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Is this 1953 fuel pump diagphragm ok?


Geekay

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There are also two little check valves in the top of the pump, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. How do those look?

 

I don't see any tears in your diaphragm, but if you don't know how old it is you might want to replace it anyway. Pumps built or rebuild more than maybe 20 or 30 years ago have materials in them that modern gas additives destroy. So even if an old pump works now it may be very likely to fail in the near future. Then and Now Automotive (a.k.a. Antique Auto Parts Cellar) has good quality rebuild kits.

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I'll 2nd what Todfitch said.  If it was running before you took it apart, and the check valves aren't stuck or plugged up, check the gasket in the sediment bowl to make sure it is sealing properly.  Also make sure that the pivot pin on the actuating arm on the pump isn't broken.  You may also want to take the gas cap off the tank and try blowing back through the line that runs to the pump to see if you can hear bubbling in the tank, or for leaks in the gas line or at one of the connections.   While you've got the pump apart I'd throw a kit in it with the newer materials.   Mike

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rebuild the pump...plain and simple.  For reasons stated above.  My fuel pump took a dump this last summer after only about 500 miles on the rebuild...I KNOW there is a tear in the diaphragm, but I can't find it visually, so "looking" at it won't allow you to see a tear for sure.

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There are also two little check valves in the top of the pump, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. How do those look?

 

I don't see any tears in your diaphragm, but if you don't know how old it is you might want to replace it anyway. Pumps built or rebuild more than maybe 20 or 30 years ago have materials in them that modern gas additives destroy. So even if an old pump works now it may be very likely to fail in the near future. Then and Now Automotive (a.k.a. Antique Auto Parts Cellar) has good quality rebuild kits.

So far as I know it i sthe original..but had been sitting idle for 20 years.

The valves..will check them over. Thanks for link to Then and Now.

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I'll 2nd what Todfitch said.  If it was running before you took it apart, and the check valves aren't stuck or plugged up, check the gasket in the sediment bowl to make sure it is sealing properly.  Also make sure that the pivot pin on the actuating arm on the pump isn't broken.  You may also want to take the gas cap off the tank and try blowing back through the line that runs to the pump to see if you can hear bubbling in the tank, or for leaks in the gas line or at one of the connections.   While you've got the pump apart I'd throw a kit in it with the newer materials.   Mike

The gasket was broken but I thought still sealing. Hav made a new one.  Thanks.

Had done you said about blowing the tank and the pressure did have fuel coming out the pipe at the fuel pump end.

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rebuild the pump...plain and simple.  For reasons stated above.  My fuel pump took a dump this last summer after only about 500 miles on the rebuild...I KNOW there is a tear in the diaphragm, but I can't find it visually, so "looking" at it won't allow you to see a tear for sure.

Thanks.  Good advice.

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Another issue I noticed was that the return spring on the lever was loose and fell out of place when the lever was able to fully extend when pump removed.

Is this usual?

It means I will have to put a little pressure on the lever to hold the spring in place when I re-install the pump.

I tried to stretch the spring but did not work and do not want to break it.

 

I have bought a diagphram kit which has 2 valves also but I do not think it contains a new spring.

Thanks to Davin who found this for me on Ebay about time spares in Aus.

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you can verify the cam lobe travel with a dial indicator mounted through the block...the fuel pump lever rides on that lobe and only travels so far to engage the diaphragm link.  The last time I installed a fuel pump, I recall that the lever had to be partially depressed on the cam lobe so the pump flange would contact the block, possibly because the spring I had was on the long side.  If you're concerned about dropping the spring into the oil pan during installation, you could put a dab of heavy grease on the end of the spring at the lever arm to make it stick in place :cool:

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I got a new fuel pump from NAPA for about $50.00.  I did not have to rebuild and it was guaranteed to work.

Damn! In Aus a new fuel pump $119.00 plus post, say $20.00.

Better get one from US before the aussie dollar crashes further.  We were parity but now about $0.80c

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yah, the spring should NOT fall out period.  If you order new parts to rebuild I think they come with a new spring.

 

After rebuilding a pump from Antique Auto Parts Cellar I also found the spring, that came in the kit, to be a bit short and would fall out unless the arm was held up a bit. When I asked them about it I was assured that the spring was correct and that it would be fine once it was installed. This pump is now my spare, so I have to be careful that it doesn't get lost in as it is stored in it's "safe place".

 

Merle

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I did the same thing Jeff did. Put in an electric pump. I drive mine too much to fool around with the mechanical. I left in on although I do have a plate to cover if the pump is not replaced. My pump goes on with the ignition key.

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