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rear spring bushings, 47 P 15


rockin rebel

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hey guys, I need to replace all the bushings and likley the shackles on the rear of my car..some are just rubber, some are steel with rubber built in..?? one better.? where to get besides ebay.... I am 65 and this is my first Mopar since high school, so not very knowledgeable on this stuff..might need some front suspension parts too, just not yet.. thanks

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forward spring eye gets what is called a silent block..I have not seen a need to repalae those yet in any of my cars that I have inspected...even if you did you would not find it a simple task...them suckers are in there....the rear bushing are however a simple task..easy to obtain...not long ago I posted the Moog number and these are available at any big box parts house...do a search..ought to pop right up...

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I had mine changed in Aug. They can be a pain, mine need a lot of leverage with a long pry bars. I did not think I could do the on the ground, so it went to the shop and on the lift. The guy wrestled with the drivers side for about 30 minutes, the pass side got done in 15. Got the new ones from rock auto for about 12 bucks a side. The ones

I got were all rubber as were the ones that came out.

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Some pics of bad rear spring front pressed in silent block bushings and rear shackle easily replaced rubber bushings.

The silent block front pressed in bushing is best done on a press.

Bob

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Rockin Rebel,

I did mine last year when I was 57, and I'm in pretty good shape (or was then). If I were you I would get a strong helper.

Unless of course you are in good as shape as The Arnold (Schwarzennegar). L.O.L. 

Those babies are in there and you will know what your up against once you get the Leaf Springs off.

Don't forget to take the shocks off both sides (and either disconnect the rear flexible  brake line or prop the rear end up so you don't just snap it off)

when going in. I tried to do one side at a time and couldn't figure out why the spring on one side wouldn't come out until I figured out the whole axle assembly must drop down.

Of course this went on for an hour or so (my first Rear Spring removal) its amazing how ignorant I am sometimes.

It took me all day (In August - 90's out) and I thought I was going to fall down and go boom when I was done. L.O.L.

Tom

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The '39 Plyms have a very similar to the '48 rear shackle.. I did not care for the original shackles so we made up a set that would utilize modern bushings. The shackles are made out of 1/4" plate in the shape of a C, the C shape is required to clear the rear frame crossmenber..

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I changed my silent-block bushings on the car.

 

I took the bolts out, let the axle down a little, then did one side at a time, using a big steel pipe nipple with a thick washer tack-welded on one end, a big greasy bolt and nut, and an old socket.

 

Anyhow, one big wrench and an air impact gun rattled it right out.

 

I just drew the socket through the spring eye, pulling the block into a pipe stub .

 

Reverse the whole business and pull the new one in.

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  I replaced my shackle bushings last week. They are a Harris bushing. Old Mopar packaging show a HB 735. I looked it up at SDTruck Springs, and liked the measurements and squish factor better than the numbers you have been given and that come up at NAPA, which is a HB 850. I used NAPA #274-8735, put in with silicone valve sealant. They were for an early 1946 Plymouth Business Coupe, Special Deluxe. 1 3/4" spring with 2" shackle width. It comes up as fitting Chry., Dodge, Studebaker and 53-54 Chevy Belair. I think the books are wrong with what comes up, so thats how I cross referenced. I'm sure you could find the front bushings the same way. Rick D.

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