Jeff Balazs Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Hopefully the original poster understands that there should be a set of proper engine mounts in place. They are designed to dampen vibration and control rotational forces. They are present to prevent stress fractures at the mounting points and accelerated wear on key drive line components like the clutch and U joints. I can't think of a road vehicle that doesn't use this principal in it's basic design. Jeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Hopefully the original poster understands that there should be a set of proper engine mounts in place. They are designed to dampen vibration and control rotational forces. They are present to prevent stress fractures at the mounting points and accelerated wear on key drive line components like the clutch and U joints. I can't think of a road vehicle that doesn't use this principal in it's basic design. Jeff Very much agreed and while the mounts aren't available down the street from your local auto place they are readily available to be ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 I hope that the posters that feel their way is the only way can see past what they don't know, and what they haven't been running and keep remarks to themselves that add nothing to the thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) ...Humph! Well, I took the left bellhousing to frame mount off and dropped the motor a little bit. The transmission slid right into place; easiest alignment I've ever had really. Everything from thr transmission to bellhousing looks good. Now for the bad part... I'm hitting the cross member again and cannot bring the left housing to frame mount back together. I'm going to look for front motor mount pictures here shortly to make sure everything is in like it's supposed to be. Currently I have metal meeting metal for the motor cradle to frame mount. This might be wrong?? Is there supposed to be some rubber between those two? That would give me just the right amount of slope to line everything up (i think), I remember my setup having tight clearance in this same area. I had to rotate the tranny 90 degrees to facilitate its mating to the bellhousing, but then was able to turn it upright after full insertion and it cleared. My mounts were all in; perhaps you just need to cinch down your bolts and squish the rubber a little? Another thing, you could also vertically elongate the bolt holes in your rear mount brackets to drop 'er down a tad... Did you check your frame rails for straightness? Edited November 26, 2014 by John-T-53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 gtech636p, on 23 Nov 2014 - 8:35 PM, said: I'm going to look for front motor mount pictures here shortly to make sure everything is in like it's supposed to be. Currently I have metal meeting metal for the motor cradle to frame mount. This might be wrong?? Is there supposed to be some rubber between those two? That would give me just the right amount of slope to line everything up (i think), Here is a photo of a correct front engine mount. Metal to metal where the cradle bolts to the frame is correct. The rubber piece comes into play where the cradle bolts to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 In this photo you can see where the rubber donut goes for the rear engine mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 That cross member is removable. It may just need to be removed to install the trans. I can't remove or install my transmission without removing it. You'll need to drop the fuel tank and then remove the cross member. On my truck, with FD and a 4 speed, the park brake drum is real close to the cross member so there's no room to move it rearward for removal without removing said cross member. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 But with the T 5 you should have the room to install with everything in place, I can see the stock possibly being different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtech636p Posted November 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Welp, it seems like I have the mounts right.... Honestly, the crossmember looks bad on the back side, so I'm already going to be doing some rust repair. It's not too much more to cut a slot in there and weld in some stock and gives me an excuse to play with the new plasma cutter a bit more. I'd rather do that than find out my frame rails are bent a little bit. It may sound stupid, but I'd like to remain blissfully ignorant of that issue. I will agree that the frameside mounts squished a bit when tightened down. I'll give that a shot tomorrow and see how it goes. Other than that it's time to cut and weld up a bit of stuff (not just this little bit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 So if your needing to cut to make the trans go in, what is it going to be like with the driveshaft installed? It's just strange that it's gone in on a lot of other member rides without cutting? I'm just curious if something else is off, and you may save yourself some fab time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 As the issue seems to be with the transmission input shaft sliding into the pilot bushing I have a couple questions. Is your input shaft the same size as the pilot bushing? Did you measure the pilot bushing and the input shaft to insure it will fit? Did you use any lubricant on the pilot bushing? The bushing is made from sintered Bronze that is oil impregnated and grease should never be used. I have heard tell of folks packing the bushing hole full of grease. If this was done it will prevent the input shaft from properly seating and also lead to premature failure of the pilot bushing. To further explain the pack full of grease issue this is an old trick used to remove the pilot bushing from the crankshaft. Pack it full of grease, and find a piece of metal that fits snugly in the hole. Tap that piece with a hammer and it will hydraulically force the pilot bushing out of the crankshaft. But grease should never be used as a lubricant on the pilot bushing. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 I got to thinking some more about this and recalled that there was an issue with some of these upper rear mounts a while back. Seems that some being sold were too tall. Sure enough there was a post by DollyDodge back in 2012 showing the different ones. This difference in height was about 3/8" (too tall) and I wonder if that might be what is causing the interference at the bolt in cross member? Looking at the photos you posted it does appear as if the rear mounts might be riding a bit too high.....but it is very hard to tell from the angle in this photo. I do know that Chrysler engineers were very proud of this mounting system and it was touted as being the best in the light truck market of the period. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 .....snip.... The bushing is made from sintered Bronze that is oil impregnated and grease should never be used. I have heard tell of folks packing the bushing hole full of grease. If this was done it will prevent the input shaft from properly seating and also lead to premature failure of the pilot bushing....snip.... What is the recommended lube on the bushing? I used a little grease on mine, and after a short while it was making funny noises. Previously I used grease on another bushing and after removing it after about 3000 miles, all the grease was gone and the bushing was toast. I couldn't figure out why it didn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 What is the recommended lube on the bushing? John-T-53, on 28 Nov 2014 - 12:48 PM, said: Soak it in light oil overnight and install it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 Soak it in light oil overnight and install it. Or if you want to do it the original factory way, pull a vacuum on it while soaking in light oil to pull the air out and, once the vacuum is removed, pull the oil in. After that it should be lubricated for life. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Engine mounts diagram from truck manual... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Or if you want to do it the original factory way, pull a vacuum on it while soaking in light oil to pull the air out and, once the vacuum is removed, pull the oil in. After that it should be lubricated for life. Good tip... thanks Don and Tod. I'll make a new bushing and lube it correctly next time when I re-do the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtech636p Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Alright, more pictures!!! The new rear top mount measures ~1.75" tall and the old ~ 1.5" tall. I know the square says differently, but it's a speed square and doesn't include the base in the measurement. Is this the correct height or do I need to find another source for these mounts and see what happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 sounds right to me. the old ones has compressed over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 You could use the old ones temporarily to see if that solves your clearance issue at the removable cross member. With the position of these mounts being what it is a 1/4" in height difference of the mount will probably translate into something like 1/2" or so back at this cross member. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Compare to the images in Don's post #13. Looks too tall! edit: not sure why this text is showing up so mall...14 pt. arial. Edited December 8, 2014 by John-T-53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtech636p Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Alright, I took a step back and regrouped. The easy solution was suggested by Ed, and I went with it. While I do agree that everything needs a mount, I have poly mounts in most of the other toys, and that "almost" like running solid mounts anyway. That said, I took about 1/3" from both mounts and rechecked the fitment. I've got ~ 1/16th inch between the crossmember and the tailhousing of the transmission. I'd rather not have to do anything, but this seems a bit better than hacking the crossmember up and welding in a new section. Now I can get to other odds and ends and try to finally start rust repair. Maybe I'll be done in another two years or so... Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Will your driveshaft still fit with so little clearance? I'm pulling my truck back into the shop hopefully today, I'll have to measure the space, it just seems like there should be more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Good to hear it all worked out! And your crossmember was saved! Here are pics from my install - driveshaft was no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Good to hear it all worked out! And your crossmember was saved! Here are pics from my install - driveshaft was no problem. holy cow that is purdy! (drooooooling ) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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