1952B3b23 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 That's an expansion plug that's rusted through. Easily replaced and not uncommon in older engines. Replace them all. Thanks for that bit of info. I poked around at it a bit more and it certainly was a rusted through expansion plug. I took a pic of the plug, and a shot of all the crud inside the hole. This thing must have been rusted out for quite a while. On the ring gear, place a cinder block on end then lay the flywheel on top. Use a torch to heat the ring gear and when it expands it should come off easily with a couple of light raps of a mallet. Then wait until the wife is gone shopping and will be gone for a while. Wrap the flyweel in tin foil and put it in the freezer. Then put some more tin foil on the rack of your grill and fire it up with the ring gear inside. Let the flywheel freeze for about 45 min and the ring gear cook for about 20 - 30 min then back to the cinder block. Working quickly, lay the flywheel back on the cinder block, then drop the ring gear back on with the side with good teeth facing the block side of the flywheel. Because the flywheel has shrunken slightly because it was frozen and the ring gear has expanded slightly because it was cooked, the ring gear should simply fall into place. Once the temperatures have normalized the ring gear will be locked in place. At least that is the way I did mine and the wife never has to know what was in her freezer. Thanks, i was not sure how to take off the ring gear and put it back on. That makes a lot of sense. Luckily it's my freezer and not my girlfriends so she cant get to upset over whats in it lol. Gimme $5 and I'll not tell. The check is in the mail haha. If you are just flipping the ring gear heat until it comes off grab with pliers quick and put it back on. Good call, i'll try that. Thanks. I also had a little time today to hook up power to the coil, the carb, and a few other odds and ends to get ready for a test fire of the 218. That will hopefully happen tomorrow. I also swapped the front engine mount off of the engine that was in the car and put it on the 218 that had the truck engine mount. I took a picture of the two for comparison, the truck mount is a little bit bigger and of a different style. Thanks for the help guys, -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkestes41 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 The reason I didn't go with just grabbing it with pliers and flipping it was that I wanted to make sure it was on straight. I was afraid that it could end up a little cock-eyed if if cooled a little before I could get it flipped. Figured with freezing the flywheel and cooking the ring gear it would ensure that the ring would go on completely and have enough play to go on square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 The reason I didn't go with just grabbing it with pliers and flipping it was that I wanted to make sure it was on straight. I was afraid that it could end up a little cock-eyed if if cooled a little before I could get it flipped. Figured with freezing the flywheel and cooking the ring gear it would ensure that the ring would go on completely and have enough play to go on square. Thats a good point there. It really isnt that much extra work to ensure a good fit of the ring gear. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) So i was able to get the engine fired up yesterday. It didnt have to crank over to many times and it started right up. Damn is that old flathead loud as hell with an open header inside of the garage. I did encounter an issue though. As soon as the engine started it didnt idle, it went to wide open throttle. Regardless of what position the throttle lever was in it sounded like it was flat out screaming. Now the carburetor that is on the 218 ci is from the 201 ci that i pulled out of the car. I had just rebuilt it so i decided that i'd put it on the 218 and try starting it. Im wondering if the idle screw was just turned up way to much therefore not letting it idle and making it run wide open right away? When this carb was on the 201 it ran fine but was obviously adjusted to run on that engine. Any ideas guys? I wasn't able to mess with the idle screw and try again cause the fuel line/fuel pump fitting was leaking like crazy. Thanks for any tips and Happy Holidays, -Chris Edited December 24, 2014 by 1952B3b23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 I decided to do a compression test on the 218 ci flathead. I remember back when the motor was in my '52 dodge truck it smoked a good bit so it may need a ring job. I got the compression tester out and set off to work. Heres what i found: Cylinder 1: 80 psi 2: 80 psi 3: 80 psi 4: 80 psi 5: 90 psi 6: 90 psi The service manual says i should be getting any where from 120 - 150 psi of compression. I was happy to see that all the cylinders where pretty uniform. So i poured a wee bit of oil down the spark plug hole on cylinder 1. Let it sit for a little bit and re-tested the compression, i got 105 psi. So it confirms my suspicion that she needs the rings done. I'd like to have the old girl running pretty decent before putting it in to the Plymouth. Thanks for looking, -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 25, 2014 Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 per the factory manual at cranking speed the compression is listed at 105 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 per the factory manual at cranking speed the compression is listed at 105 Hmmmm that's interesting . I was going off of the value that I found in my 1952 B3b truck service manual. I thought that would be pretty close to the 1953 Plymouth car 218 engine specs (I don't have the manual)? I guess even if it's 105 and not 120-150 the compression is still lower than it should be. