Tony724 Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 My 52 Cambridge with the 218, well...someone opted out, and didn't get the factory oil filter set up. I have nothing. I think someone makes after aftermarket ones maybe??? The whole set up? Also, I did see "somewhere", that they make one that bolts to the oil pump instead? I forgot to bookmark it, and cannot find it now. I think I have an external oil pump, and seems like that would be a good place to put one. If anyone knows anything about this one, and if it is for my car, please chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belvedere666 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 (edited) i switched out my sealed canister one with a spin off top one from vintage power wagons. it was like 40 bucks or something plus the element that slips inside. the brass couplers needed to be replaced but that was like 4 dollars. it came with the bracket that bolts to the head and its nice and looks good. i've hear dthat there were some cars where this looks correct and i've heard from people that it's not... but.. it works. they ship kinda dirty and you have to clean them up but they look good after painting. Edited April 26, 2015 by belvedere666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 My 41 Plymouth was "restored" without having an oil filter installed, something I corrected with this beehive filter, there is an oil gallery along the US drivers side of the block with 3-5 plugs plus the correct installation plugs near the oil pressure valve ...........btw all mopar flatheads have the oil pump mounted externally on the opposite side to the distributor and in fact drive the dissy, thru the oil pump & cam gear......as for the canister oil filter, there where both sealed throwaway units and others where the canister came apart, you removed the old filter and installed a new one keeping the old canister.............the beehive filter uses a replacement filter that is the same as a number of the steel canister types.........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 i switched out my sealed canister one with a spin off top one from vintage power wagons. it was like 40 bucks or something plus the element that slips inside. the brass couplers needed to be replaced but that was like 4 dollars. it came with the bracket that bolts to the head and its nice and looks good. i've hear dthat there were some cars where this looks correct and i've heard from people that it's not... but.. it works. they ship kinda dirty and you have to clean them up but they look good after painting. I do want one for sure. I know it went without one its whole life, but it bothers me. Do you have a link to the one you bought? I want to keep my oil pressure gauge hooked up, so I would guess a T fitting? My 41 Plymouth was "restored" without having an oil filter installed, something I corrected with this beehive filter, there is an oil gallery along the US drivers side of the block with 3-5 plugs plus the correct installation plugs near the oil pressure valve ...........btw all mopar flatheads have the oil pump mounted externally on the opposite side to the distributor and in fact drive the dissy, thru the oil pump & cam gear......as for the canister oil filter, there where both sealed throwaway units and others where the canister came apart, you removed the old filter and installed a new one keeping the old canister.............the beehive filter uses a replacement filter that is the same as a number of the steel canister types.........andyd WOW, that looks cool honestly! I looked all over the internet and could not find anything for my car for a oil filter unit. I must be stupid or something. I was looking on the passenger side of the motor on mine yesterday, while I was putting the carb back on. I thought the oil pump was towards the back of my engine on that side towards the back externally. I don't know what that is then. Any links would be greatly appreciated! I am going to drop my pan, "looks like it will come right down", without removing anything. And clean it up inside, and pull the sidecovers too, and clean the motor inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Would this okay? I know I would need a T fitting to keep my oil pressure gauge working? http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLATHEAD-FORD-MERC-OIL-FILTER-CANISTER-1932-1953-Includes-new-element-/251933108361?hash=item3aa8622889&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 No need to disturb your oil pressure gauge plumbing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbone85737 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 (edited) If the engine is out of the car, put your oil pump in the block and time the distributor before you put the engine back in the car. The oil pump won't clear the frame rail on the passenger side. Edited April 26, 2015 by Darbone85737 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belvedere666 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Here's the link to vintage power wagons parts. There's a different section for different years but I'm pretty sure they're the same part and what they send you may not match the picture exactly. Mine has a big spinning T handle in top. The one pictured had a nut and they recommend the "sock type" element to put in it. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Would this okay? I know I would need a T fitting to keep my oil pressure gauge working? http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLATHEAD-FORD-MERC-OIL-FILTER-CANISTER-1932-1953-Includes-new-element-/251933108361?hash=item3aa8622889&vxp=mtr I believe that filter is for a V8 Flathead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 No need to disturb your oil pressure gauge plumbing. Don I did use a tee into the outlet for my filter and the oil pressure gauge. I looked at that plug on the rear of the engine but the starter looked like it would be in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Lloyd, that Fram one on ebay would work just as well on a mopar.......the brackets etc are Ford specific but the filter will work on any engine........you may find that a filter that's listed specifically for a mopar may have extra bucks added , however the same filter listed for a GM or Frod product maybe a little cheaper......Spedway motors and others sell new repos of the beehive filter......they were originally called a "Filtercooler" as the fins supposedly help to keep the oil cool.....might have but not by much.........lol........