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Restoring a Dodge '49 Business Coupe - sloooooowly


mm289

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So, over the next few years I plan to restore the '49 Dodge Business Coupe I picked up last year. No rush really, might get it road worthy and run it as it is for the summer then have a proper frame of resto next winter. Haven't quite decided what the outcome will be yet, depends on how I feel as it goes along.


Could leave it pretty much standard or do a mild kustom and a few period style speed parts. Trying to resist the V8 route as the flathead 6 is a bit different over here in the UK, but following some of Tim's and others posts about fitting flatheads out of later trucks with interest. :)


Spec as it stands now is as follows:


  • 1949 Dodge 2 door/3 passenger Business Coupe
  • Serial number is 37000238 which makes it number 137 off the D29/D30 production line in that year and one of the 9,342 bus coupes built that year (thanks Shel_ny :))
  • Body code is TPC1148, possibly 148th Three Passenger Coupe body?
  • Engine code is D30-23840 which is a 1949 23" 230 cu in flathead 6 and the correct engine for the car
  • Transmission is a Fluid Drive with 3 on the tree
  • Options identified so far include Model 100 Heater, Mopar 803 Radio

This is the car as it looked when I bought it.


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At some stage it has been lowered, partly shaved and some of the body prepped for paint, but that was a while ago so a lot of work will need doing again.


Condition on most of the exterior panels is really good and the main chassis members are rock solid. There is corrosion around most of the body mountings where they meet the sills/rockers. Also the inner rocker panel on the passenger side has just had a sheet of tin tacked over it to hide the corrosion.


Likewise the floor panels where they meet the inner fenders are rotten and have had tin screwed/tacked into place :)


 


Will post up some pics as I get under it proper but actually it is more solid than some of my VW projects that are half its age :o


Next job is to get it into the workshop.


 


Cheers,


Paul


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so far only one of the cars I have modified actually came with a running engine..I buy cars that are a bit rough about the edges with shot or missing power trains as I can get them for my price and well, I get to do my creative thing without a guilty conscious...I sold my 49 long ago as I had got it for the wife but she was not really keen on driving it as she is a bit height challenged and found the clutch and shifter working together was a bit much ...thus I sold it for if I were to keep it I would want to V8 it and the car was way better stock than going this route...

 

IF your 6 is currently in good order and such..suggest that you tune it and drive it as it is and get a feel for the car..you can always reevaluate the car at a later date...often the only push on any schedule is we the owner...give it a fair shake...then decide...

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Only 2 problems with getting it in the workshop.


  1. The workshop is full of "stuff"
  2. The rad is leaking like a sieve

Problem 1 has been a bit more long term :) The roof on my "shed" where I kept my wood working, gardening stuff etc. went last winter so the shed became a useless lump of mouldy timber. My summer project was to move all the "stuff" out of the shed into my spare bay in the workshop, whilst moving one of my camper vans I was restoring into an temporary storage shelter next door (tent!)


This then allowed me to start rebuilding the "shed" into a machine shop/store/wood shop. It is only partly finished but it is water tight and meant over Christmas I could move my gear out of the workshop and create a spare bay (Yippee :)) Shed restoration goes a bit like this....


 


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Had too split the post cause of the limit on the number of images.........


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Problem 2 was pretty easy to solve in comparison. The rad was in reasonable condition but had split where the header tank meets the core. It had had what looked bondo put in to seal it which hadn't worked :o.


WP_20141122_12_48_19_Pro_zps2b274196.jpg


Took it to our local radiator specialist who has fitted a modern 3 core insert. That cost me about £280 which wasn't too bad I thought.


 


Fitted the rad at the weekend and fired her up. Actually seems to run quite nice although needs a really good tidy up. Wiring is shot to pieces and carb has seen better days!


WP_20141122_12_49_27_Pro_zps60a21476.jpg


 


The sump and fluid drive look like they have fresh blue paint on so I am guessing it could have been a reconditioned/rebuilt unit. Also the head has new bolts fitted which would back this up.


