Geekay Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 I am having difficulty re-installing the fuel pump after servicing the diagphagm. The difficulty is in getting the lever over the cam lobe and push it in place to install the 2 bolts. Because it is a very awkward position belwo the manifolds...working from underneath seems to give the best access but I still cannnot manage it. Used the hand crank to to turn engine and cam so that the lobe was not in play but still no go.....perhaps I need soemone with smaller hands who can get access better. Considered asking wife but quickly dismisssed this as I just want the satisfaction of doing it myself. She has small hands, which can have other advantages too. So those experienced people out there..if there is a tip...PLEASE!!! On the positive side I have it running!! see my other post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 The key is you have to manually compress the cam follower spring and then start the bolts. Takes some muscle. My mother always told me to marry a girl with small hands. That is another story but small hands will not help to install the fuel pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Thanks Don..yeah, maybe I am just weak. And, yes, you picked up on my oblique reference to girls with small hands...in my case, it is a necessity. Edited January 19, 2015 by Geekay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Try starting one bolt and then pivoting it into place to get the second started. Also helps to use some gasket goo to have it firmly stuck to either the block or the pump so you don't have to fight that at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 having done this last summer....it's NOT easy...it plain sucks...very awkward if you are on your back on a creeper. I started one bolt then the other and used the bolts to draw it on. The trick is to get the lever compressed enough to start the bolts..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 When you're installing the pump into the block, hug the inner block wall with the end of the pump actuating arm to make sure that it isn't slipping to the underside the cam. Been there and done that. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 After the last time I had to replace one in the truck, I now have made up some studs and keep them with my "spare" pump. They are just pieces of threaded rod the same size as the mounting bolts, but slightly longer. The "next" time I will thread the studs into the block and set the pump in place, then draw it in with nuts. Once it is tight I could remove one nut/stud combo and replace it with a bolt, and repeat on the other one. I haven't tried it yet to know how well it works, but that's my plan if I have to do one again. Merle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) also as an added..be sure that the cam is rotated to the base of the lobe when installing...though this is not spelled out in the manual..it does pictorially show this in figure three of my repair manual Edited January 19, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 After the last time I had to replace one in the truck, I now have made up some studs and keep them with my "spare" pump. They are just pieces of threaded rod the same size as the mounting bolts, but slightly longer. The "next" time I will thread the studs into the block and set the pump in place, then draw it in with nuts. Once it is tight I could remove one nut/stud combo and replace it with a bolt, and repeat on the other one. I haven't tried it yet to know how well it works, but that's my plan if I have to do one again. Merle Thanks Merle. I woondered too if this might help and might give it a try. At least now I know it's not just my clumsy inability to do this seemingly simple task. Thanks others too for guidance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 My mother always told me to marry a girl with small hands. That is another story but small hands will not help to install the fuel pump. Well Don after changing your diaper for all those years I guess your mom knew what you really needed to look for in a woman. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bach4660 Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 also as an added..be sure that the cam is rotated to the base of the lobe when installing...though this is not spelled out in the manual..it does pictorially show this in figure three of my repair manual I found this to be the secret, I just cranked it over, crawled under found it was too hard to thread a bolt, cranked it a second time and it just threaded right on, only a bit of a draw towards the bottom of the threads. The cam is compressing the fuel pump actuator from all in, to all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) After the last time I had to replace one in the truck, I now have made up some studs and keep them with my "spare" pump. They are just pieces of threaded rod the same size as the mounting bolts, but slightly longer. The "next" time I will thread the studs into the block and set the pump in place, then draw it in with nuts. Once it is tight I could remove one nut/stud combo and replace it with a bolt, and repeat on the other one. I haven't tried it yet to know how well it works, but that's my plan if I have to do one again. Merle Hey , thats an old racers trick Merle....nice. lol I use long threaded