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engine oil


janan5243

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I am not going to make any sort of a recommendation and only state that I have been using 10w40 Havoline in my P15 since we got in 1986 and in my '98 Dakota since I got it last fall.  My P15 generally runs from Memorial Day to Labour Day.  I use Havoline 5w30 in my Neon and Valvoline 5w30 in the wife's PT Cruiser.  The wife's prior cars ('92 Acclaim and '89 LeBaron), as well as my long gone '89 Jeep, all used Havoline 10w40 once I was in charge of the oil change.  My '78 Pinto also got Havoline 10w40.

 

My in-laws are Schoharie HS graduates and live in the Capital Region now.  They still have lots of family in area.  My FIL grew up right across from the school and has some theories as to how a load of bricks overnight formed a peace sign and spelled out "LOVE" on the school's front yard in 1969.  This mystery also made the local newspaper.  My FIL thinks it may be magic.  I think it may have been leprechauns.

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My brother learned that the light weight multi grade oil leaks out a LOT faster then straight 30w does......

Decisions, decisions. . .

 

Use multi-weight oil and have better start up lubrication where most of the wear occurs and have to put an oil pan on the garage floor. . .

 

Or

 

Use straight weight, wear the engine out faster but have a cleaner garage floor.

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Synthetic oil is the same way. It's thin when cold. Your engine leaks more when cold too, as everything shrinks up as it cools.

 

This means worse cold oil leaks with synthetic or multiweight.

 

BUT:

 

With straight 30 weight oil you're supposed to change it to 10 or 20 in the winter (depending on how cold it gets where you live) and straight 10 weight will leak out just as fast as 10w40 when it's cold. 

Edited by Ulu
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Decisions, decisions. . .

 

Use multi-weight oil and have better start up lubrication where most of the wear occurs and have to put an oil pan on the garage floor. . .

 

Or

 

Use straight weight, wear the engine out faster but have a cleaner garage floor.

doesn't matter how much start up protection you have when you run down the road and lock it up because you left all your oil on the garage floor. granted routine checks of a device that indicates the amount of oil remaining in the pan and maintaining it at the proper level may provide differing results.

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is there any advantage or dis advantage to using a multiweight oil in a flathead ? I live upstate New York & generally only use car spring to fall.

No. The flathead is a plain-bearing engine like OHV engines you may be more familiar with. No roller bearings or ball bearings to be concerned with. The best way to determine whether your oil type and grade is ok in your engine is to monitor your oil pressure, and make sure it remains well within factory specifications.

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Thanks for all the replies. I monitor the Oil Pressure carefully, Thank God. Leaving home one afternoon, I noticed oil pressure dropping to 0 then back to 40. Only had about 1 1/2 to 2 qts. oil in engine. Had a serious leak from oil pump cover. Had noticed dripping when parked in garage but it was leaking worse when running & blowing back on frame. Fixed leak next day. Still have some small leaks but my car is original equipment so figure I'll have some gaskets & seals to work on. Was happy to find out it wasn't a rear main seal leak. Also thought it was like a Harley, marking it's spot. I guess I'll stick with 30w. I don't drive car in winter. Sorry it took so long to reply but I've been working 7 days a week on one of my properties. Project almost complete. Waiting for another contractor to complete job. will then have some weekend days to enjoy car.

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Did you have or find the special oil pump O-ring to seal the pump cover?

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