ggdad1951 Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 So, since this summer is not going as I had planned, the TODD cab is starting to get some spots of rust on it (especially where it was handled with bare hands) and I want to protect it as best I can as I doubt I'll be anywhere near ready for paint/primer anytime soon. I've been told to use PPG DX 520 followed by DX 579, how does this differ from the metal prep things from POR15? I've got more than enough of that left over from FEF, are they basically the same? OR is there something else I should be doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffsunzeri Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 You got yourself in a pickle. PPG DX520/579 is a metal etch, and would go on before POR15. Best thing to do is to get an epoxy primer, compatible with your planned top-coats on as soon as possible. PPG DX520/579 is problematic, especially for the DIY'er. Do not use a metal etch product under epoxy primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 is this the POR15 metal prep you have? i know your a smarter guy than myself but i had issues this product LOL "Rinse with water"!@#$%^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 They all said wash with water.... As for the pickle just wondering if the POR15 "metal prep" and "metal ready" are the same as the PPG stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52b3b Joe Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 I would use PPG DP epoxy primer. Two of my friends have had problems with the POR products peeling off. I use PPG on all my stuff, and I have had no issues. Lightly sandblast the rust areas again to get what has started rusting out before using anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 I used 5 or 6 quarts of Southern Polyurethane's epoxy primer. Significantly cheaper than PPG and has a good reputation pretty much everywhere and the site does have a user forum/tech line. Can't use any sort of acid under epoxy unless you know exactly what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Self etching is only for bare metal when your going to paint within 10-15 minutes after, I thought it was for use any time, but my hot rod builder told me its best suited to brand new metal that's just ready to spray with no Bondo or filler primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Not sure which brand but my shop used zinc chromate on my bare metal then an epoxy primer no problems years later. Parts sat like this for a while before they were primed and painted...no problems to date Good Luck, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Self etching primers are old school.....concentrate on the epoxy primers. Metal prep is a conditioner you can use to rub down bare metal with right before you shoot it with epoxy. Nothing to heavy. Most flash rust can be scuffed with a red scotchbrite then rubbed with the metal prep. If you're cheap, you can use diluted Vineger (4 parts water:1 part Vin) and rub it down with that. Some Primers don't like self etching primers beause of the acid, so read the tech sheet, it'll tell you. But Mark's problem is protecting the bare metal when painting isn't an option.... DO NOT USE WAX: Once you do that, you can't go back to true clean metal and then paint DO NOT USE WD40: same thing, its a no return option. The only thing I can reccomend is Gibbs Brand Penetrant Its a good option, and you can get it painted later. 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 was talking to a body guy last night at the watering hole, he said to use "wash primer" and to just get a light blast later anyway due to all the welding I have to do yet anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 11, 2015 Report Share Posted June 11, 2015 Save your POR 15 for the frame. If it's been opened, you might want to take a look at it. Once opened it likes to set up and cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted June 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Save your POR 15 for the frame. If it's been opened, you might want to take a look at it. Once opened it likes to set up and cure. All I have left is in the fridge...last I looked still good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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