bolts with washer nuts and different length tubes to do the same thing on my 408 (360 engine). I use it on the starter, fuel pump, and a few misc areas on the suspension (independent rear suspension 97 thinderbird) 48D Edited January 21, 2015 by 48dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 At least on these engines, there's no dang push rod! Last time changing the pump on my Chevy 283 I screwed up big time and tightened the pump misaligned with the rod, and bent the rod. I finally realized my flub when the motor wouldn't start... :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) I found this to be the secret, I just cranked it over, crawled under found it was too hard to thread a bolt, cranked it a second time and it just threaded right on, only a bit of a draw towards the bottom of the threads. The cam is compressing the fuel pump actuator from all in, to all out. Thanks Plymouthy and bach et al. Fortunately I have the manual crank handle and found that if I lie under the trcuk, shine a torch in the hole to watch the cam, I can turn the crank with my leg until the lobe is not in play. Must look a bit strange but it works. Yesterday cut a new gasket and glued it on, making sure the holes in gasket give plenty of room for bolts to slip through. Today is fitting day and I will emplot all the tips given. Thanks everyone. At least with the Fargo in the early restoration phase if something doesn't work and I get cranky there are plenty of other areas I can "attack" Yesterday I removed the horn and dismanted it. It wasn't working and i found out why...full of grass seeds and dust. Cleaned it up, cut a couple of gaskets, and "hey presto".....I was expecting a road runner "meep meep" but it is more of a sick honk...like if youwhere strangling a goose (not that I have ever done that of course . Cheers to you all in the US of A. Edited January 24, 2015 by Geekay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Geekay; Be sure to use a bit of thread sealer like Permatex #2 on the bolts holding the fuel pump in place. They may leak oil with out this treatment. There is a adjuster on the horn which tends to be a bit sensitive. Helps to keep it on the bench until it is working the way you want it to. Make small adjustments until you get the "meep meep". Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Finally the pump is working. I used all the various tips given, and added one of my own. I found that by griding a point on the bolts made it easier to get them in the hole and started. Yeah!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Geekay; Be sure to use a bit of thread sealer like Permatex #2 on the bolts holding the fuel pump in place. They may leak oil with out this treatment. There is a adjuster on the horn which tends to be a bit sensitive. Helps to keep it on the bench until it is working the way you want it to. Make small adjustments until you get the "meep meep". Jeff Adjuster? Where is it , what does it look like? And thanks for the tip re sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 geekay......take a look at the back of the horn housing. Should be a small nut with a straight blade type screw in the center. Make small adjustments..... Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 +1 on that meep meep, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 . . . Yesterday I removed the horn and dismanted it. It wasn't working and i found out why...full of grass seeds and dust. Cleaned it up, cut a couple of gaskets, and "hey presto".....I was expecting a road runner "meep meep" but it is more of a sick honk...like if youwhere strangling a goose (not that I have ever done that of course . This link is for the older Klaxon horns made by Delco before Chrysler switched suppliers in 1935 but I think the principles are basically the same. The adjustment is very touchy, only a small adjustment between tries and lock the adjust screw down before trying. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/horn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I would suggest for testing you need more than a battery charger too. Mark and I both experienced horns that worked on the charger and then when installed on a truck needed to be readjusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Thanks all...meep meep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Thanks for the link TodFitch, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bach4660 Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 I like the thinking here, as soon as the fuel pump is in and working you NEED a horn, for everyone to get outta your way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) ... and bent the rod. I finally realized my flub when the motor wouldn't start... :-/ When I did my rebuild I put the bolts back in the block so I wouldn't loose them and I'd have the right one's. When I put the flywheel back on, of course I had to manually turn the crank in order to tighten all the bolts. Trouble was that I had also tightened the fuel pump bolts and they were nice and snug against the block. When I turned the crank over the cam bent one of the fuel pump bolts. As I remember, I had the cut off the bolt from the inside of the block with a hacksaw... Edited February 10, 2015 by Jim Shepard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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