vance1234 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vance1234 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Sorry for only being able to put one picture per post. the white cab and frame is the one I would like to use, along with the white bed with primer and rust fenders. I would like to use the doors from the grey truck because I like the looks of the door without the vent windows, but I am not sure if they will fit. I also included a picture of the rear leaf spring issue I was talking about. just wondering if this will be a major issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 1. the doors will be interchangeable. The only differences in the doors between the B1/2 and B3/4 is the crease length in the door and how the interior of the door looks. Functionally they are the same. 2. yes that would be an issue on the rear shackle. Hopefully it is only the bushing wore out and not the whole mount/shackle. There are SOME limited options for replacing mounts, shackles and bushings. Check thru the classifieds for parts or Epay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 You do not need to swap doors. Just remove the optional vent window hardware and fit the larger glass and seals for the standard doors. Hang on to the hardware though as someone else may want it. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 if per Jeff's post you'd also need to cut out some metal of the door where the vent window pivots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Leibhart Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Sounds easier to just switch the doors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vance1234 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Thanks guys. I appreciate all the info. I looked at what I am calling the u-bolt looking thing on all 3 trucks and the other 2 trucks look worse than this one. I think it has had it. Does somebody have a picture of one that had been removed that I could see. I am blessed to work at a local community college which has a machinest shop which can make most anything if they just have the dimensions. Is there any type of rubber that went in there or was it just metal on metal? Thanks again for all the info and please do not stop. These trucks are located about 15 miles from my house. I am going to get the white truck on the trailer hopefully this Thursday and bring it to the house so I can start working on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 if per Jeff's post you'd also need to cut out some metal of the door where the vent window pivots. You are correct. No point in cutting up one of these doors if you already have the other type to swap in. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 the "U-bolt" as you call it is a (drop) forged part, I don't know if a machined part will have the required strength. They are actually called shackles. I know i have some around for sale as well as the bushings for them in the classified section. Metal on metal with lots of GREASE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Yes the shackle is available new. Its the frame mount that can be tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vance1234 Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 The frame mount looks ok, but who knows what all I will find. There is also an old Dodge sweptline truck, I wonder if the rear shackle on it could be modified to work on it? Thanks ggdad1951, I will keep you in mind once I get to that part. I will take some pictures once I get it home and will have 1000 more questions to bug you guys with. I did not notice a canister for the drop in paper oil filter. Was an oil filter an option back then? What weight oil do you guys run in it? Since I plan on keeping it 6 volt, would it be best to get a 6 volt or 8 volt battery? Does anybody know the part number for the fan belt? The belt is still on there but it feels like if you give it a good enough tug it would break. Would it be Ok to just start it with a 12 volt battery just to get it running or would that damage something? And the list of questions will continue! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Probably actually a sock filter. Get a 6V battery. If the condition of the sweptline is good you should post the info for potential interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 The frame mount for your shackle can be found at the following place: http://www.srpmstreetrods.com/srpm/1939-47-dodge-truck-1939-41-plymouth-truck-rear-shackle-hanger-ea--ff8080813da289a3013ddae2fad529b6-p.html That's where I got the ones for my '52 B3b. They are for the older model dodge trucks but they are the same and fit/ work well. Good luck. -Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conroe Powdercoating Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Robert's Motors and Steele Rubber sell the window gaskets. I bought from Roberts and the fit was horrible at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 The window rubber from Steele is an excellent fit but not inexpensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 It's less expensive to buy a product that fits properly than to buy simply on cost, find it doesn't fit well, end up dissatisfied, rant on the product and poor quality of aftermarket products, then buy the good one. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I bought from Roberts and the fit was horrible at best. Roberts should have stuck with selling condoms. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Leibhart Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I used Steele Rubber for all the window gaskets also. After reading all the horror stories on the forum, I wanted the best product available for the window gaskets. But I did use Robert's rubber parts for the remaining interior parts (door rubber, vent window rubber, etc.). I was satisfied with these parts and considerably cheaper than Steele Rubber. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I did all my own glass replacement. And I wasn't impressed with the fit of the Steele products or their customer service. Way over priced. I ended up using the vent window rubber from Roberts and it fit perfect. So opinions and experiences differ. Not saying Roberts is perfect..........just that paying more isn't always the answer. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I had a problem with quality /finish/look on the rear window rubber .Called them about it and they sent another right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Forum member Bob VanBuskirk told me he will use nothing but Steel Rubber on his woody. So I took his advice when I needed a new brake light gasket. When I got the gasket it was hard as a rock and not pliable. I made the mistake of trying to force the lens in and cracked and destroyed the lens. I reported this to Steel and my report fell on deaf ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I bitch and bitch.. and bitch more till I get the service/ parts I was promised if there is a problem. I never just let it go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Yes that seems to be the only way these days. I think with rubber products some of the issues may be batch related. That and how long they have been laying about? For what it is worth I think the compound that Steele uses for the Pilothouse windshield gasket is too soft. I had a dickens of a time getting it sealed up water tight. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vance1234 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Well, we got the truck to the house today. There is a tube, almost looks like the dipstick tube, that comes out of the engine block just to the right of the distributor cap. It appears to be an open tube and not capped off in anyway. I know it was not meant for a dipstick because the dipstick is to the left of the distributor. Can anybody tell me what this is? I will be getting a 6 volt battery in the next couple of weeks and see if we can get her started. Thanks again for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 car engines had the dipstick tube through the block, truck engines had the dipstick tube on the side of the oil pan. I have a '55 Plymouth 230 in my '48 1/2 ton, but it has been converted to a truck oil pan + dipstick with the car exhaust manifold. Ya might want to verify the engine ya have before ordering any parts, ya might have a hodge-podge of years cobbled together for a workable flathead (see the Flathead Identification link in my signature) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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