mlozier76 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I was working on the flathead last night, putting in new manifold studs that I got from vintage power wagons when I realized that one of the studs that hold down the automatic choke on the manifold had broken. When I went to try to start the engine, it started arcing where the unit had the broken stud. I removed the wire, but now question how easily my car will start. I have a weak battery and bad wiring (cracked insulation). I plan to go hard at them both this weekend, assuming I can get all the terminal ends for my wiring. Has anybody either run without the automatic choke, or replaced it? How readily available is it and/or could you please help with an idea where to find one? The gasket that was underneath is pretty much toast, and I don't know if that will affect the operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 you can carefully drill and remove the broken bolt...I do suggest that after good center drilling to heat the broken bolt to at least two cycles of cherry red to evaporate the rust bond between it and the manifold..let cool and then use a square ease-e-out for extraction...spirals seem to like to shatter most of the time. If this fails, you can always blow the bolt...not a hard process but one that involves shooting hot balls of steel everywhere..either case..proceed with caution and do ensure you center drill best possible..I would think drilling and the heat cycles would do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 mlozier76, on 24 Feb 2015 - 11:22 AM, said:I was working on the flathead last night, putting in new manifold studs that I got from vintage power wagons Curious what the new studs cost from VPW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlozier76 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Honestly I have never had much luck with easy outs, either style in the cast parts, engine block or manifolds. I had 3 studs broken in the block and 3 in the intake manifold, that's why I had to get the vintage power wagons bolt kit with stainless bolts for the manifold. I ended up welding nuts and washers on until I could extract all of the broken studs. I didn't have access to a torch, but I like that idea and believe I will try that on it. I really should have done it while I had the manifold off earlier. I simply forgot about that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlozier76 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I should have gotten them from a local place, they were $2 a piece. I mainly did it for ease, as I was already on the phone with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 These studs were welded on studs and not a true bolt that treads into the top of the manifold. At least that is how they are on my 39 Desoto that uses the Sisson automatic choke. If you can weld on a new stud then that will help. You could also maybe use a modern hose aligator clap to hold te unit down onto the top of the manifold, The gasket is needed to help with the heat transfer fromthe manifold to the bimetal plate that moves the choke lever rod. These choeks have gotent o be real expensive. I have a couple of these NOS if you need one. I also have the testing stand to verify that your old choke is working correctly and also have the Sisson choke instructions on CD. Contact me: rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Cell 484-431-8157 Home 610-630-9188 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 (edited) desoto1939, on 24 Feb 2015 - 12:19 PM, said:desoto1939, on 24 Feb 2015 - 12:19 PM, said: These studs were welded on studs and not a true bolt that treads into the top of the manifold. At least that is how they are on my 39 Desoto that uses the Sisson automatic choke. If you can weld on a new stud then that will help. You could also maybe use a modern hose aligator clap to hold te unit down onto the top of the manifold, The gasket is needed to help with the heat transfer fromthe manifold to the bimetal plate that moves the choke lever rod. These choeks have gotent o be real expensive. I have a couple of these NOS if you need one. I also have the testing stand to verify that your old choke is working correctly and also have the Sisson choke instructions on CD. Contact me: rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Cell 484-431-8157 Home 610-630-9188 non thread studs...then that would be even an easier fix than if threaded..simply drill and install blind hole stud or if creative, replace stud with a split stud and wedge...insert, tap into place and you back in business.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/x4pcs-1-4-20-Blind-Threaded-Insert-Stud-Captive-/200669921427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb8dc0093 just one commercial example of a product Edited February 24, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlozier76 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Thank you very much for your help. I could have created more problems. I will take a look at that when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I went to a MOM and Pop Hardware and bought two Small Threaded studs for my Exhaust Manifold drilled and Tapped them in where needed. Use a Center punch. I even used a coordless drill. Then just simply attached the choke back with star washers and nuts. You can probably rummage around your favorite Auto Supply House Bins and come up with compatable studs. I believe they were about an inch long with course thread on one side and fine threads on the other end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I was working on the flathead last