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'70 Roadrunner A-833 behind Flathead six


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I'm new here, or it's been a long time since I've been. Howdy!

I have a typical for me weird combo of parts--1947 Dodge WFAX two-ton cab with '36-38 Dodge short pickup bed, 1950 or so Plymouth flathead 6 (rebuilt, I know the machine shop people who did it) 1950 pickup bellhousing (I think), truck clutch, flywheel all on a heavily-modified 1950 Dodge pickup frame (used 1940 panel front crossmember).

I've searched and read the A-833 threads here. Very interesting. I would prefer the OD but I have what I have.

Quick measurements show that it's not so hard to convert A-833. Converting things diesn't bother me, obviously,

Any new things I should be aware of. The threads here are a few years old, I think.

I DO also have a 1948 Dodge PU four speed. Puts the shifter pretty far forward, though.

Any thoughts?

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first off the Roadrunner 833 did not come with OD gears..that was specific to the Miser package cars..quite a few variations of the 833 goes into the OD setup...aluminum case for one...3rd is 4th and 4th is third and the selector lever is flipped for this...not sure if you can adapt the cast iron 833..but then I have not researched this..the shifter I understand is also a different mounting if I recall..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I'm not aware of anything new regarding conversion of a an A-833. The old info is still viable. Iwould think the PU 4 speed would bolt to the bell housing if it's a 4 speed bell. It's my understanding the 3 speed bell is different. As far as placement of the shifter on the 4 speed, I'd think it would end up in the same place the factory had it.

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Thank you Dave and Plymouthy.

It appears that the A-833 just needs the input shaft shortened a bit and a different, fine spline clutch disc?

Then, some new mounting holes drilled and tapped after a centering ring for the A-833 is made up??

I don't have a shifter, yet.

The four speed from the '48 puts the shifter tower in the lower portion of the toe board, that's pretty far forward.

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Here is the easiest alternative. NP whatever it is. Shifer is as far forward as it can be. Kinda sucky for my application.

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I'm a 58 year old ASE Master Tech (so what, you're thinking). I own my own automotive repair shop in Dinuba, CA. (Again, so what). In 1975, when I was 18, I owned a 1938 Plymouth PU. That's how I got started on vintage Mopar stuff.

Yes, I know that NP means New Process. I just don't know what NP number it is. Not off hand.

I build all kinds of stuff. The truck pictured is my 1941 Dodge PU with a IHC KB pu bed bolted to a Mazda B2200 chassis. If not your cup of tea you have to at least say I can plan, measure, cut and build.

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That Mazda B2200 chassis (Ford Ranger) looks to be a much better fit than the S10 chassis many use. There is a T5 swap from an S10 that many people have done. It may get you closer to your desired shifter location. Several examples are on this forum with a little investment in search time.

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I've built about five of these Japanese based conversions. The Japanese stuff is wonderful to work with overall. I have two S-10 frames and a Ranger frame ready to go when the time arises.

So far: 1938 IHC on 2000 Frontier

1941 Dodge on 1987 Maxda

1939 GMC on 1988 Nissan Hardbody --a toughie to do

1937 IHC "Acme Beer Truck" on 1995 Toyota Tacoma

1946 IHC Kb-1 with stock frame with 1991 Toyota 4wd.

Can I post non-Mopar pictures here?

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Can I post non-Mopar pictures here?

 

guess you can post anything...just not sure of the reception they might get...not being smart in any manner but if not all mopar I tend not to bother....I love upgrades..just love keeping true to the bloodline more..am but one man...this is just my take/opinion.  In all honesty..they should be under the OT heading...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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One of the important factors when swapping transmissions is to insure that the input shaft spline is in 'proper' contact with the disc. If the pilot is too long, and you can maintain spline engagement, then a plate between trans and bell is appropriate and allows for registration between trans and bell as well as for bolt placement...but you already knew that.....

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Plymouthy, I agree on keeping Dodge in Dodge. I would prefer that I think.

I just get into the "how do I want it to drive" and reliability/ safety questions VS money spent questions QUICK.

The 1941 Dodge on Mazda was about three month's more or less work. This is after and around other jobs. I had about a thousand dollars in the project before tires, glass, etc. I'm no fabricating genius. I just WANTED it badly.

I drove the truck to the Mopar thing in the San Fernando valley (CA) when I was done. It gets amazing gas mileage and has an automatic trans.

Yes, it's all Mazda underneath.

THREE months part-time work turnkey. $1000. It's a no-brainer. Nothing cobbed on (like Mustang II IFS). It runs and performs as an integated package because that's what it is :1987 Mazda B2200 pu.

Say "yuck" if you want. It drives (drove) wonderfully. I sold it to help start my repair business.

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many folks build with the very  'things' they happen to have on hand or ready access to for low cost...some are right here..but over all I think the great majority of our membership do not build with any intention to flip or sale..the majority of my cars are modified with emphasis on modern drive trains and creature comforts for driving..all based on safety as prime focus point..man rolls up to my place this last week...nice looking early Hudson with the typical 350 install, glob job clip...I never even looked at the inside of the car nor lift the hood...just not interested in this type build...too much 60's on a 40's car and with that high pitch rattling sounding small block...make me want to place a Mr. Yuck emblem on the thing....

 

Mr_Yuck_Sticker.jpg

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I'm old enough to remember BEFORE Mr. Yuck. Good ol' skull and crossbones!

We were told that kids were ingesting bottles of this stuff (poison) because of the "pirate" logo. Sheesh, that's stupid!

Mr. Yuck is MUCH less manly than the Jolly Roger.

Hilarious!

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Howdy, 4msfamly!

I built it before I owned either a cell phone or an ipad. If I have pics, I don't know where they would be.

It's built on the CA version of a 1987 Mazda B2200 chassis. Carbureted, automatic, " check engine light" in dash.

I used as much of the Mazda stuff as possible, I'm cheap.

The Mazda engine and trans were slid back about 5-8" in order for the engine to fit in the Dodge bay better. I therefore cut the driveshaft and exhaust pipe the same amount.

I had to put a Gates Timing Belt Kit on it, including water pump BEFORE I slid the Dodge front end on.

I used the Mazda cab mounts for the Dodge--it looks like a stock install!

Mazda fuel tank protrudes into bottom of Dodge cab--had to make a cut out in the cab. This model Mazda has the fuel pump in the tank. Kinda stuck using it.

I used an IHC KB pickup bed with later Dodge pu fenders.

Not necessary but I married the Mazda firewall and floor to the Dodge cab. I needed the floor to match the Mazda trans--firewall has places for pedal hangers, etc.

I used Mazda column, of course. You have to build an extension for the steering column to meet the Mazda power steering box.

I was in the middle of modifying the Mazda wiper system for above windshield when I sold it.

Any other questions, please ask!

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A-833s from the golden age of muscle cars are going for big money. I can't believe how much they want for a coarse-spline A-833 out of an old Mopar.

Yes, it will get sold, no doubt.

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Found these pictures of my '41 Dodge PU on the wall--these are from an earlier date, obviously...sorry about the poor picture quality.

The tailgate is made from scrap. It works very well.

BTW, wiring one of these conversions is easy--you just snap all the connectors back together!

You may have to shorten or lengthen a few, not many.

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