Tony724 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 My 1952 Cambridge, 218 engine. I was told by a neighbor to just run 10W/30 in it. He's not a mechanic just for reference. However, i just came from the local old fashioned gas station down the street, and I usually end up chatting with the owner, who is quite up in age. I asked him, and he grabbed a bottle of Kendall Straight SAE30W. And said to run that? Who's right? I won't be doing any winter driving of course with this car. Any input? I don't know what they ran in those days in this motor. Just want to to the right thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iowa51 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I am in the process rebuilding my engine for my '51 but before I pulled it I used straight 30w detergent with a bottle of STP Oil Treatment as it smoked a little. Probably use straight 30w after the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Once again this is a subject that has been beat to death on this forum. Use the forum search function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Sorry about that. I had no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Tony use the Kendall 30 weight, get this engine running, do some driving, and after a couple of hundred miles dump the oil and add new. you will see what viscosity your engine prefers, it could be 10W30, 10W40, 20W50, or straight 30. New fresh modern oil is what you need, then get this beast burning gas for a while.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Sorry about that. I had no idea. Exactly, how are you supposed to know. At least you did not mention ZDDP, detergent versus non detergent, which friggin brand is superior etc. Just put in the fresh oil and use it for a while. Later on pull the oil pan and valve side covers, cleaned them out, install new gaskets, that will help clean everything up....get her runnin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Tony use the Kendall 30 weight, get this engine running, do some driving, and after a couple of hundred miles dump the oil and add new. you will see what viscosity your engine prefers, it could be 10W30, 10W40, 20W50, or straight 30. New fresh modern oil is what you need, then get this beast burning gas for a while.... Thank you Fargo! I wasn't trying to upset the apple cart. I am new to this forum, I didn't know this was gone over before. The old timer told me these motors liked straight 30. So it made me wonder. I will ruin the straight 30 at first. I am still working on the fuel system for it, and the universal ignition switch, to get it right. Is there a way I will know when its time to switch to a different grade, or if mine prefers a 10w/30 style oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Exactly, how are you supposed to know. At least you did not mention ZDDP, detergent versus non detergent, which friggin brand is superior etc. Just put in the fresh oil and use it for a while. Later on pull the oil pan and valve side covers, cleaned them out, install new gaskets, that will help clean everything up....get her runnin I was under it wire wheeling everything yesterday, and doing clean up. It honestly looks like the oil pan will come right off of mine, without much trouble! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 back when they were made and the oil industry was as it was..yes...question..would you run this 30ND in your present day car....where most oils are now 5w-20 each to his own reasoning..if your car has always been on this ND diet...sludge is such that it may be best not to use a HD on a quick change of diet...but rather slowly change it over by adding a bit of HD at a time and changing the filter often while the detergents break the crud loose and flow it to be trapped in the filter again...each their own...read up on Bob the Oil Guy..you may find his site interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 back when they were made and the oil industry was as it was..yes...question..would you run this 30ND in your present day car....where most oils are now 5w-20 each to his own reasoning..if your car has always been on this ND diet...sludge is such that it may be best not to use a HD on a quick change of diet...but rather slowly change it over by adding a bit of HD at a time and changing the filter often while the detergents break the crud loose and flow it to be trapped in the filter again...each their own...read up on Bob the Oil Guy..you may find his site interesting I will do that! I don't have a filter on mine yet. I guess someone didn't want top pay for the extra option when it was new. I am going to pull my oil pan, just clean everything up. Will make me feel better! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Thank you Fargo! I wasn't trying to upset the apple cart. I am new to this forum, I didn't know this was gone over before. The old timer told me these motors liked straight 30. So it made me wonder. I will ruin the straight 30 at first. I am still working on the fuel system for it, and the universal ignition switch, to get it right. Is there a way I will know when its time to switch to a different grade, or if mine prefers a 10w/30 style oil? Your engine may burn oil if too light a viscosity, and/or lose oil pressure once she warms up. In those cases sometimes a little heavier oil will remedy some of those issues common to a well worn engine. Oil pressure, and oil burning will tell you a bit about your flathead...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Your engine may burn oil if too light a viscosity, and/or lose oil pressure once she warms up. In those cases sometimes a little heavier oil will remedy some of those issues common to a well worn engine. Oil pressure, and oil burning will tell you a bit about your flathead...... Okay thank you! I know when my buddy had it briefly, he was excited, because there was no tapping. And no smoke at all. But we have no idea what oil was in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 If you haven't rebuilt the engine or just want to clean the internals, add about 1/4-1/2 a quart of Seafoam eng/gas treatment to the oil and put the rest in the gas tank, and then change the oil again at about 500 miles. Joe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 If you haven't rebuilt the engine or just want to clean the internals, add about 1/4-1/2 a quart of Seafoam eng/gas treatment to the oil and put the rest in the gas tank, and then change the oil again at about 500 miles. Joe Thanks for the tip. I really like Seafoam. Without going into a long story. i can honestly say "first hand", it works on fuel systems that have had varnish smell. That stuff is amazing. I never tried it on the engine yet. Now may be the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Thanks for the tip. I really like Seafoam. Without going into a long story. i can honestly say "first hand", it works on fuel systems that have had varnish smell. That stuff is amazing. I never tried it on the engine yet. Now may be the time. Because you do not have a filter, be careful with the "Seafoam" in the oil business, could dislodge a lot of sludgy chunks. Listen you have fresh oil, get her road ready and put on some miles, clean out the oil pan and valve chambers, and see what you have. Just drive her, see what temps you run, and watch the oil pressure.....good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 I used to run well when I weighed about 190. That was 25-years and three hip replacements ago when I was in the Army. