Don Jordan Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 The car just won't start. I've done everything from "auto shop 101" and no go. There seems to be spark at the points but it's not making it to the plugs. I took the dist out and checked the points (.20), the condenser was not fully hooked on - it is now. The rotor and cap are relatively new, the engine is rebuilt and was running for a time. I truly hate electrics it could be something so silly and I'm just missing it. As a side note the motor turns over very slow. The battery tests out at 6.4 volts. I know it's something simple I just don't know what. Is there a way to test the coil? rotor? cap? condenser? What am I missing? Thank you for your help and patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptwothree Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Don...try hooking up a timing light to any plug wire, pull the trigger, and grind it over.........that'll tell you if it's getting spark to the plugs. If no spark, then, get out a VOM an a test light to check out the rest of the system. You also said it is cranking slow. Did it ever crank fast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jordan Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I pulled the plug and grounded it to the block - nothing. Yes it has always turned a little slow but with some spark it would at least start. I will try the test light but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. The only culprits I can think of is coil, condenser, points, rotor, cap. Perhaps a short in the distributor. I think I may try pulling all those things off the car that works and see if I can find the missing piece. Is there some sort of short that would prevent spark to the plugs. The engine turns over so the entire electrical system is not fried. Tomorrow is another day. I guess that's why we get into this: for the sheer frustration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Could you have put the distributor in 180 degress out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jordan Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I could have but it would still fire - backfire but there still would be some reaction. I will check tomorrow. I would feel so humiliated if it were something that simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 getting spark at the points means the primary system is working. Pull the coil wire from the cap and hold it a short distance from ground, crank engine over and check for spark. Holding it with your hand usually isn't the best idea. If you have spark there, yo move on to the cap. If you do not, either a bad coil or coil wire. Cap can be cracked or it may have the center post missing or worn or incorrect cap. Then comes the rotor, I 'v e seen them ground to the distributor shaft and not send it out to the outer posts. Again, is the rotor correct for the distributor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 There is a very small wire that runs along the inner side of the distributor, If it is bare it will ground out, it must be flexible to allow for the movement of the mechanism. I had a simiilar problem. DJ1950 drove down, put a testor to the distributor, I had reassembled it incorrectly, fixed that and done. Maybe DJ can explain what my problem was. I was getting spark also, but would not run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suntennis Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Have you taken the top off the carb to see if there is any fuel in the bowl and or tried spraying some starter fluid into the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 On the off chance that the engine jumped timing or has a broken timing chain, I'd disconnect the coil, put the spark plugs back in, then crank the engine while holding you hand over the carb. You should only feel suction while cranking. If you get air puffing up through the carb it's a timing or valve issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 There is a very small wire that runs along the inner side of the distributor, If it is bare it will ground out, it must be flexible to allow for the movement of the mechanism. I had a simiilar problem. DJ1950 drove down, put a testor to the distributor, I had reassembled it incorrectly, fixed that and done. Maybe DJ can explain what my problem was. I was getting spark also, but would not run. This happened to me. Took a very long time and finally a professional Mechanic who really as he explained it"stumbled" over the problem to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jordan Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 thanks everyone - I'm just going to put my 2 Plymouths side by side and start switching parts until it runs. I know it's something little. It never can be something obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 One more thought...maybe you have a bad ground. Try putting a jumper wire from the ground terminal on the battery to the engine block and see if the engine cranks faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 I suggest to do NOT start swapping parts from one car to another, Yet. 1- they may use different distributors= wrong type parts. 2- now you can end up with two cars not running. Still no answers. Go back to square one. Remove dist. cap., rotor, pull wire from dist. to cap at cap. Use a test light to confirm power with ign. on to - on coil, if still pos. ground system. with the points closed position open points without touching the opening tool to the dist housing or any other metal part. Have the large wire that goes from the cap to the coil pulled out of the cap metal end placed close to head 1/8" or less from the head ( a ground point). When the points are opened you should get a spark immediately. Repeat many times. It should work every time! If not points are dirty or grounded out already. If they are possibly grounded out, turn motor over slightly where points are open. to test that is to still have the large coil wire placed as before and put power(-) to coil off and on, if sparks each time power is applied to coil and then removed, points or wire are grounded. Back to square one for testing and go from there. Best of luck on the hunt! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 99% chance your problem is distributor related. You found a loose condenser. If the car had been running before that, and you did no other maintenance than the distributor work, you have likely not developed any other mysterious causes. Need spark. Need it at the right time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Bring #1 Cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC). Check Rotor Position for #1 (About 7PM Position in Distributor) . Static Time it. No spark then is probably a broken wire somewhere or a bad Starter Coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Just curious, did you ever get the gas gauge working on that car? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garbagestate 44 Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Maybe you have a short or broken ignition wire where they go through the coil bracket routing tubes between the distributor and the top of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Bring #1 Cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC). Check Rotor Position for #1 (About 7PM Position in Distributor) . Static Time it. No spark then is probably a broken wire somewhere or a bad Starter Coil. If he checks it in the morning, would it be 7AM? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jordan Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Don: I found a guy in Ark. that rebuilds gauges. I had my gas gauge and sending unit gone over and everything works perfect. Tomorrow I tackle my electrical problem. Thanks everyone for the leads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jordan Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 This is for what it's worth: There is a little wire that goes across the bottom plate in the dist. and plugs in with the condenser. I pulled out the dist to check for shorts. I ended up taking the dist apart. I saw a very small break in the wire coating - just enough to expose just a hint of wire. You couldn't see it just looking down. I knew it was something small I never would have guessed it would have been that small. I would like to thank all those for their input. I would like to send my prayers to all those on the east coast. I hope everyone is safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 If he checks it in the morning - it would be 7AM. L.M.A.O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 I think the timing has jumped on my 48 sedan. when I put #1 cylinder at top dead center and align the tab on the dizzy with the slot on the oil pump drive shaft the rotor is pointing at about 10 oclock. Could the gear on the pump jump somehow? Should I take the pump loose and rotate it till the dizzy is in the right location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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