ledfootslim Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 I do as the transmission solonoid is entergized. Go to this thread and look at testing the soloniod with photos and test yous out of the car. It would be a goos rime to clean it up too. http://p15-d24.com/topic/34065-fluid-drive-not-downshifting-what-to-check/ Well, I read through it several times and it seems like if mine is shifting as it is into second that is all working fine. So maybe I have some other problem? And I didn;t understand quite a bit of it, about "the separating fluke" and a few other things...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 And another thing, my carburetor has two of the connectors for wires and in my manual it only shows wiring going to one. I have the other one grounded and I am getting the 1-2 gear shift, so I guess that is working. But is something else supposed to go to the other one? I am very confused. This is not my carburetor, just an identical model I found a picture of. I have the wire from the relay going to the right side and the left side grounded. Anybody have one they can look at and tell me if it supposed to be different? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 (edited) There were both single and dual wires on the M-5 carb anti-stall solenids in 1948. They both work either way as long as wired correctly which I think you do.. As mentioned you should hear a definate heavy click when the key is turned on..Inner fender( trans relay and trans solenoid click). A fuse is located in the trans relay. Edited May 24, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Spyder Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Test the solenoid and make sure it works first. Then make sure that your wires are in good shape and not grounding out. All of them, transmission and carb wires. Then make sure they are getting proper voltage. Report back and we can go to the next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Test the solenoid and make sure it works first. Then make sure that your wires are in good shape and not grounding out. All of them, transmission and carb wires. Then make sure they are getting proper voltage. Report back and we can go to the next step. Ok, I'll see about pulling and testing it. Now I'm just not sure if I even want to keep the semi-auto. I went to get some gas, set the brake, was out pumping and felt her start rolling on her own. After so many hours of work on that parking brake it still won't reliably hold this huge of a car. And I just don't like trusting my thousands of dollars and hours of investments to a little band of cork to keep from rolling off and totaling myself and possibly someone else. Now I kinda want to just install a three-speed and get rid of this tiresome, piece of junk, tip-toe shift. I think the peace of mind of just being able to park, stick it in gear and walk off would be worth it. And being able to just drive it after a year of dead-ends and doing the same thing over and over and over would be great.......The fluid-drive coupling doesn't make the standard transmission lose its hold after the engine is off, does it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 If you know how and what to do on these semi automatic transmissions ( M-5 M-6) they work just fine as do the E-brakes. It takes a lot of time to understand how they operate let alone do the repairs properly. Took me 10 years to get them all figured out. You might just have to throw the FD and M-5 in the junk pile and go with that trusty old 3 speed. But the E-brake is just the same as the M-5 trans E-brake. You have to keep at it reading the shop manual. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 If you know how and what to do on these semi automatic transmissions ( M-5 M-6) they work just fine as do the E-brakes. It takes a lot of time to understand how they operate let alone do the repairs properly. Took me 10 years to get them all figured out. You might just have to throw the FD and M-5 in the junk pile and go with that trusty old 3 speed. But the E-brake is just the same as the M-5 trans E-brake. You have to keep at it reading the shop manual. So will it still try to roll off with the three speed and fluid drive setup when the car is off and in gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) Yep...it will still roll away with out a good holding brake band. .... and that is if you can fit/mount a 3 speed to your "Tip-Toe" bell housing and FD coupling plus get the linkages to work right. Bob Edited May 26, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Cork parking brake band on the M5 transmission? I thought the band was regular brake material. When it's adjusted right, it works. But, the fluid coupling does not allow the engine to keep the car from rolling. Some of the guys switch rear axles, and in the process get the parking brakes on the rear wheels. Then the car won't roll if one of the back wheels is off the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Yep...it will still roll away with out a good holding brake band. .... and that is if you can fit/mount a 3 speed to your "Simplimatic" bell housing and FD coupling plus get the linkages to work right. Bob Crud, I thought it was only the M-5 that did that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Any car with a fluid drive (coupling) will roll away with out a good holding emergency brake. If you drive your DeSoto out here to the "Great Northwest" I will diagnos and fix your car for free - if needed! Bob 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) Any car with a fluid drive (coupling) will roll away with out a good holding emergency brake. If you drive your DeSoto out here to the "Great Northwest" I will diagnos and fix your car for free - if needed! Bob Haha- I appreciate it, I'd love to! Not a single person around here has any clue what I'm talking about with this thing, even the old timers. I guess I'll just have to keep pecking away on it. Edited May 24, 2015 by ledfootslim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Ok, so I have some MORE questions if anyone would be so kind as to put up with me some more I detached the relay box, and cleaned up the grounds, but I'm not quite sure how this new tester somebody gave me works. I know I should be getting six volts to the middle post on the left with the key on, but should I test this by grounding the red and putting the black to the part I am wanting to test? I know it is working from just testing the battery with it, but I'm not sure how to use it on other stuff. By grounding the red and putting the black on the starter, and the right side of the coil I am getting 6.2 volts, so I'm guessing that is the right way. However, the power from the coil to the transmission relay goes from the left side of the coil as it showed in my manual, and that is only putting out like .03. And in the first picture, the contact at the end of my thumb has two little leaf looking things, one shaped kind of like a spoon and the other one just a flat piece of metal. Should these be touching? Thanks in advance, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 And also, where would one go to get the replacement SFE-30 fuse? