Eric T Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks Casper 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 you're welcome. nice car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Windlass, or windlace. Quoting Chevy Chase: "220, 221, whatever works." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I believe you are correct don. I was in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 DonaldSmith, on 05 Feb 2015 - 07:57 AM, said:Windlass, or windlace. Quoting Chevy Chase: "220, 221, whatever works." Mr Mom....Michael Keaton.....one funny little dude...he was hilarious in Multiplicity... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Alright I have spark(nice blue), fuel is good and the timing is on. It acts like it is going to start then just turns over not sounding like its firing. I noticed when I took of the distributor cap off that the little button was gone so I replaced the cap. My first question...What would cause that and what could be my issue as far as starting is concerned. Please help it is a beautiful day in Georgia and I was really looking forward to going for a ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 All the dist. caps i,ve dealt with the center contact is spring loaded. The contact has a nipple that the spring pops over and the cap itself has a ridge to retain the spring with the contact on it. It you drag the cap too close to to rotor as it's installed the parts can be pulled out of the cap by the rotor. Happened several times to me over the years. Make sure the spring And contact did not end up inside the dist. Found most of mine somehow ended up on the floor below car. Try to start it now, may have been the problem. Best of luck! DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Thanks for the response. I didn't see the parts in the distributor and replaced the cap. It still acts the same way almost like the spark disappears. I checked the coil with a test light and when cranking it the test light blinks so I assume it good. I'm at my wits end right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 How did you check the static timing? Are your spark plugs clean and gapped correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 How did you check the static timing? Are your spark plugs clean and gapped correctly? I replaced the plugs and set the gap at 35. I brought it around to top dead center and pulled the cap and the rotor was pointed to the number 1 cylinder. I even checked the points and they were still at 20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I would close to ensure that I have the correct cap and rotor for the very distributor you have in that engine..order /verify by model number located on distributor tag... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I would close to ensure that I have the correct cap and rotor for the very distributor you have in that engine..order /verify by model number located on distributor tag... Thanks for the advice. I will have a cup of coffee and check that afterwords. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Eric T, on 08 Feb 2015 - 6:15 PM, said:Thanks for the advice. I will have a cup of coffee and check that afterwords. left out a key word... I WOULD LOOK CLOSE..........hope I did not confuse you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Try: 1- hook a voltmeter to the coil , ign. - on read voltage, leave connected, crank motor, should only drop a small bit. Results? 2- did not see that the condenser was ever replaced.? Bad condenser possible. 3- Check wires in the dist. between the points/condenser/ wire to coil for shorts. 4- Install fuel pressure gauge at carb. Make sure it does Not change as cranked/running. Most vacuum gauges are also low pressure pressure gauges. Just some fairly easy ideas. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 This is my Distributor# 1120566 The cap is BWD C123. The Condenser is BWD G136 The points are BWD D103 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 This is my Distributor# 1120566 The cap is BWD C123. The Condenser is BWD G136 The points are BWD D103 As far as I can tell these seem to be correct for the year but I don't know how to tell if they are correct for my particular distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 IT IS RUNNING. Those two little wires in the Distributor were the culprits. When I got home from work early I immediately pulled the Distributor, removed the wires covered the bare spots with electrical tape. Put the Distributor back in and fired up first try. Thanks for all the replies I really appreciate them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 It ran for about 10 minutes and have not been able to get it to start again. I filled up the tank the last time I drove it but just to be safe I will take a couple cans to the gas station and make sure the tank is full. I am getting spark, I am still getting a good amount of fuel in a gas jar and I am now completely dejected about this. Someone please help me get this car running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 If I were you, I would replace those wires. Putting electrical tape on is just a Band-Aid. If the edges of the tape catch against the centrafical advance plate, it could pull the tape off or pull the wire loose. If it started and ran after you taped it, chances are it might be the culprit again. I know how frustrating it can be working a simple problem that isn't, but just relax, take a break, listen to some music and try again later. I work part time at a Polaris dealer as a mechanic on ATV's and UTV's. On Wensday and Thursday I spent several hours trying to fix a unit that wouldn't charge the battery. After replacing the voltage regulator (1 hour), the mag coil (4 hours, had to pull the engine mount bolts and rotate the engine to get the flywheel cover and flywheel off) and the control unit (10 minutes), and ohming out various wiring harnesses (2 hours) plus tracing out the wires on the schematics (1 hour) turns out that the VR has to be grounded to the engine to charge the battery. Talk about felling stupid, but in my defense the manual says nothing on changing the coil. Anyway, just realize that the same stuff happens to all of us at one point or another. Don't believe me just read some of the threads posted here. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I replaced the taped up wires with wires from Mitchells Motor Parts. I appreciate the encouragement. I am not messing with the car tomorrow at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 The brand new BWD condenser was the problem. After reading about what a condenser does and what happens when they go bad. One of the signs was intermittent spark. I pulled the #1 plug out and hit the button for a few revolutions and noticed it only firing every other time it was supposed to. I put the one back in that I replaced when I did the points and it started right up. I let it run in the garage for 10 minutes then had fun driving it around the neighborhood. What is the recommendation for a good condenser brand. I want to have an assembled extra breaker plate in the car but want a good reliable brand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Eric T, on 15 Feb 2015 - 6:31 PM, said:I pulled the #1 plug out and hit the button for a few revolutions and noticed it only firing every other time it was supposed to. How did you determine it was firing every other time? This is a 4 stroke engine. The spark plug fires once for every two crankshaft revolutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kented Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Should look like this when not broken. Thanks for this picture. I'm opening mine up on the 28th and have my rebuilt kit ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric T Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 It's supposed to spark every time pressure is expelled out of the #1 cylinder right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 yes and no, cylinder is coming up on compression and exhaust and will produce pressure and it will come out wherever it can including the spark plug hole. Compression should be the stronger of the two pressures and if by chance the exhaust valve is stuck open or partly open, you may not feel much difference between compression and exhaust. That would give you the scenario of firing every other time you think it should. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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