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Rear end swap upgrade


Edrowesuave

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4mula-dlx, on 27 Dec 2014 - 11:42 PM, said:

3:73 I think, I've never actually looked up the tag exactly....may be 3:55, but either way works absolutely great with my T5, I think either or would be just fine with the T5 or original set up, but way better highway cruising with the T 5.

 

What make / model differential are you using and how difficult was the install? What criteria did you use to select your differential and what did you do for a driveshaft? Did you have to modify the spring perches and if so how did you adjust the pinion angle?

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No doubt the T5 is a great way to go. I especially liked the way JohnT53 accomplished the installation. I forget where the T5 comes out of and how hard are they to find and for how much.they cost. Don you are not thinkink about going back to your old rum running days with your car now are you ? I see alot of those moonshiners on TV live down your way.

 

061508thunderroad1e_t607_zpsa4f33541.jpg

 

Hank  :)

Edited by HanksB3B
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What make / model differential are you using and how difficult was the install? What criteria did you use to select your differential and what did you do for a driveshaft? Did you have to modify the spring perches and if so how did you adjust the pinion angle?

Dana 35 from a 1991 Jeep YJ, used it because it measured up very close to the original axle width, and it had newer drum brakes and there was only a couple options for axle ratios in those jeeps. Driveshaft is from a late 80's chevy I believe, can't recall anymore...it had the correct yoke for the manual T5, and fit the YJ yoke, but it was cut and shortened just a few inches to make it fit correctly. I welded on new spring perches, which was pretty easy and the pinion angle was set with a degree gauge that you can find at likely any tool store. Don't recall the degree I used, it's been a few years and many many jobs in between.

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4mula-dlx, on 29 Dec 2014 - 5:28 PM, said:

Dana 35 from a 1991 Jeep YJ, used it because it measured up very close to the original axle width, and it had newer drum brakes and there was only a couple options for axle ratios in those jeeps. Driveshaft is from a late 80's chevy I believe, can't recall anymore...it had the correct yoke for the manual T5, and fit the YJ yoke, but it was cut and shortened just a few inches to make it fit correctly. I welded on new spring perches, which was pretty easy and the pinion angle was set with a degree gauge that you can find at likely any tool store. Don't recall the degree I used, it's been a few years and many many jobs in between.

Thanks, Sounds like a pretty easy install. What size tires (diameter) are you running and at 70MPH how many RPM's is your engine turning?

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You don't need to hide the still if you did what my grandpa did. He made shine with the local Sheriff - when the Feds came around, they set up a different still somewhere else. The Sheriff would lead them to it where they would smash it up, congratulate each other and go home - while grandpa kept the real still running. Everyone was happy.

 

 

The most extensive discussion on rear-end swaps is probably this one here

Edited by TrampSteer
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I have a 51 b3b it has the 218 flathead with 3 on the tree.

My differential went out.I want to put in a replacement rearend that is geared for a 65mph highway speed.Could ya'll give me some suggestions on a good choice for my truck.If I knew what vehicles have the rearend I need that would be very helpfull.

the rear engine ratios are marked on the drive shaft side of the pumpkin. You can look for other ratios and just swap the pumpkins. There is a pretty wide range of years you can swap from.  There are 5 speed with 5th being overdrive that were in 1952 -1959 trucks. Typically the 3 ton and heavier trucks. The trannys are may or may be tougher to find depending on where you are, and you would be moving to a floor shift.  And finally you can with a bit of work use a 3 speed overdrive

transmission from a 1952-56 plymouth, which gives you 33% overdrive, and you can put them in the truck. I have one in my 1956 pickup that my Dad put it.

 

The key is finding an overdrive. I most certainly have a great source to rebuild one if you can find one for your project.

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I'll be pulling the rear end tomorrow.It's suppose to be a 61 Plymouth rear  in my 51 b3b.

It looks alot like the one in Hanksb3b pictures. By the way Hank is it easy to swap out the pumpkins.I mean do you have to know what your doing?or can I simply unbolt and swap pumpkins.

When I was driving up my steep driveway the rear stopped working,the shaft turns but the wheels don't.

Does anyone have an idea of what may have broke?.

Ed

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I'll be pulling the rear end tomorrow.It's suppose to be a 61 Plymouth rear  in my 51 b3b.

It looks alot like the one in Hanksb3b pictures. By the way Hank is it easy to swap out the pumpkins.I mean do you have to know what your doing?or can I simply unbolt and swap pumpkins.

When I was driving up my steep driveway the rear stopped working,the shaft turns but the wheels don't.

Does anyone have an idea of what may have broke?.

Ed

 

YIKES up a Steep Drivway Fail that's very scary. It would be a strange coinsidence that your 4.11 decided to get back at you because you are thinking of swapping it out. Sounds more like a Steven King movie called "Pilothouse". 

 

I need some help too. In order to remove the pumkin you have to remove the axle. Last week Rod scored a beautiful wheel puller at a local swapmeet, I saw what looked like a long cone shaped wheel puller and after I saw Tool C-499-A in the book I realized what I had seen was an axle puller. I went back yesterday and of course it was gone...

 

There is a real good differential shop around but I know if I take it there he'll talk some sense into me and I'll end up shelling out a lot of hard earned money to do it right. What I'm really hoping for is to examine the pumkin, show it to a couple of guys around town in the know and look for wear to see if my 3.54 was from granma & granpa's old Dodge or was it out of Vin Diesels last movie. 