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 And also, where would one go to get the replacement SFE-30 fuse? Thanks! I think I saw some of those at my local O’Reilly Auto Parts recently. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I think I saw some of those at my local O’Reilly Auto Parts recently. I ran in there this morning and all they had were the long slim ones I already had. It looks like the one I need would have to be much fatter and have little pins to hold it in, like a regular bulb.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I ran in there this morning and all they had were the long slim ones I already had. It looks like the one I need would have to be much fatter and have little pins to hold it in, like a regular bulb.. I guess I can make one work, but it seems awfully loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 I guess I can make one work, but it seems awfully loose. You don't what to have a loose fuse , it has to make a good connection . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 You don't what to have a loose fuse , it has to make a good connection . Thats what I thought. The one I have seems too skinny, but fits ok with the little cap that screws it down in there. I am not getting power to the fuse with the key on. I am getting it to the middle post, six full volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) The M-5 Tip Toe trans relay could use two sizes (lengths) of 30 amp fuses. beacuse of a early and late type of relay. Both are 1/4" in diameter. The long fuse length is 1.4420" The shorter fuse length is 1.2280" The pics will ID the length of proper fuse and hold down cap on your relay for the proper fuse to use. This is critical on these M-5 relays to function properly. Edited May 26, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) The M-5 Tip Toe trans relay could use two sizes (lengths) of 30 amp fuses. beacuse of a early and late type of relay. Both are 1/4" in diameter. The long fuse length is 1.4420" The shorter fuse length is 1.2280" The pics will ID the length of proper fuse and hold down cap on your relay for the proper fuse to use. This is critical on these M-5 relays to function properly. Thank you! I have one of the longer ones and a fresh fuse, so I guess I am good there. Now I guess if I am getting the correct power and everything here, I shall get the governor out and try to test it. Wish me luck- anything electrical is a real challenge for me! Edited May 26, 2015 by ledfootslim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Dodgeb4ya Posted May 26, 2015 Solution Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) The points in the governer are silver. Be gentle on them and the little spring when removing contact arm.. They usually are soaked in oil and burned slightly black. Take em apart and carefully clean them up. If pitted file very slightly and carefully. Not too much as it will change up/down shift MPH. The flyweights in the governer housing push up or let down a fibre type material pin that opens and closes the contacts. If this pin has excessive wear from high mileage the trans will not shift as it should at times. I have posted some techie pics showing some info... Bob Edited May 26, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) The points in the governer are silver. Be gentle on them and the little spring when removing contact arm.. They usually are soaked in oil and burned slightly black. Take em apart and carefully clean them up. If pitted file very slightly and carefully. Not too much as it will change up/down shift MPH. The flyweights in the governer housing push up or let down a fibre type material pin that opens and closes the contacts. If this pin has excessive wear from high mileage the trans will not shift as it should at times. I have posted some techie pics showing some info... Ok, thank you so much for walking me through this, Dodgeb4ya, White spyder and everybody else, I am shifting noticeably now. I disassembled and cleaned the governor well, replaced the fuse, I still was't hearing a click when I turned the key on. I started the car, it was sounding a little weak, so I actually adjusted the idle up a little bit, got it down the canyon that is now our road (thanks flood weather!) and it shifted right at twenty when I got on the pavement. I feel like it is idling at about 475 now, or somewhere in that neighborhood. I still have a top speed of about fifty before it starts to cut out and sputter. It doesn't matter if I'm climbing a hill or going down one, forty five/fifty is the top end. So I'm guessing its time to re-build the carburetor......again. Edited May 26, 2015 by ledfootslim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Check your plug gaps, set the dwell at 38 degrees, set the timing at 3 degrees BTC. before you mess with the carb again. While you're in the dizzy, make sure you have good strong point spring. Your points may be floating at higher RPMs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted May 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Check your plug gaps, set the dwell at 38 degrees, set the timing at 3 degrees BTC. before you mess with the carb again. While you're in the dizzy, make sure you have good strong point spring. Your points may be floating at higher RPMs. Ok, all that has all been done, except dwell! Could I get an explanation of what it is and how to check and set it? I have had bad experience trying to get the right info off the web rather than from someone who knows what they are talking about. Thank you! And I will definitely go through and check it all again, just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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