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Once it was warmed up and running sweet I could move it into the workshop, although it’s a bit of a tight fit! Of course it ran out of petrol half way in and there was any way I was pushing it so had to chuck some more gas in, cranking it over flattened the battery so then had to jump start it of my truck etc. etc.


 


Still, finally got it onto my ramps and hoisted into the air so I could have a proper look over. Think it is the first time it has been inside in the dry for a couple of years so should do it a bit of good!


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As said earlier, overall pretty impressed with the condition. Will load up some pics of the underside when I get a chance to go back in the workshop but had to do some proper work earning money today!


 


Cheers,


 


Paul.


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"IF your 6 is currently in good order and such..suggest that you tune it and drive it as it is and get a feel for the car..you can always reevaluate the car at a later date...often the only push on any schedule is we the owner...give it a fair shake...then decide..."

 

Yep, I hear you. That’s kinda where I am at, get it roadworthy and run it for a summer then decide.

 

When I get a chance I will compression and leak down check the engine to give me a feel for what it is like internally then get on with tidying the electrics, carbs, ancillaries etc.

Next is brakes and driveline, then gotta decide how much to patch on the body/rockers to see me over till I do a full frame off.

 

Problem is I KNOW if I take the frame off now to do the patching I will end up doing a full resto and it will be off the road for a couple of years! Got to many other vehicles in that situation already :)

 

Cheers,

Paul.

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Paul.......unless it has to have major repairs to the chassis/mounts etc for your MOT(?) then I'd try to just get the ol' girl running, stopping and generally in a good, safe & sound driving condition.......even a quick but tidy paint job to stop any surface rust will not only help it and show it you care, but more importantly remind you that you are making progress............and btw welcome to the best mopar forum around, these guys know their stuff........regards from sunny Sth Grafton NSW.......Andy Douglas.

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The only terrible thing i see on your car is that very dirty tiny tiny air filter that might be plugged up.

I had one on my 51 plymouth when I was 16 years old... car started going slower and slower... it was that same worthless low capacity teenager cool looking air filter!

Bob

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Dodgeb4ya, on 14 Jan 2015 - 8:17 PM, said:

The only terrible thing i see on your car is that very dirty tiny tiny air filter that might be plugged up.

I had one on my 51 plymouth when I was 16 years old... car started going slower and slower... it was that same worthless low capacity teenager cool looking air filter!

Bob

I had the same low air flow problem until I double stacked.

 

P6240001.jpg

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Thanks for the comments Andy/Kented/Bob/Don - definately focussed on getting this on the road first even if it isn't perfect - would be nice to do a few shows as a before and after sort of thing. Its different enough over here that it will attract a lot of attention anyway.

 

Lol, agree on the air filter, it's even smaller than the one on my 1600cc Buggy!

 

That will get sorted when I tidy up the engine bay generally - full service, carb rebuild, etc. etc. I have a few contacts who are into US military vehicles over here, a lot of which have the Dodge engine so I might be able to dig around and come up with some service parts and engine ideas from there as well.

 

Also tend to visit the States on business once or twice a year so will start compiling a parts list so I can fill my suitcaes on the way back - who needs clothes anyway :)

 

Cheers,

 

Paul.

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Tim & Don.........take your tablets like the Dr says.........lol.......oh.......any spare for me too?...................lol............good morning guys..........andyd

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  • 1 month later...

OK, so having cleared some space and got most of the machine shop/store sorted I can now start looking at the Dodge.


 


First action is to get it roadworthy and that means sorting out the rocker panels.


 


Gonna start with the passenger side and I am after a bit of advice here. The pics below will speak for themselves but basically the outside of the rocker doesn't look to bad. Feels solid although the whole car has had a healthy skim of filler at some point including in the dents! :rolleyes:


 


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The inner rocker panel is another story though, heavily corroded around the body mounts and where the rocker attaches to the footwell.