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 25, 2014 Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 and..for what it is worth, have you compared with a second gauge,,,these things are not calibrated and usually get banged about a bit when using,,a few lbs light is of little concern to and find even across the 6 a better indicator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted December 25, 2014 Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 and..for what it is worth, have you compared with a second gauge,,,these things are not calibrated and usually get banged about a bit when using,,a few lbs light is of little concern to and find even across the 6 a better indicator I have not compared with a second gauge cause i don't have one, but the compression tester is brand new from NAPA auto parts. So i hope it hadn't gotten banged around to much which would throw off its readings. Don: Thanks a lot for posting that, a good bit of info there. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 Since you don't know if the new engine was ever shaved to increase compression, you don't know what the compression should read exactly (regardless of what the wear might be.) Having all 6 cyls within 10 lbs of each other is a very good indicator that there are no serious problems with rings and valves, and the head gasket is still good. That tells you little about the bearings of course, but it's very encouraging.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 Thanks for the comment Ulu. I pulled the head off the engine and the cylinders still look good. The tops of the Pistons tell me that it's been bored over 0.030". I also dropped the pan to have a good look at the internals. Things look nice and clean. Since I was at that point I decided to go ahead and do the rings. I already had the new rings on hand. So I'm in the middle of installing the new ones. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 I assume you ordered .030 over size rings. How did you know what size to order without pulling the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 I assume you ordered .030 over size rings. How did you know what size to order without pulling the head? Yea I had pulled the head prior to ordering the rings. That's how I knew. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 I got 5 of the 6 cylinders back together today and everything is looking good so far. I wasn't able to finish the job because i snapped one of the piston rings trying to put it on. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Do you have a piston ring expander? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Nope i don't. I had my brother helping me and with him holding the piston i was able to spread the ring and work it down to the last groove where it belongs. It worked pretty well for all but one of the rings. I spread it a little to far and "snap"! I had called around on Saturday trying to find an auto parts store with a ring expander in stock but had no luck. I could have waited and ordered the tool but i was to impatient and figured i could get by without. So i tried doing it by hand but i would definitely recommend two people if you're doing it without the tool. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 So i havent posted up my progress lately as i took a little while off to build an english wheel. The piston ring job on the 218 ci is done and the engine back together. I decided to give the engine a coat of VHT gloss black engine enamel. Thanks for looking, -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Well i added some color to the engine by painting a few of the items VHT chrysler red. I think it helps break up the black and adds a nice look to it. I also mounted the water pump. I used Permatex No. 2 sealant on the threads of the bolts that attach the pump to the block as well as on both sides of the water pump gasket. Will this stuff do the trick? In the past i've used the blue colored RTV but i didn't have any so i figured i'd try the No. 2 sealant. The package said that the No. 2 is good for oil pans and valve cover gaskets, here's a link to the product info page: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant-detail Thanks guys, -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 You'll be fine with the # 2. I'm not a fan of RTV, regardless of color. It gets misused too often, can and has created problems when an excess is applied. RTY is good stuff when used properly. I get real leery of it when I see remnants of it on the outside of a joint where it's been squeezed out. That tells me it's likely some got squeezed out on the inside too and those remnants can get into places you really don't want them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) My experience is good on newer motors with blue RTV. Bad with old motors, but Permatex #2 and other their other even thicker sealers have been flawless! Just for info: Never use silicone type sealers on hydraulic oil containing systems- they turn into giant blobs of jello like substance that cause all types of problems. Maybe they now have something new that is safe, but not in my 10 year old experiences. DJ Edited February 8, 2015 by DJ194950 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Modern sealers have become very specialized in application. and the old faithful blue silicone is somewhat outdated now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks a lot guys for your responses. So by chance I did pick the right stuff. Before posting this question I would have chose the blue RTV over No. 2. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 I worked on the engine a little bit more. I was able to run the plug wires, mount the carb, assemble and mount the throttle linkage. I still need to connect the throttle return springs and button up a few other items before i can turn my attention to king pins and tie rod ends. Thanks for looking, -Chris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeywolf Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 As can be seen from the pics the conversion was done before I had the car . I had my old company metal spin a couple of rings to fit Landrover headlights then trimmed and welded in place they are screwed in place so removing to fit the original parts well not be a problem I am pleased with the outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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