fudds54 Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 What weight oil and brand is the best for the flat 6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 There have been numerous and extended threads regarding suitable oils. The answers are all over the place. Try the search function. After wading through all the discussins and cussins, find an oil the gives you a good comfort factor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 I'm in southwest Florida at the equater line so we have hot temps for 5 months in the 90's then the temps ease up some to 70-80s. My car stays between 160-170 for the most part and I'm using 10W/30 non syn Pennzoil. My gauges are new and I think trustworthy. I do change oil and filter every 3,500 miles if I'm going on distance rides frequently, probably 2,800--3k. 20W/50 I think would work well in the summer here also. Doc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 I think it is time for a new forum to discuss what oil to use. That seems to be the question that every new forum member asks first. Must be over 100 threads asking the same question and getting the same answers. As Yogi Berra said.... It's like deja-vu, all over again. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 no Don..it is just time that folks start doing a bit of reading of talking papers based on the subject and get totally away from the multi faceted opinions expressed by every user of every brand on every forum..many are hand me downs from their dad/granddads .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 no Don..it is just time that folks start doing a bit of reading of talking papers based on the subject and get totally away from the multi faceted opinions expressed by every user of every brand on every forum..many are hand me downs from their dad/granddads .. Tim, if you are suggesting folks do some research before asking a question you know as well as I that it will never happen. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 Question on the original old style PB1/2 metal oil filters the sticker on the filter stated that every 8000 miles to change the filter. This is wild to think that we had the old style motor oils back in the 30-40-50's that still had a lot of the wax impurities in the oil based. Now our motor oil are refined to a high quality and everyone is still in the thinking of the 2-3k mileage and they have to change the filter and oil. For my 2009 VOlvo fram oil filter has an insert cartridge that they say can be used and kept in the car for up to 15K and this is with full syn oil. My volvo which uses Castrol GTX 5/30 goes 7500 miles before and oil and filter change. So why are we still changing our oil and filter at 3K. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 If all we ever did was a search...then there would be no more forum. I run whatever is on sale. I stay away from synthetics, but gobble up any older, higher in zinc oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffsunzeri Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) Yes, it's been done to death. But, quite frankly most of the answers given regarding 'what oil to use' are not so good. There are objective facts to be considered, and what the heck does it mean to say 'use what makes you feel good'? Hopefully folks are not drinking the oil or sitting on it to make themselves 'comfortable'. Some objective facts about the oil you use and the MoPar flathead motor: - Modern oils are better in all regards than old specification non-detergent oils. - Viscosity requirements are the same for MoPar flatheads as for all other non-turbo/super charged engines. - There is nothing in the flathead motor construction that requires a special oil or additive. It is a plain bearing engine, just like the millions of non-turbo charged engines in modern cars. - Oil doesn't eat seals. - You must monitor your oil pressure and it must be maintained within factory specs. - You must have a functioning oil pressure gauge. - You must change your oil regularly. In MoPar flathead motors without full-flow filters, 2,000 - 3,000 mile intervals is good. - An oil analysis is an objective way to measure the viscosity breakdown pattern, and overall engine health. It is the best way to determine whether your oil is doing its job and to monitor engine wear. - If you run your engine on an irregular basis, there are some things you should do with regard to oil changes and additives that can be used. Edited June 9, 2015 by jeffsunzeri 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 To me it makes a lot of sense to say use what ever oil makes you feel good because the engine does not care but the owner does. It makes me feel good to buy the least expensive oil and it makes others feel good to buy the most expensive oil. As I have said many times one can buy there dog a diamond studded food bowl. That makes the owner feel good but the dog will be just as content eating from a paper plate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tatback Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 I only just got my car but the oil I bought after doing much reading is Valvoline 10w30 conventional non-detergent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) Tatback I think a 10W30 is a detergent oil. A straight weight oil such SAE30 is non detergent. Also are you using a filter on your car if you are using 10W30? Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Edited June 9, 2015 by desoto1939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tatback Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 You may be right, I just looked for a conventional oil that didn't say it had detergents. Yes I'm using a purolator filter and I have the full flow system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffsunzeri Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 There are only 2 instances where non-detergent oils are called for: 1. 2 stroke engines pre-mixing oil with the fuel 2. Newly overhauled engines during a specified break-in period only. In the second instance, there is not 100% agreement that non-detergent 'mineral oil' is required for break-in, but some engine manufacturers still recommend it. In no case is non-detergent oil good for any MoPar engine compared to any oil meeting modern API/SAE detergent-containing specs. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tatback Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 Thank you for that, will make it easier for me at least to be able to just go and buy any 10w30. I'll only be running the oil in my car for the first 100 miles. Being new to me I just want to do a flush and recheck everything. Didn't like the look of the oil the first time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Tatback I think a 10W30 is a detergent oil. A straight weight oil such SAE30 is non detergent. Also are you using a filter on your car if you are using 10W30? Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com An oil will say whether it has detergents or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I have used Valvoline 10W-40 for a long time......it seems to hold up well and stay with the engine longer than some other brands. My cars have always used at least a bit of oil over the years. Just my two cents worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I asked Valvoline Australia about what to use in the Fargo. Their Technical Advisor says" ' We do have an oil for you, it is called Valvoline Premium Mono 30. It is a mono grade oil, contining zinc, ( great for engine protection ) and sulphated ash level of less than 1%.It is available in 1 ltr, 5 ltr packs as well as 20 litre." He must be right, because after his name he had these letters "M.I.A.M.E" (whatever that is but it looks important) Note that I am not promoting this oil, just passing on the information...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Well done GK. I might have to look at changing over from the Penrite brand oil which I use. I looked up MIAME for you mate: A condensed description of MIAME (Minimum Information about a Microarray Experiment) principles designed to help authors, reviewers and editors of scientific journals to meet MIAME requirements and to make microarray data available to the science community in a useful way. ... so that makes it all the more clearer now hey! So he could be either an author or just a useful (helpful) sales assistant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 MIAME Member of the Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers (Australia) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 MIAME Member of the Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers (Australia) Well done..you clever Yanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Are all Automotive Mechanical Engineers required to be members of the Institute and are member engineers the only ones that can certify? Do they all sign their name with all those extra letters when certify each level? Is the same engineer required for all levels of the certification? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Are all Automotive Mechanical Engineers required to be members of the Institute and are member engineers the only ones that can certify? Do they all sign their name with all those extra letters when certify each level? Is the same engineer required for all levels of the certification? In my opinion only salesmen wanting to drum up business use the extra letters as a sales ploy. Every salesman is programed to tell you he has exactly what you need weather you really need it or not. In my opinion most of the time it is a NOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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