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Electric Fuel Pump


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I will be mounting a electric fuel pump as part of my 12V conversion, mostly because after I added Fenton-type cast iron headers they are extremely close to the mechanical pump and fuel lines. Anyone out there have any experience with electric fuel pumps on one of our trucks? I'm looking at one from Car Quest that pumps at 4-7 lbs. I'll be running a Stromberg two barrel on a factory manifold, 230 bored 60 over with a mild cam.  Should be OK, right?

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Consider using the E8016S pump instead. Pumps at 2.5 to 4.5 psi so less chance of overpowering the needle valve and seat.  The 4 -7 psi pump will often work well but can and sometimes does create some problems with running  the carb over.

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Hi Jim,

 

I put one on my truck because I just couldn't get vacuum after rebuilding the original. I kept the original pump on the motor but took out the rocker arm and blocked off the inlet and outlet. Eventually I'll make up a neat cover plate.

 

This is a great article on how to wire them up so the pump won't keep running in the event you can't turn off the iginition eg knocked out in an accident.

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html

 

I had trouble in Australia getting hold of one of the oil pressure switches mentioned in the article but for now whilst the truck doesn't leave the shed it's not an issue.

I bought a 2.5 to 4 PSI unit from OnlineAutoParts.com.au for $26.20 AUD. It was a Facet brand, same as the one in the article. No doubt you'll be spoilt for choice in the US.

If I run the pump and don't start the truck, it'll flood, but runs fine without flooding if I start it straight away. It's running very rich and the idle mixture screw makes no difference at the moment, but I haven't rebuilt my carby and it was sitting for 30 years before I got it.

I'm hoping a strip down, rebuild and proper tuning will sort the running rich issue.

 

Regards, Martyn

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Jim;

I am running a Carter vane type pump which I mounted near the tank. I mounted an adjustable pressure regulator with gauge on the passenger side inner fender. This is set at 3.5#. I have a large sealed canister type fuel filter between the tank and the pump and another between the regulator and the carb. I have the original fuel pump mount blanked off. This set up has worked really well and insures a cool & clean fuel supply.

 

Jeff

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. . . This is a great article on how to wire them up so the pump won't keep running in the event you can't turn off the iginition eg knocked out in an accident.

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html

 

. . .

Interesting that the article calls for using 10 gauge wire to supply the pump on what I assume is a 12v system. If I am reading the wire gauge table correctly, on a 6v system for the same voltage drop you'd need a 6 gauge cable. That is pretty big, larger by far that the wires for my headlights.

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Interesting that the article calls for using 10 gauge wire to supply the pump on what I assume is a 12v system. If I am reading the wire gauge table correctly, on a 6v system for the same voltage drop you'd need a 6 gauge cable. That is pretty big, larger by far that the wires for my headlights.

Yes.....not sure what they based that on? My 6 volt is working fine on #14 wire.

 

Martyn;

Glad it is of some help. I ran without the regulator for a little while but decided to do it up right. It has worked fine this way.

 

Jeff

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I'm running an older Facet electric pump that came with the truck. Kind of noisy until it has fuel but works well and wont flood the carbs. I did order the same Airtex e8016s pump mentioned above as it has good reviews and an excellent warranty. If my current pump quits I will be installing the Airtex.

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