48ply1stcar Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 My engine started really fast on April 21st. I posted the video on the 22nd and the engine has never started since, Flickr page video link https://www.flickr.c...05/17232111652/ Since April: I installed the radiator and had a leak in the front of the engine, missing bolt in timing chain back plate. Brunt out a 12 volt and 6 volt fuel pump. Purchased a manual fuel pump before my vacation in May, finally got it installed and working yesterday. Turns over slow and yesterday I bought a new battery. The reason I bought the new battery was that the car turned over so much faster with the spark plugs removed. so I thought that it was a load problem. NO CHANGE. I haven't changed the distributor or carburetor. Question: The negative battery cable and the solenoid are hot on the battery side and not on the starter side, and the engine still turns slowly. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Sounds like extra resistance at or in the solenoid. Solenoid might be able to be disassembled and the contacts cleaned or you may need to replace it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 have you done a voltage drop test to ascertain the condition of the cables and or connections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSkye48 Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) have you done a voltage drop test to ascertain the condition of the cables and or connections? doing the voltage drop basically solved my starting problems so make sure you do that as soon as you can Edited June 8, 2015 by BlueSkye48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 Used a volt meter to do load testing. Dropped to 3.9 to 4.2 at the starter so I brought my original starter to a rebuilder to be checked out. The gears would not retract so I replaced it with one with a broken flange. Is there a way to bench test a solenoid? I try a search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar_earl Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 Used a volt meter to do load testing. Dropped to 3.9 to 4.2 at the starter so I brought my original starter to a rebuilder to be checked out. The gears would not retract so I replaced it with one with a broken flange. Is there a way to bench test a solenoid? I try a search. You can do voltage drop across the solenoid and any component in the starting and charging system. Solenoids contacts burn over time and will eventually start causing voltage drop. Also the coil can burn out or get weak over time. Earl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 I never thought that the solenoid could be the issue. but why not. During this spring, I have replaced most of the electrical system and worked all around the solenoid. $20 at NAPA. While the starter is in the shop, maybe I'll finish that rewire job this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Picked up the starter, put it in and the engine was seized up. Removed radiator and was not able to turn over the engine by hand. So it went from turning over slowly to not moving at all. So maybe there is something mechanical that was creating the load and it finally lock-up. Now I'll just wait until after the the 4th of July to get a better look. Edited June 20, 2015 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 pull your plugs and rotate engine by hand, ignition off...you could be liquid locked... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Tried to turn the engine with the crank nut after I removed the radiator - I did remove plugs and put them back in. Plugs not wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Try turning it with the plugs out. That way you aren't working against engine compression as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeywolf Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 A starter can be damaged if the voltage is low which in turn increases amperes.thus Burning the starter motor. As already been said remove the spark plugs and turn over by hand it would be a good idea to remove the rocker cover and watch the inlet and exhust valve's open and close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Pulled the engine again last Saturday, getting pretty good - less than a hour by myself and that included disconnecting everything. Pulled the Timing chain cover Sunday, felt good when I realized I didn't forget the oil tube. Pulled the oil pan and head Monday - water in the oil pan. I didn't see anything obvious like big broken parts or pistons out of place. Now I wonder if I bought an engine with a cracked block. So again I'll take it down to the block try to see what is keeping the crank from turning amd may have the engine checked out by a rebuilder. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Bring it over to Adelmanns in Blaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) I guess I'm ready to see him again. The engine started so perfect before I added the radiator and water, and then NEVER started again. Edited July 15, 2015 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Removed the timing chain today, and still couldn't turn the crank with head and oil pan removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) It not even worth a comment anymore. Apparently, when I thought the problem was electrical with a load problem the engine was slowly seizing. Waiting to take it to a rebuiler. Edited July 22, 2015 by 48ply1stcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Show us the rod and main bearings... possible seizure cause? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Upside down bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Pictures of some of the bearings. Still couldn't turn the crankshaft, but I have a better feeling about the tear down and rebuild by a pro. Since I was able to put it together and get it to run once it should be easier once the short-block and head are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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