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What to do?


skylarker

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Hey guys, I have a question and it's eating me up from the inside.

I recently purchased a Dodge 230 engine, looking to install in a 52' Plymouth that has a broken heart and in need of attention.

Looking for a way to get this done quickly, without a full rebuild and working on a budget that's on the limited side.

I bought the engine off a guy on the H.A.M.B. Reasonably priced and advertised as a "Good running engine" looking to clean it up and put in new gaskets, paint, tune up and install there after.

Well that's not the case now. After getting it home and starting on it,I found out I just bought an expensive paperweight. Here is what I found.

First: engine wad stuck, but after some persistence I got it to spin 3/4 of a turn.

Second:Manifolds needed encouragement to come off, rusted bolts(expected), but did not expect the exhaust manifold to break into pieces.

I've called the guy I bought this from for 4 days now, and no luck getting a phone call returned. I have left 2 messages first one was with the first call, and the second message was yesterday on the last call. Now I have been patient(I think), and respectful but yet firm with my tone.

Am I out of line?

Thank you in advance for the advice.

Armando

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The manifold form the original Plymouth engine should fit the Dodge if the cylinder head length is 23".   I'd oil everything real well (everyone has their own recipe...many use half-and-half automatic transmission fluid and acetone) especially the valves and cylinders and see if you can get the motor to turn over smoothly and completely.   If this works, you can probably get the engine to run.  Dealing with the seller is another story.  You may have to chalk this one up to getting skunked by a dirt-bag.

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Caveat Emptor......Let the buyer beware. Sounds like the seller could care less as he has your money and doesn't care about anything else. Take the advice given above and try to make lemonade out of a lemon. Good luck with your project by-the-way!

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pretty sure you can probably use most of the 53 motor parts on the 230... if it's the 23" block, as said before. i hope you didn't pay too much. what's wrong with the one that's in the 53 though? it sounds like the 230 needs some TLC. i've bee told by a lot of people here in this group, that seem to really know their stuff, that these motors are simple and easy to maintain. i've taken most of the advice i've recieved here.

as far the HAMB guy goes... yeah if he's not answering it might be worth mentioning in the group.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I'll give this guy till Monday to respond, after that it's with both barrels

that I'll be using. I'll call him out on the H.A.MB. Well I do have the other engine (218). Just wondering how all that would work.

I know I can use the head intake and exhaust manifolds, and all other exterior components except for the

starter, that has to match the flywheel ring gear.

I have Marvel Miracle and have been putting in the cylinders and letting it soak through.

What I'm really trying to stay away from is pulling apart the crank and valve train. Is there anything else

I should be looking for?

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Since you can turn the engine through most of a revolution, I'd think you have a stuck valve jamming things up.  If you remove the cylinder head and pour penetrating oil into each valve seat it should help free-up the valves.  Giving each valve a gentle 'bop' or two from a rubber or wooden mallet can't hurt either. 

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Progress......

Today I got the engine to turn by hand 360° and keep turning, only one problem the

Suspect valve doesn't go back down on its own. I have to "bop" it down every time, e

Even that after taking a closer look at the engine it looks tired and worn out.

Maintenance on it looks like it was non existent all full of burnt oil and real bad sludge

cylinders look like they need some love.

But on the other hand I did receive an email responses from the seller asking me if I used

any penetrting oil before i took anything apart and that his phonewas "buggered" and will

call me this afternoon after he fixes his phone, we'll see what time he calls.

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 . . . advertised as a "Good running engine" . . ....I did receive an email responses from the seller asking me if I used
any penetrting oil before i took anything apart....

 

Well "good running engines" don't need penetrating oil to turn 360 by hand!

 

But I don't know what you paid. If you paid $1500 I'd be pi$$ed. If only $100, then not so much.

So hard to say if you're out of line without info.

Edited by Ulu
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I paid only $400 for a complete running 230 with trans, but that was about 20 years ago, and the engine and trans worked but were far from perfect.

 

So, nowadays $350 might buy you a running engine, but perhaps with serious issues (bad block, cracks, etc) or a good rebuildable core, but I would't expect to get one that didn't need lots of work for that money.

 

That being said, if the ad clearly said "a good running engine" I'd have expected to hear it run, or get some kind of guarantee from the seller.

 

If he wrote, "it was a good running engine" and that it had "been stored 10 years" then I would expect it to need a rebuild from just getting rusty sitting.

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