 


Front:


2015-03-03%2018.50.01_zpsapnv9fm7.jpg


 


Middle:


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Rear:


2015-03-03%2018.51.44_zps1ozppovc.jpg


 


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Inside the cabin the floor has been plated at the front:


2015-03-03%2019.06.46_zpsnov9mmye.jpg


 


And the top of the rocker has been filled:


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Although the back doesn’t look to bad:


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So here is my question: Given the outer rocker doesn’t look that bad I am not keen on cutting the whole rocker panel out. Is it possible to repair the inner rocker with the outer in place by cutting back the floor and working from the top/inside, or am I in dreamland? :P


 


Cheers,


 


Paul.


Edited by mm289
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Any suggestions guys, can I repair the inner rocker without removing the outer rocker?

 

Thanks,

 

Paul.

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Hi MM289

 

I don't see anything all that bad going on in your pictures...maybe a good power wire brush to get down to shiny metal...if you don't see any holes and the metal doesn't feel too thin give it a good coat of rustoleum with a color that is close to what you want on the inside....and run it the way it is...

 

That one patch on the passenger side I would take it back out and re-weld it back in with a solid bead of weld instead of the tar looking stuff. Again a good coat of rustoleum when done...maybe spray some oil on the underside too...."Fluid Film" is pretty good stuff for coating of under carriages...

 

My smelly old 2 cents...

 

MikeC

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Hi Mike, I think its a bit worse than the pics show :huh:

 

Will clean it up first to see but i prefer to replace rather than patch, unless i'm pleasantly surprised.

 

Only way i can see to get access to the inner rocker is from above, but will go investigate some more ;)

 

Cheers,

 

Paul.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, so started work on repairing the passenger side rocker panel this weekend. Removed the front seat and the inner fender to get better access. May have to remove the wing but that looks like a lot of work so have left in place for the moment.


 


Floor looks like this:


 


2015-03-15%2013.04.27_zpsugp7qsnn.jpg


 


So then removed the patch panels that had been tacked in place and cleaned it all up to start to expose the extent of the rot.


 


You can see where the floor has gone over the front outrigger and also at the front of the footwell where it meets the inner fender area.


 


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I was just going to cut out and replace along the rocker but there was also some small holes in the rest of the floor and experience has told me it takes longer to try and fill all these than it does to make a new panel. So out with the plasma and air saw and we then have a big hole!


 


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The bulk of the outrigger is in really good shape except where it meets the rocker (which is pretty much the same story on all of them)


 


2015-03-15%2020.05.19_zpsi2l4rcm4.jpg


 


There is also some repair needed in the box where the rocker meets the inner fender area and back along the top and inside of the rocker itself.


 


2015-03-15%2020.05.33_zps7ubj6z33.jpg


 


The plan at the moment is to rebuild the rocker panel in 2 or more pieces (top and inner) and slide this in behind where the outrigger joins.


 


2015-03-15%2020.05.33%20Edited_zpsrtcpzt


 


Then make good the end of the outrigger and drop in the replacement floor panel. Fair bit of metal shaping to be done to get that all to fit but that’s the plan anyway!


 


The rest of the outer rocker is pretty solid apart from a few lumps of bondo where the locating holes for the trim have been filled. Also there has been some work done on the lower panel behind the door and this has been "blended" in with a load of bondo as well. The sides on this will probably be smooth rather than refit the original trim so I will do a bit of panel beating/pulling and lead work to get the metal straight again so it only needs a very thin skim of filler before paint.


OK, so started work on repairing the passenger side rocker panel this weekend. Removed the front seat and the inner fender to get better access. May have to remove the wing but that looks like a lot of work so have left in place for the moment.


 


2015-03-15%2020.10.25_zpsksd3m29s.jpg


 


You can just about see from this pic how the panel has been gathering rust under the bondo (as its porous) so in the fullness of time the whole thing will need bare metalling, but that can wait till I have time to do a full frame of resto!


 


That’s all for this weekend!


 


Cheers,


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Overall 33ft by 18ft but it has to accomodate 3 working bays, so no its not big enough :(  mind you i dont think any workshop is as you just acquire more projects to fill it :P

 

cheers,

 

Payl

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Quick question. Where the rocker meets the front fender, the fender is proud by about 1/4". Is this normal? Would the rocker chrome trim cover this or can you pull the wing in?

2015-03-03%2018.49.37_zps5jmjhu9t.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Paul.

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