accessories and such...you can use the AWG charts found on the internet for applied voltage of your choice for max run each gauge will carry x amperage..simple t find chart on the net....very useful... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankturner Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 I just went through this same thing. I was looking at that same kit, but the price tag made the think otherwise. Most old timers will tell you that with hard work you can save a few bucks, and they are right. I bought the alternator bracket from those guys. You will want to paint it because it comes unfinished and looks like itll rust immediately.The runtz style voltage reducer (two of them) from speedwaymotors.com ( a month after doing the initial conversion because I thought I could get away with using a ballast resistor from a coil, I was wrong).I bought the gm standard alternator (same as for a 77 chevy pickup with internal regulator) from my local parts store for about $50-60 bucks.I bought a smaller 6 circuit fuse block from the parts store for about $12 to bypass my factory old circuit breaker and I disconnected the ammeter.the coil and condensor i bought from the parts store, they were dirt cheap. and while I was at it I got some cut to length spark plug wires and plugs too cause the car needed them.new 12v battery $100 (not included in that kit you showed).I used some new 4gauge wire for the battery, and some 14 gauge wire, a few relays, and a 12v blinker can from the parts store.Ordered a new turn signal switch because my original was missing.new 12v headlights, dash lights, taillights, and liscense plate light. These were cheap and the very very common lights found in the parts store.I think that covers most everything I had to buy to convert.All in all, with the $100 battery, I probably spent the same as the kit you showed by piecing it together and spending more of my own time. just a note, I ended up buying more parts than came with the kit but I was able to get more for my money by doing dilligence in my research and doing the work myself in my spare time over the weekends.If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them. I don't check here too often but will try to check back.FrankTurnerIV@Gmail.com if you need immediate answers those messages go straight to my phone. But wouldn't help a future guy doing a search function. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Thank you for all of your replies. I understand that getting the car mechanically sound is the first step and after a lot of thought I have decide to gut the engine compartment, paint compartment, engine and replace anything that is broken or will not clean up. As for wiring the wiring is all dry rotted with half missing sheaths and colors no longer there. I know there is a short somewhere not to mention all the aftermarket switches that I have no clue what they do so my thought is go ahead gut that and rewire using the correct colors and gauge and while in that deep do the conversion to disc brakes as well as replace all lines for the braking system and 12v conversion. Basically I will have the car tore down to have access to it all and slowly put it back together so I will know ever inch of my car just as I'm sure most of you do on your car. This car is to not only a project for me and my son to more mechanically inclined but its also to stop my need for instant gratification so I don't have a half done car all the time. I understand I have annoyed some of you with questions that are easily searchable and thus my instant gratification issue. I have decided to tear it down to ensure I slow my roll and do this right so if I do ask a question here it should be more appropriate and to the point instead of my random bouncing all over the place. I have been like a kid with a new toy and you guys have been parenting me into seeing that I need to rely more on me and not someone else. If I didn't want to do this myself I should just hire someone instead of taking up your time to reply to a question that I can easily find by putting in some time. Thank you for taking the time to reply and I will be sure to be more respectful of your time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Haymond Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 I sure enjoyed working on the small sub projects on my Plymouth. I was able to clean and repair things to my own standards, and see progress as I finished each job. Part of the fun was learning how these old Mopar engine/brakes/wiring worked, and I pretty much learned just about every nut and bolt about my baby. ..... And take lots of detail photos as you take things apart, it will help with reassembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharps40 Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Thank you for all of your replies. I understand that getting the car mechanically sound is the first step and after a lot of thought I have decide to gut the engine compartment, paint compartment, engine and replace anything that is broken or will not clean up. As for wiring the wiring is all dry rotted with half missing sheaths and colors no longer there. I know there is a short somewhere not to mention all the aftermarket switches that I have no clue what they do so my thought is go ahead gut that and rewire using the correct colors and gauge and while in that deep do the conversion to disc brakes as well as replace all lines for the braking system and 12v conversion. Basically I will have the car tore down to have access to it all and slowly put it back together so I will know ever inch of my car just as I'm sure most of you do on your car. This car is to not only a project for me and my son to more mechanically inclined but its also to stop my need for instant gratification so I don't have a half done car all the time. I understand I have annoyed some of you with questions that are easily searchable and thus my instant gratification issue. I have decided to tear it down to ensure I slow my roll and do this right so if I do ask a question here it should be more appropriate and to the point instead of my random bouncing all over the place. I have been like a kid with a new toy and you guys have been parenting me into seeing that I need to rely more on me and not someone else. If I didn't want to do this myself I should just hire someone instead of taking up your time to reply to a question that I can easily find by putting in some time. Thank you for taking the time to reply and I will be sure to be more respectful of your time. Good deal to make a plan and start in on it. Way too many good cars get torn down in a rush to make them fit a dream and 18 months later wind up being a pile of parts on craigslist. Having a plan for soup to nuts go's a long way toward ensuring your car is done well and right and as a Father/Son project, that's just killer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhoads Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 I would suggest these folks. They had kits on e-bay but I didn't see any on a search today but I am sure they could put one together for you. My kit was absolutely complete for a 6 to 12 V conversion on my 49 Special Deluxe. Very well documented, nice people to talk too, very helpful and very nice kit. This is a Facebook link to them, but if you do call ask for Jeff.https://www.facebook.com/pages/Certified-Auto-Electric-Inc/180475171997300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 (edited) I am just about ready to start the rewiring process. I would like some suggestions what to use to wrap the wire in to make it look more original I was thinking the mesh wire loom but wasn't sure what it looked like in its original state. The current wiring is wrapped in electrical tape and I know that's not factory. Thanks. Edited July 10, 2015 by Kaos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 (edited) The factory wrapping was like electrical tape. It was wrapped tight, with a half hitch at each end. Where the wires were concealed, they were wrapped together intermittently. Splices were soldered and wrapped with tape. (The red wire was not original..) Edited July 10, 2015 by DonaldSmith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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