night, putting in new manifold studs that I got from vintage power wagons when I realized that one of the studs that hold down the automatic choke on the manifold had broken. When I went to try to start the engine, it started arcing where the unit had the broken stud. I removed the wire, but now question how easily my car will start. I have a weak battery and bad wiring (cracked insulation). I plan to go hard at them both this weekend, assuming I can get all the terminal ends for my wiring. Has anybody either run without the automatic choke, or replaced it? How readily available is it and/or could you please help with an idea where to find one? The gasket that was underneath is pretty much toast, and I don't know if that will affect the operation. The electrical spark maybe from just a bad ground condition, made worse by lack of a second bolt holding the sisson choke to the manifold. Clean any rust off of the mounting sections of the choke flange area and use a star type lock washer under the bolt. These chokes do not often go bad. They are currently not cheap to replace, but have some reasonably ?priced Used ones on E-bay in the past, just watch that the choke arm is on the correct side when mounted as 2 differant ones where used. Early and later but the year change? repair broken off bolt- I have repaired several bolts by simply? drilling the correct size hole (#7 drill bit) to tap to a 1/4"nc bolt size and taped it to fit with homemade hi temp gasket material from the Napa store. Drilled hole May go into the exhaust manifold but does not cause any problems. Maybe desoto1939 also has just the gasket available?? More thoughts for you,good luck! DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey4420 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 In my 46 the wire from the starter to the chock was gone so as of right now mine doesn't work. I have tested it with a direct wire and I hear it actuate just haven't had a chance to rewire it. Mine started the other day in sub zero temps with a little effort but it did start and run. But in 40+ degree temps it starts on the first try and I have 12 volt size wires on my battery. Yes that is also on the project list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) If I can I will load a picture they are about 2" Long Tapped into Exhaust Manifold with Lock Tight when I changed out my Manifold Gaskets Edited February 25, 2015 by Tom Skinner 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I removed that automatic choke within the first year or so of owning our D24, and installed a manual one. The auto choke worked fairly well, but we were living in west Texas at the time. When "cold" ( by southwest standards), it worked fine, but once the car got to working temp in that always-over-90-nearer-to-100 weather, every time I'd shut it off, the choke would flood the engine. I'd have to have my passenger hold the choke open while I started it. I imagine the bi-metal spring was probably shot, but once I replaced the auto with the manual, I haven't had any problems, and haven't come up with a good reason to change it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I removed that automatic choke within the first year or so of owning our D24, and installed a manual one. The auto choke worked fairly well, but we were living in west Texas at the time. When "cold" ( by southwest standards), it worked fine, but once the car got to working temp in that always-over-90-nearer-to-100 weather, every time I'd shut it off, the choke would flood the engine. I'd have to have my passenger hold the choke open while I started it. I imagine the bi-metal spring was probably shot, but once I replaced the auto with the manual, I haven't had any problems, and haven't come up with a good reason to change it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 what type of manual "kit" did you use? Thinking of instaling a manual my self! I think the automatic is work ok for now, but you never know;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 what type of manual "kit" did you use? Thinking of instaling a manual my self! I think the automatic is work ok for now, but you never know;) Alas, I don't remember. It was an off the shelf generic one from Pep Boys, very easy to install. I'll take a couple photos when I get home tonight and post them tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) As I wrote before, I don't remember what brand this was, nor do I remember if it was specifically for a manual choke application, or simply a control cable kit. What I do remember is that I bought it at a Pep Boys in the "Help" isle, the isle where all the miscellaneous doo-dads are. This was also about 20 years ago.... As you can see in the close-up, I installed a dog-leg piece onto the original linkage to put the wire on the opposite side of the pivot than the original attachment location, this was so the cable action wouldn't be reversed. That piece was the choke lever from a different old carburetor I had lying around (another CRS moment as I don't remember the brand of that carb, either) so it already had the handy wire clamp screw on it. Edited February 27, 2015 by Dan Hiebert 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Great pictures ! Thank you so much! Smart thing to mount it on the other side! Would never have thought of that!! Will have a look in my local parts store and se what i can find! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 still available, Motormite( MTM )brand. seems every parts store has their HELP rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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