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Because you do not have a filter, be careful with the "Seafoam" in the oil business, could dislodge a lot of sludgy chunks. Listen you have fresh oil, get her road ready and put on some miles, clean out the oil pan and valve chambers, and see what you have. Just drive her, see what temps you run, and watch the oil pressure.....good luck Thats true. I don't need things getting clogged up. The oil pan looks like it will come right down. Theres only one arm that goes across under it, but still seems to clear it probably. It made it 63 years so far without a filter. But I still would like to out one on. I used to run well when I weighed about 190. That was 25-years and three hip replacements ago when I was in the Army. Yeah, I moved quick years ago. But at present time, I am not bad, but my knees are starting to feel wear! Thank you for serving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Tony, when you drop the oil pan, if you decide on a new pan gasket make sure to NOT cut the front/rear pan gaskets flush with the side gaskets.........the front/rear gaskets ARE supposed to sit a little proud of the side pan gaskets and are "squashed" into the corners of the pan/block to better seal......its also a good idea to use a bit of contact cement to glue the side gaskets onto the clean pan rail then a wipe of gasket goo/silicon, whatever you use between the gasket and block..........remember not to overtighten the pan bolts either as they can be squashed too much and it will leak again..............lol..........as for oil, I'd use any good 30/40 weight oil.........and I'd be chasing up an oil filter, yep they were an option but won't do the engine any harm, that's for sure.............regards, andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 My 1952 Cambridge, 218 engine. I was told by a neighbor to just run 10W/30 in it. He's not a mechanic just for reference. However, i just came from the local old fashioned gas station down the street, and I usually end up chatting with the owner, who is quite up in age. I asked him, and he grabbed a bottle of Kendall Straight SAE30W. And said to run that? Who's right? I won't be doing any winter driving of course with this car. Any input? I don't know what they ran in those days in this motor. Just want to to the right thing. I think it depends upon the condition of your particular engine. It wouldn't hurt to pull the pan and lifter galley cover to check for sludge and clean as needed. If the seller was local, ask him what he's been using and perform a fresh oil change. Drive it and enjoy it for a while to get a baseline of the engine condition. You will soon get an idea of what is "normal" for this engine in it's current condition. Make some mental notes of, oil pressure cold, oil pressure hot, smoke from the exhaust, blow-by at the draft tube, and oil consumption, then adjust accordingly. If the engine is a fresh rebuild a 10w30 might be a good choice. If she's a tired old girl, then maybe 15w40 or straight 30w might be a better choice. Since it doesn't have an oil filter and most that do are a bypass type, I would shy away from any engine flush treatments that may dislodge chunks of crud to be recirculated. This topic may have been "beat to death", but it is still relevant and people do seem to enjoy discussing motor oils. I hope you enjoy your project. Scott. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony724 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Tony, when you drop the oil pan, if you decide on a new pan gasket make sure to NOT cut the front/rear pan gaskets flush with the side gaskets.........the front/rear gaskets ARE supposed to sit a little proud of the side pan gaskets and are "squashed" into the corners of the pan/block to better seal......its also a good idea to use a bit of contact cement to glue the side gaskets onto the clean pan rail then a wipe of gasket goo/silicon, whatever you use between the gasket and block..........remember not to overtighten the pan bolts either as they can be squashed too much and it will leak again..............lol..........as for oil, I'd use any good 30/40 weight oil.........and I'd be chasing up an oil filter, yep they were an option but won't do the engine any harm, that's for sure.............regards, andyd Thanks! I was looking under it again today, I was finishing up some wire wheel work and painting the underneath. I seen the oil pan gasket online. I need to find those side gaskets. For the lifter area. Yes, I have over tightened enough pan gaskets. I always get paranoid,, well then ya know. Leak!! I usually use that Indian Head gasket adhesive to hold them in place. I think it depends upon the condition of your particular engine. It wouldn't hurt to pull the pan and lifter galley cover to check for sludge and clean as needed. If the seller was local, ask him what he's been using and perform a fresh oil change. Drive it and enjoy it for a while to get a baseline of the engine condition. You will soon get an idea of what is "normal" for this engine in it's current condition. Make some mental notes of, oil pressure cold, oil pressure hot, smoke from the exhaust, blow-by at the draft tube, and oil consumption, then adjust accordingly. If the engine is a fresh rebuild a 10w30 might be a good choice. If she's a tired old girl, then maybe 15w40 or straight 30w might be a better choice. Since it doesn't have an oil filter and most that do are a bypass type, I would shy away from any engine flush treatments that may dislodge chunks of crud to be recirculated. This topic may have been "beat to death", but it is still relevant and people do seem to enjoy discussing motor oils. I hope you enjoy your project. Scott. I have no info on the motor. I just have a film clip of it running, no smoke, and no tapping, very smooth. I had someone offer me a oil filter set up from a tractor for 40 bucks. Looks just like the one they take. I need to buy that, and put it on. I found NON detergent straight 30W Wolfs Head at Napa. I will use that for a while. Then slowly migrate over to Detergent later. i don't like flushing the motor, since my buddy did it years ago, and had an "incident". It wasn't a good outcome! Thank you, I truly enjoy working on this car. I have done many cars for 30 years, mostly old Beetles. This is a VERY well constructed car. I was laying underneath it for a while, they sure built cars different "back in the day", much simpler and well constructed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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