 

If you PM me with your email adress I will send you the complete section from the Truck Manual (it's under 4mb) if it'll help you out.\

 

P-36_zps77f46e81.jpg

Happy New Year to all,

 

Hank  :D

Edited by HanksB3B
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I missed Dons follow up, I run 15" wheels, about a 265/50/15 rear..can't remember off the top of my head, and the rims are buried hiding from the welding etc in the shop. On the highway at 60mph in 5th I would be about 2100 rpm with the T5 and YJ rear diff,

Been in the shop mocking up my power steering and today mounted my new leather bucket seats....now to figure out the nightmare of the power seat wiring.

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What I'm really hoping for is to examine the pumkin, show it to a couple of guys around town in the know and look for wear to see if my 3.54 was from granma & granpa's old Dodge or was it out of Vin Diesels last movie. 

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year to all,

 

Hank  :D

 

Hank rotate the pinion and watch for slack. You should be able to see/feel how long you turn the pinion before the ring gear turns. If the gears look ok and there is minimal slack I would just install it.

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4mula-dlx, on 31 Dec 2014 - 3:21 PM, said:

I missed Dons follow up, I run 15" wheels, about a 265/50/15 rear..can't remember off the top of my head, and the rims are buried hiding from the welding etc in the shop. On the highway at 60mph in 5th I would be about 2100 rpm with the T5 and YJ rear diff,

Been in the shop mocking up my power steering and today mounted my new leather bucket seats....now to figure out the nightmare of the power seat wiring.

Your rear tires have a 25.43 diameter. With a 30% reduction in 5th gear your engine would be spinning about 2100 RPM's at 60 MPH with 3.73 rear gears.

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I got it out!

There was a key keeping the wheel and axle together. It was ground up into metal shavings.

On the side of the diff case it has 1820657 there is a tag that has 363 on it.

I'm guessing the 363 is the gear ratio.I was told this rearend came out of 61 Plymouth.

I'm thinking of either replacing the axle if I can find one.

Or find a replacement rear that is the same size.I don't want to change my driveshaft.

Does any one know what the numbers on this differential case meen?

post-7467-0-34926900-1420156510_thumb.jpg

post-7467-0-78037500-1420156529_thumb.jpg

post-7467-0-42410500-1420156576_thumb.jpg

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I have never seen a ratio cast onto an axle housing..so I do not think that is correct..further....I looked it up for the era that you state the unit may have originated and the ratios for then are 3.31; 2.93 for 6 cylinder cars and V8's are 3.58; 2.76  you should find a metal tag on axle or possibly look for the ratio or gear count to be stamped on the top of the boss..if these are not found then you may want to pop the hog head and do a tooth count..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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That's what I'm doing today !

 

At:

 

2015-01-02_1011_zps7aeb9e1c.png

 

My brother-in-law Carlos and I are heading that way. Best way I can describe it is like Twilight Zone; in this adventure you pass thru a time portal into 1950...Hoping it checks out o.k. Hoping for seals, gaskets and slight adjusting only) 

DSCN1416.jpg

 

Maybe I'll video the process if it feels right to do certainly some photos will do the trick too..

 

Hey Edrowesuave unanswer this thread we ainn't nowhere's near done yet.

 

Happy New Gear Ratio Year ! Wish me Luck Too !

 

Hank  :)

Edited by HanksB3B
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Hopefully it all works out a simple job for you Hank. I checked back on some information from they guys who changed my 4.1 center for my 3.54 center recently. They talked about changing the planetary gears, but I don't think that was required as it appears that both diffs had the same spline count. Maybe the 1955 car diff was the perfect match? I do know that they used the truck axles (and housing) as the car diff was shorter in length by about 2 inches.

I'm actually off to collect another one (or 2) 3.54 car (1955) diffs tomorrow. It seems that the fella who has them wants a 4.1 or 3.9 for his vehicle as he believes them to be better towing ratios. What a predicament hey - he has a few 3.54 diffs and doesn't want them and I have nine spare 4.1 diffs and don't need them!

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I'm waiting on the forum support to send me directions on how to unanswer this thread.I may have accidentally tagged it answered.

 

Oh that's totally cool and we have great moderators onboard that read our stuff and work for the good of the herd. I may have overlooked it but I think it was done for us already.

 

Today was a bust ! We got there too late somewhere after 2:00pm and the communication wasn't spot on (didn't reach the boss) so I would have had to leave it overnight which was not an option. So it's back on Carlos's driveway on jack stands. Plan "B" is now in effect which means I get to build/fabricate/improvise a method. All was not lost though as the owner did instruct me on how to do it. 

 

Opinion Wanted ! (I'm not a mechanical genius)

 

Does anyone think that the removal tool shown in Figure 5 Removing Bearing from Axle Drive Shaft Tool C-293-D can be used instead of Tool C-499-A or do you think first you have to perform Step (5) Remove axle shaft and bearing and then perform the procedure show in Figure 5 (lower right corner of page).

 

I can think of a few people on the Forum that I'd swear have pulled an axle. I'm in bad shape ! For the life of me I can't figure out what holds them in,

 

Help ! (everything is rocket science the first time)

 

:confused:  Hank  :)

 

P-36_zps77f46e81.jpg

Edited by HanksB3B
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