perrymedik Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Still working on the ’49 Plymouth Special Deluxe (P-18). . . . . . . Taking the recommendations to check out the condition of the Water Distributor Tube (WDT) I took off the water pump and reached in with a hooked implement to pull it out just like the Service Manual shows. No dice. Not a budge. Not a little. Well, the hook unbent. That was cool. So a few questions: 1. When looking down the length of the WDT, should it be uniform in width the entire way down? Mine bows in on the right hand side about 2ish inches in. 2. What tool is out there that would be best suited to forceful pulling? 3. Aside from shooting a liberal amount of PB Blaster down the tub and all along the edges where there are gaps between the outside diameter of the WDT and the inside diameter of the block, what can be done to dislodge this bad boy (without leaving the other half of the WDT inside the block as I refuse to crack the case and open Pandora’s Box even further.)? 4. Why does everything have to be so hard!?!?!?! LOL! (No answer needed for that one!) Thanks in advance for the assist. You all have been great! Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 http://p15-d24.com/topic/32716-the-sword-in-the-stone-a-water-distribution-tube-adventure/?hl=%2Bwater+%2Btube+%2Bremoval#entry344638 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 The job of the misnamed water distribution tube is actually to direct coolant upwards to the underside of the valve seats. Especially the exhaust valves that only get cooled when they are closed. If the tube is clear to the back, and you can feel that the slots in the top are open you should be good to go knowing the coolant directing tube is doing its primary job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 1. When looking down the length of the WDT, should it be uniform in width the entire way down? Mine bows in on the right hand side about 2ish inches in. It narrows once it gets in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 This can be a real nasty job. Not always.....but fairly often. Mine came out in about 15 pieces. Lot's of fussing and cussing. Just depends on how badly rusted it is. I can tell you that very little has been easy with my project. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrymedik Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Shel_ny: THANK YOU for the picture!! That explains what mine looks like. I was worried that there was some kind of heat warping going on or something catastrophic! Jeff Balazs: When it broke upon you, how did you get out all the pieces without opening up the rest of the Motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 perrymedik, on 24 Oct 2014 - 11:45 AM, said: how did you get out all the pieces without opening up the rest of the Motor? Head off, water pump off, and freeze plugs out is as close as you can get to the water distribution tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Shel_ny: THANK YOU for the picture!! That explains what mine looks like. I was worried that there was some kind of heat warping going on or something catastrophic! Jeff Balazs: When it broke upon you, how did you get out all the pieces without opening up the rest of the MotoP What Don suggests......and it helps if you are very stubborn. My WDT disintegrated and had to be drug out kicking and screaming .....in pieces. The tool I found most useful was a 1/4" dia. length of very hard brass rod on which I formed a hook or claw at one end. On the other end I fitted a slid hammer from a body mans buddy. It was slow going but I was eventually got it all out. I don't know how many hours it took.....but it was a lot. Go on the truck form and read the thread titled fishing in a pilothouse to see all the debris I got out of the water jackets. I sincerely hope you have an easier time of it. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrymedik Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 It's out!! I used a Slide Hammer with a T-Handle Spring Hook taped to the Square hook (too keep it from falling out after each strike). It was in there pretty good! Once I got it out I could see that it was well on it's way to corroding, but it came out in one piece thankfully!! Now on to flushing the system out and waiting for the new WDT to arrive. I count this as a minor victory! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Congratulations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Trust me every time one of these comes out in one piece it is a MAJOR victory. Count yourself lucky. Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbrylcreem Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Many thanks for the heads up. It seems that I am heading down the same path. Kicking and screaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 makes me afraid to take the water pump off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Buy a lottery ticket........the WDT removal can be a long and labourious job, congratulations.....lol.....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowbrook Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 How would you know if your WDT is bad from how the car runs? Would you just start burning exhaust valves and losing compression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Many thanks for the heads up. It seems that I am heading down the same path. Kicking and screaming. Before you attempt to pull that.......lot's of applications of penetrating oil are in order. And may the force be with you. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbrylcreem Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks guys for the encouragement. I have started playing around with it. So now I am committed till the end. It's like going into a blackened tunnel with no end. I will keep you all informed as I go along. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks guys for the encouragement. I have started playing around with it. So now I am committed till the end. It's like going into a blackened tunnel with no end. I will keep you all informed as I go along. You left out the part about sharing that tunnel with something really nasty. I truly hope you have a easier time of this task than I did. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busycoupe Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 As for how you can tell if the WDT is still working; I ran the engine up to operating temperature then used an infrared temperature gun from Harbor Freight to measure the temp of many spots along the top of the head. On my engine the temperatures were all fairly consistent. The rear of the head was about 5 degrees warmer than near the thermostat. I took this to mean that the water was circulating well and that the WTD must be doing its job. What do you think? Is this a reasonable conclusion? I don't want to tackle a WTD if I don't have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrymedik Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 I don't know if it that's a good idea or not, but I love the way it sounds!! Plus, it sounds like another "Tool Buying" opportunity!! LOL! I look forward to everyones feedback on that. If its a sound idea, then that would be a great way for me to verify that my repairs were working without having to tear anything down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 As for how you can tell if the WDT is still working; I ran the engine up to operating temperature then used an infrared temperature gun from Harbor Freight to measure the temp of many spots along the top of the head. On my engine the temperatures were all fairly consistent. The rear of the head was about 5 degrees warmer than near the thermostat. I took this to mean that the water was circulating well and that the WTD must be doing its job. What do you think? Is this a reasonable conclusion? I don't want to tackle a WTD if I don't have to. That does sound like a reasonable method of assessment. But you know...by avoiding the WDT removal you are missing out on what could be a potentially life changing character building exercise. It has also been said that whatever doesn't kill you... will make you stronger. I am not absolutely certain that this is true but I do feel like a bigger character after what I went through with my WDT. Jeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrymedik Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Ok, another WDT question. I got the new one in today and went to install it and only get about half way in before it comes to a screeching halt!! I took a flashlight and took a look into the back and I don't see any obstructions. The void does have some hardened sediment on the walls, but not enough that I would think it should halt progress. Before I go and start hammering away to drive this all the way in, is there anything I need to know or do to make this successful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 If installed upside down it will go in about half way before stopping. I don't know what will happen if it is for a 25" block. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 shel_ny, on 28 Oct 2014 - 5:55 PM, said: If installed upside down it will go in about half way before stopping. I don't know what will happen if it is for a 25" block. Good point. The slots go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 See post #3 for the devices purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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