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Do I have the wrong carb for my fluid drive?


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Hello all.  it's been a long time since I posted last time.  I have a 1950 B-2-B Woodie that I'm getting geared up for the summer.  It never really ran right last year but I managed.  I had a shop put a new carb on and I think it's the wrong one.  I have a fluid drive 4 speed.  It's stalling on decline and will not stay running when I slowly let the clutch out while stopped or come to a stop without putting in the clutch.  After looking over this site I'm hoping for a little guidance. 

 

The carb is a D6G1 and I don't think there is a dashpot.  Before I go crazy trying to dial this thing in I want to make sure I've even working with the right set up. 

 

I attached a picture of the set up to see if that helps. 

 

Thanks guys,

Jeremy

Portland, Or

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Edited by jdrader2
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Your carb does not have a dashpot. The one you want is a DTG1.

You may be able to get this one to work OK but it will depend on state of tune and perhaps a slightly higher idle. Have you checked your engine with a vacuum gauge? Do you have steady vacuum above 18" at idle?

 

Jeff

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A Carter DTG1 carb is proper for your FD 4 speed truck.

Bob

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Well I guess it's always good to know where you're starting from :)  I'd really like the right carb on the truck.  Any idea where I might track one down at?  I'm also thinking I have a cracked exhaust manifold. 

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What carb was on it before the "new" one was installed? Can you get it back and have it rebuilt?

As for the dash pot on the DTG1 carb... That's what I have on my truck (also FD 4 speed) and I have the adjusting screw turned in so that the dash pot plunger is inoperative. I don't find any ill effects from this adjustment. I could never see the benefit of what it actually does. It would just keep the engine from returning to idle.

 

Merle

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The dash pot on the DTG1 carb is there to provide a "cushioning" effect on the throttle return. It is essentially a form of stall prevention. Fluid drives are engine speed sensitive and only work at their best when kept within a very specific rpm range at idle. The dash pot linkage provides this "cushion" by pumping a small amount of fuel through a orifice.back into the float chamber. It works very well when everything is properly adjusted. I found that my set up benefited from the addition of an aux. throttle return spring. It's effect is very brief but it is there to keep the idle speed from dropping to low when you take your foot off the pedal.

 

When I first got my truck running I had some trouble with all this. The biggest problem was caused by a vacuum leak. Fluid drives are more sensitive to a good steady idle than a conventional set up.. I tried my truck with the dash pot adjusted as Merle suggests but I found the factory adjustment really worked best. Again I do have an aux. throttle return spring installed and this addition definitely has an effect on how the dash pot works.

 

Hopefully you still have the DTG! or can find one. I have been looking for a spare for about two years with no joy.

 

Jeff

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The dash pot on the DTG1 carb is there to provide a "cushioning" effect on the throttle return. It is essentially a form of stall prevention. Fluid drives are engine speed sensitive and only work at their best when kept within a very specific rpm range at idle. The dash pot linkage provides this "cushion" by pumping a small amount of fuel through a orifice.back into the float chamber. It works very well when everything is properly adjusted. I found that my set up benefited from the addition of an aux. throttle return spring. It's effect is very brief but it is there to keep the idle speed from dropping to low when you take your foot off the pedal.

 

When I first got my truck running I had some trouble with all this. The biggest problem was caused by a vacuum leak. Fluid drives are more sensitive to a good steady idle than a conventional set up.. I tried my truck with the dash pot adjusted as Merle suggests but I found the factory adjustment really worked best. Again I do have an aux. throttle return spring installed and this addition definitely has an effect on how the dash pot works.

 

Hopefully you still have the DTG! or can find one. I have been looking for a spare for about two years with no joy.

 

Jeff

Oh, never thought of that Jeff, always figured it was a must for the semi-auto trans and not a 3 spd and fluid drive coupler, live and learn....

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Well unfortunately what came off the truck wasn't a DTG1 either.  When I couldn't get the truck going over a year ago the shop said the carb was a combo of many things and seemed a Frankenstein carb.  It looks to me like a Carter YF with some other stuff going on and few plugged holes.  At the time they said this the D6G1 would be better and was a fresh rebuild.  I've attached picture of the old carb in case anyone has thought on this set up vs. what I'm currently running.  I do know that with this old carb, when it was working, the fluid drive ran great and everything seemed to be in order.  But it seemed like the shop wasn't confident in finding all the parts necessary for the rebuild.

