Plymouthy Adams Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Ed..do not get in a hurry..I think I have a parts clock here...while taking a welding break looked on the shelf which is quite high in the shop to see if I could spot the box I put all the D24 stuff into...did not see it..will have to drag out the ladder and get up there and move things about.....the shelves are about 8 feet off the floor to the 13 foot ceilings..while a bit of inconvenience it allow me to long term store items by make and model..got these shelves on both sides of the lift bay..each shelf is dedicated to a certain make or model/build if you have just damaged the plastic lens...most are weather and yellowed with age anyway. I go to the dollar store and buy cheap battery clocks with the lightly curve crystal that will match the clock then cut it to fit. have done a couple of these in such manner.. no D24 clock I have sitting spare here has a nice plastic face except for the ones I have cleaned and set aside and the one that is upgraded to quartz movement... do let me know you exact needs here..if just plastic..you best to just make one as I stated above.... Edited January 27, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Will this help you any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Wow, yes it would. That face with the numbers is the one I ruined with the acetone. Are you willing to part with it? Thanks, Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Wow, yes it would. That face with the numbers is the one I ruined with the acetone. Are you willing to part with it? Thanks, Ed Yes I sent you a PM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 <edited to remove buy/sell. That should be in the classifieds or by PM> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) I sent you a PM prior to Ed making his available online and also included my phone number and got no call..you have since returned a message to ED that you are interested..I sent you yet another PM after that public acknowledgment of his offer that I will never cut into another mans deal. This is the very importance of dealing parts and such in PM form. I am now publicly stating here that my offer to help with parts is withdrawn while you deal with the other offer listed publicly. I cannot see any other way about this and call fair play... Edited January 29, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Oh boy, I'm really sorry I messed this up. I remember asking you if you wanted the call in the am or pm. You just stated the hours. I'm not familiar with the protocal about this, and I sincerely regret any and all misunderstandings. It's my fault, and I guess I have to bear the consequences. But, I want to thank you for your other information about the clock and its workings. It was a big help. Thank you, Ed Edited January 29, 2015 by central52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Back again with my 47 Dodge clock. Took it apart, cleaned it, oiled. Hooked up 6 volt battery, and it works. I see where the points connect and reset the mechanical part to drive it. Interesting. The points then open, and then goes thru the rewinding process again. So far, so good. Now, since I have to disconnect it from the 6volt battery, to put back in the car, the clock runs down, and the points connect and stay connected. To see if it will restart, I reconnected the 6volt battery, but this time, the points stay closed with a buzzing sound. It won't open. And if I leave it buzzing, it eventurally runs down and stops. There's got to be a trick here to make it right? Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 New thread same subject? Perhaps a moderator can combine the two threads. http://p15-d24.com/topic/37900-1947-dodge-clock-repair/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) clean your points and make sure thy making good firm contact..any resistance and the result could well be the buzzing sound.. look close to see if the spring is binding when wrapping Edited March 3, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Thank you, Plymouthy Adams, I thought I had cleaned the points, but I went over them, this time, with a heavy duty cleaner, and then used fine sandpaper on them. That did the trick. I let the clock run down, connected the battery wire, and, voila, they opened. No sparking and buzzing sound. Thanks, again, Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Back again, now the problem is the hot wire in the glove compartment that's to be connected to the clock. It's not hot. No juice. Traced wire back under dash to a connection box with other wires coming out. Put tracer wire device on it, no juice. So, hard to look to see where all those wires go. Got to go to the ammeter, right? Is that right after the ignition key? Put a tracer on that, no juice. Where else to look? Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 I do not have my schematic handy but was thinking it got its power from back of the lighter.. lighters have been know to hve resistant problem in the connection due t the many heat cycles it performs over the years..test here...I will try to find my schematic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 I thought they got the power from the acc terminal of the ignition switch. The clock in my p15 also has an inline fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) update..the Dodge manual does not show the clock in the schematic drawing...nor does it have a separate breakdown like a couple other accessories... the D24 and the P15 may be similar but without the schematic and crawling beneath the dash..I would not guess....the Dodge has a number of options above that of most Plymouths..fairly disappointed in my book...it does show the park brake light etc but no clock.. Edited March 5, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 I'd think the clock would have a constant hot or it would stop when car is turned off. Ammeter is before the switch I believe and should have both terminals hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 I thought they got the power from the acc terminal of the ignition switch. The clock in my p15 also has an inline fuse. I just looked at my clock harness and I have the fused wire labeled headlight switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Back again, now the problem is the hot wire in the glove compartment that's to be connected to the clock. It's not hot. No juice. Traced wire back under dash to a connection box with other wires coming out. Put tracer wire device on it, no juice. So, hard to look to see where all those wires go. Got to go to the ammeter, right? Is that right after the ignition key? Put a tracer on that, no juice. Where else to look? Ed Should be 1 wire for the clock light. Not hot unless using some lighting. 1 fused wire hot all the time. Can go to amp meter, ign hot terminal, cigarette lighter, or light switch hot terminal. These are all electrically common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 O.K. I took some pics underneath dash. Clock wire seems to be connected to the light switch. That yellow wire looped down is my clock wire. Now, if I put the test lite on it, it should register hot. On left is the ignition switch connections. One of those wires has to be hot. No? When I probe them with my test lite, it doesn't register. Maybe my test lite is defective? Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Have you tested your test light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 If your car starts, and your car lights work, the wire is hot. Try that test light right at the hot side of the battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Maybe you don't have a good ground for your test light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 stick your tongue to the wire...NOT...but does sound like your probe is bad connection internal at the bulb or the grounding wire/socket is defective on the test light...time to troubleshoot the troubleshooting tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Yep, it was my test lite. Didn't ground it good enough. Works ok, now. Tested the clock wire where it's connected to the lite switch, and it glowed. Didn't realize how important it is to have a good tight ground. Now, I'm going to put the clock back in, and I'm in business. So, thanks again, everybody for the help and advice. The journey is finally over. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.