Young Ed Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Hank this is all you need. You can see its ground down a little to clear the axle housing bolts. You pull the drum and brakes. Remove the backing plate. Put the PVC over the axle and then use the drum and the axle nut to pull it apart. If its a really stubborn one you might need 1-2 extra washers. Oh be and be careful with any shims that might be in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I've also had good luck pulling axles using Ed's method, but with deep sockets set over the backing plate studs, as spacers, and up against the drum. You just need to be able to push against the axle housing and pull on the axle shaft. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Thanks everone for the Homebrew Solutions. Fernando that tool is something special. I now understand the physics now I have to come up with a fixture. Important Question: Statement (T) of (F) 1. It is not necessary to disconnect anything other than the axles first to be able to remove the pumkin. Thanks, Hank P.S. Ed, thanks do you remember off hand the diameter of the PVC ? double thanks Edited January 3, 2015 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 F...you must aslo remove the bolts to the pumpkin/axle housing.. the removal of the axles themselves is a process that is quite involved....due mainly to the taper axle integral hub/drum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Ok, maybe he should REMOVE the fluid by draining it before removing the bolts. Captain Obvious contest? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Captain Obvious says remove the wheels also.....which would require removing lug nuts(bolts) and the you got to remove the hubcap before that.....oh wait you need to remove the jack from storage...etc etc etc...can this be pushed into a stand up comedy routine....lol Edited January 3, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks everone for the Homebrew Solutions. Fernando that tool is something special. I now understand the physics now I have to come up with a fixture. Important Question: Statement (T) of (F) 1. It is not necessary to disconnect anything other than the axles first to be able to remove the pumkin. Thanks, Hank P.S. Ed, thanks do you remember off hand the diameter of the PVC ? double thanks It's been quite a while since I measured it but 4" seems to come to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edrowesuave Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 I found a 1993 S10 2.8 with a T-5. Do you think it will work and can I use my clutch? Hey 4mula-dlx I checked out the adapter kit and it looks like a spacer that goes on the input shaft,is that the right kit? I'm thinking of doing the tranny and rear end swap together so I will be ready to roll! My New Year resolution is to drive the tires off this old truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Edrowesuave, on 07 Jan 2015 - 11:02 AM, said: My New Year resolution is to drive the tires off this old truck! use fewer lug nuts and do not torque..mission will be accomplished quickly.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 I found a 1993 S10 2.8 with a T-5. Do you think it will work and can I use my clutch? Hey 4mula-dlx I checked out the adapter kit and it looks like a spacer that goes on the input shaft,is that the right kit? I'm thinking of doing the tranny and rear end swap together so I will be ready to roll! My New Year resolution is to drive the tires off this old truck! Yes you should be getting a spacer for the throw out bearing, a spacer for the input shaft and a pilot bushing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Your clutch pressure plate should work. Your clutch disc will not work unless the spline count on the T-5 is the same as your original transmission. I do suggest you get your pressure plate refurbished and the flywheel re-surfaced. Does the T-5 you found have an electronic speedometer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) I found a 1993 S10 2.8 with a T-5. Do you think it will work and can I use my clutch? Hey 4mula-dlx I checked out the adapter kit and it looks like a spacer that goes on the input shaft,is that the right kit? I'm thinking of doing the tranny and rear end swap together so I will be ready to roll! My New Year resolution is to drive the tires off this old truck! Should be the same t-5, just look to see if it has a gear/cable speedo output, or is it a magnet type set up for electronic speedometer? I think you can switch it either way. The kit has a large ring to make up the size difference in bell housimg and trans, and a new pilot bushing to centre the input shaft, and bearing bushing.You use the original S-10 clutch disc with your stock pressure plate and flywheel, and Don is 100%, resurface your flywheel first, the pressure plate I didn't do, but it was in great shape. Honestly tho...it's not easy to get the flywheel off with the motor in I found....and of course that has to come off to get the bell housing out to weld and drill Edited January 7, 2015 by 4mula-dlx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I found a 1993 S10 2.8 with a T-5. Do you think it will work and can I use my clutch? Hey 4mula-dlx I checked out the adapter kit and it looks like a spacer that goes on the input shaft,is that the right kit? I'm thinking of doing the tranny and rear end swap together so I will be ready to roll! My New Year resolution is to drive the tires off this old truck! Ed, Slow down a bit...I mean would you drive a shopping cart at 85? When do you think you'll be driving the tires off this old truck ? Good to have the two above aformentioned items, but what about brakes? Suspension ? You said it yourself "This Old Truck" the end, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Well rear end swap means decent brakes there, but yes....I'd look at the front disc swap, and the dual master cylinder upgrade. Even easier to do if you have the fenders off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Well rear end swap means decent brakes there, but yes....I'd look at the front disc swap, and the dual master cylinder upgrade. Even easier to do if you have the fenders off I forget who but someone said the disc brakes work fine with the stock single master cylinder. I'd like to hear more pro's and con's on this topic. Links to other threads ? Thanks, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I'm still running a stock, single chamber, master cylinder on my truck with Rusty Hope disc brake conversion up front. I didn't add any residual valves and it all works quite fine for me. Some may argue that I'm tempting fate, but it works for me. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I would say you are tempting fate as well, the pressures for the discs used and that of the stock drums are quite different I would imagine, and a proportioning valve is pretty important for discs. Also a single reservoir leaves open the opportunity of a brake leak causing loss of all 4 brakes, vs front or back with a dual. I can't think of any car with front discs that doesn't have a proportioning valve, there may be some older ones with single reservoir, but that I can't name either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Residual valves and proportioning valves are two different animals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Would I also not be tempting fate by keeping the brakes all stock with a single chamber master cylinder and drum brakes at all 4 corners? At least now when I need to slow, or stop, quickly on the highway I can with confidence. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Merle, the truck master is sitting alongside the bell housing near the starter and I believe above that of the calipers itself...therein there is no need for a residual...for those folks that are placing the master below that of the caliper..residual is needed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Yes Tim. The M/C is just inside the frame rail, and just above any wheel cylinder/caliper, so you are correct with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hank; Any time you tackle something like this type of modification it is best to have a contingency plan. You have to allow for differences in driving conditions and condition of components. Another way to say what I am trying to say is that there is not going to be a "one solution" answer for what you are looking at. When I decided to go for it and swap in an axle with better gearing and brakes I did so with the idea that it isn't prudent to cut corners on something like this. The moment you take a vehicle that is close to topping out at 50 mph or so and give it the ability to cruise at significantly higher top speeds you have to start compensating. As an example I have no idea how you would go about adjusting a modified brake system without a proportioning valve? Might not be a big deal at 25 mph but a panic stop at our freeway speeds could get ugly in a hurry if the system isn't well balanced. I know there are not too many Pilothouse trucks with 4 wheel discs but with this modification an adjustable PV was absolutely essential. I sure was glad to have it already installed when I started testing the brakes. Take your time and read up on everything you can get your hands on. Each mod like this has it's own set of circumstances........and safety not money or what someone else says works needs to be the decision maker. Jeff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edrowesuave Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 I did some research and found out I have a Mopar 8 3/4" rearend.Cast into the driver side of the case is the number 1820657 (1957-1964) identify the smaller 1 3/8th-inch-diameter, 10-spline pinion shaft, and are often called the "741" case.Now to find a replacement axle. My first classic truck was a 53 GMC, I worked on it alot and didn't hardly drive it. This truck I want to drive it more than I work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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