 

Anyone out there interested in parting with a DTG1?

 

Thanks,

Jeremy

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You may well be able to get the carb you have to work. I think the real key is a very stable idle with a steady vacuum reading. If you have not put a vacuum test on this yet I suggest you give it a shot. Ideally you want a very steady reading on the gauge. If the needle is bouncing around much you wont have any luck getting the FD to operate correctly. And by much I think a fairly small needle bounce of more than a half an inch is probably too much.

 

If you have a exhaust leak or any sort of vacuum leak.then you probably have to correct this in order for it to all work correctly. At one point I had a PCV valve connected that was not functioning properly and it was enough to cause an issue with stalling. Fluid drives are very nice if they are working properly......but they add another few details that require owner attention.

 

Merle I don't have a picture of it but there is a small passage from the dash pot chamber back into the float chamber. Mine was stopped up when I first rebuilt it....took me a few attempts to find and get it clear.

 

Jeff

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Merle I don't have a picture of it but there is a small passage from the dash pot chamber back into the float chamber. Mine was stopped up when I first rebuilt it....took me a few attempts to find and get it clear.

 

Jeff

 

I cleaned, and looked, and cleaned, and looked, and cleaned, and looked... and couldn't find it. I finally gave up and put it together with the screw turned down to disable it. The rest of my system must be good since I haven't seemed to be needing it. I also don't come to a stop from high speeds without using the clutch. (Old habits I suppose)

 

Merle

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I cleaned, and looked, and cleaned, and looked, and cleaned, and looked... and couldn't find it. I finally gave up and put it together with the screw turned down to disable it. The rest of my system must be good since I haven't seemed to be needing it. I also don't come to a stop from high speeds without using the clutch. (Old habits I suppose)

 

Merle

No doubt. And I do remember being a bit surprised by the location of it. At one point I went back over this carb with denatured alcohol and that was when I "found" some dirt and blockage that the earlier cleaning didn't get. :huh: It was a "If at first you don't succeed....try try again" moment.

To be honest ...out of habit I use the clutch 99% of the time too.

 

Jeff

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Well unfortunately what came off the truck wasn't a DTG1 either.  When I couldn't get the truck going over a year ago the shop said the carb was a combo of many things and seemed a Frankenstein carb.  It looks to me like a Carter YF with some other stuff going on and few plugged holes.  At the time they said this the D6G1 would be better and was a fresh rebuild.  I've attached picture of the old carb in case anyone has thought on this set up vs. what I'm currently running.  I do know that with this old carb, when it was working, the fluid drive ran great and everything seemed to be in order.  But it seemed like the shop wasn't confident in finding all the parts necessary for the rebuild.

 

Anyone out there interested in parting with a DTG1?

 

Thanks,

Jeremy

Carter carburetors are about as basic as you can get. Rebuilding them normally consists of gasket replacement and through cleaning of the innards and internal ports. If your carburetor shop stuck there head in the sand about rebuilding a Carter carburetor I think there motive was to sell you a carburetor they had on the shelf and most likely for an inflated price. So now you are stuck with something that does not work. By your own comments the original carburetor worked well. If it worked well once it can do so again. I also question if the original carburetor was really a problem.

 

If it were me I would buy a gasket kit and rebuild the original carburetor. This is something very easy to do especially with coaching from members of this forum. I would also return the unusable rebuilt carburetor for a full refund and I would not be doing much business with that shop in the future. This is just my opinion. 

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That looks like an Edsel single barrel Carter YF-BB1 carburetor. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Per the Carburetor Doctor, the carb kit for your YF carburetor would be a CK45 with a float F17. Napa #CRB 25354.   That carb is listed as GM and Ford.  I had a YF4339S on my car when I purchased it, and it drove, but was definitely not right.  The numbers in the center (4368) tell you what carb kit to look for in the books.  I have been unable to find which type of cars/engines that your carb is designed for at this time.  I'll try to figure it out, if you decide to sell it or just to know.  By the way, I'm not trying to push one kit or another, just trying to help give options.

Edited by mlozier76
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Found 1 application for your YF4368S as of now, it was used on 1st Camaros with either the 230 or 250 engine with automatic transmissions.  Hope it helps.

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