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Lloyd, that Fram one on ebay would work just as well on a mopar.......the brackets etc are Ford specific but the filter will work on any engine........you may find that a filter that's listed specifically for a mopar may have extra bucks added , however the same filter listed for a GM or Frod product maybe a little cheaper......Spedway motors and others sell new repos of the beehive filter......they were originally called a "Filtercooler" as the fins supposedly help to keep the oil cool.....might have but not by much.........lol........andyd Hey Andy, I believe the bracket on that one is spot welded on the housing. Plus it shows 3 bolts, the 6 cyl only has two bolts on the side of the head. If the top 2 bolts on that bracket match the two mounting holes on the 6 cyl then it would work - course you could always modify it even if they didn't match but even so the filter housing is at an angle on the bracket to allow for the angle of the original V8 head.... Believe so anyway, course Ive never seen a filter housing on a flathead V8 but I would guess it is that way to keep the housing upright when its mounted??. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Lots of other manufacturer's used that type of filter. Check old tractor boneyards as well as industrial. Ford 8N tractor had that style so I assume the 9N and 2N as well, an old Clark forklift I had with a Continental engine had one as well. Brackets can be modified to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 The filter housing will work on any engine. What I'm saying is that particular filter bracket will not bolt on to a flathead 6 cyl without modifications. Why go thru that when you can get one that bolts up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 No need to disturb your oil pressure gauge plumbing. That is great thank you. I should have taken a photo today. I did notice to pipe style plugs at the bottom of the engine, and wondered about them. I was hoping to leave my oil sender alone if possible. That photo helps a lot. i wished I could figure out how these filter the dirt out. I am used to the way they work on SBC....etc. If the engine is out of the car, put your oil pump in the block and time the distributor before you put the engine back in the car. The oil pump won't clear the frame rail on the passenger side. My engine is in the car. Hopefully stays that way...haha Here's the link to vintage power wagons parts. There's a different section for different years but I'm pretty sure they're the same part and what they send you may not match the picture exactly. Mine has a big spinning T handle in top. The one pictured had a nut and they recommend the "sock type" element to put in it. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf That is great, thank you for posting that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 I just found a period correct canister mixed in with a huge parts crate I got with the purchase of my 51 coupe. i will be taken pics starting tonite of the smaller items like wiper arms & blades, light bezels & lens (front & rear) oil canister with filters. If you can wait to see the pic I'll be fine with an offer for it and the back up filters. The tranny and rear pumpkin pics will be this week, right now SW Fla. is getting really wet! Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Neon Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 If I were going to all the trouble of plumbing a new oil filter, I wouldn't waste my time with a drop-in canister from the '40s. It is only a matter of time before they go the way of the disposable canisters. I'd get a remote placement filter unit that takes spin-ons: NAPA 1085 if you are a MoPar purist, but just about any spin-on filter will fit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-24034/overview/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 If I were going to all the trouble of plumbing a new oil filter, I wouldn't waste my time with a drop-in canister from the '40s. It is only a matter of time before they go the way of the disposable canisters. I'd get a remote placement filter unit that takes spin-ons: NAPA 1085 if you are a MoPar purist, but just about any spin-on filter will fit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-24034/overview/ If you decide on a spin on adaptor, then I'd suggest looking at using one of the spin-on filters designed for by-pass filtering use. Those typically have depth media rather than surface media and should be doing micron or sub-micron filtering instead of the typical 40 micron or so filtering of a full flow filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Neon Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 If you decide on a spin on adaptor, then I'd suggest looking at using one of the spin-on filters designed for by-pass filtering use. Those typically have depth media rather than surface media and should be doing micron or sub-micron filtering instead of the typical 40 micron or so filtering of a full flow filter. Modern synthetic oil filter elements operate much the same as you mention. Fram Ultra (as an example) states that it is 99.5% efficient at 20 microns. Most synthetic media filters will now outperform any of the older paper element bypass filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 If I were going to all the trouble of plumbing a new oil filter, I wouldn't waste my time with a drop-in canister from the '40s. It is only a matter of time before they go the way of the disposable canisters. I'd get a remote placement filter unit that takes spin-ons: NAPA 1085 if you are a MoPar purist, but just about any spin-on filter will fit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-24034/overview/ I really like that idea a lot!! I don't know exactly how I would hook it up, or where too. Sorry for being dumb to that part. I would like to use a spin on if possible. If you decide on a spin on adaptor, then I'd suggest looking at using one of the spin-on filters designed for by-pass filtering use. Those typically have depth media rather than surface media and should be doing micron or sub-micron filtering instead of the typical 40 micron or so filtering of a full flow filter. Is there a specific one they have for by-passing filtering use? I am getting confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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