Conroe Powdercoating Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 very nice car! I'll bet your excited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 If you have any questions about this 1939 Desoto coupe please contact me. I have the 39 Desoto 4 door sedan and can help you with your questions. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Geeez Rich, this thread was 2 days old before you chimed in. I would think the mere mention of a 1939 DeSoto would get your attention immediately, no matter how it was mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 But the original post said a ford guy goes mopar and then read the post. I saw this car listed on Ebay. The original head would not have been the Spitfire head just a plain cast iron head. The Aluminum head gave the car 100 horse power versus 94 with the stock head. Positive ground is no big issue. Just keep it that way and you will be fine. I have had my car for over 27 years and the car is still positive ground. Negative goes out to the starter switch on top of the starter motor. Positive cable goes to the trans Use double 00 cable size and not 12 v sized cables. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 I thought as this is a mopar forum to go with more provocative title then the classic "new guy with 1939 desoto" You're right Rich, I bought this car from ebay. Somehow it got from the heritage of a National DeSoto Club Member to a Chevrolet Dealer which I bought from. I know positive ground from british cars, but never had a car with it nor a pre-WWII car. So pretty much new things for, big learning curve. Will check these things as soon the car is here and make more fotos for you guys. I'm quite exited and I hope the frame looks as good as the rest of the car. Cheers Elvis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Beautiful car Elvis, best of luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 I thought as this is a mopar forum to go with more provocative title then the classic "new guy with 1939 desoto" You're right Rich, I bought this car from ebay. Somehow it got from the heritage of a National DeSoto Club Member to a Chevrolet Dealer which I bought from. I know positive ground from british cars, but never had a car with it nor a pre-WWII car. So pretty much new things for, big learning curve. Will check these things as soon the car is here and make more fotos for you guys. I'm quite exited and I hope the frame looks as good as the rest of the car. Cheers Elvis Actually Ford also used positive ground until 1954 or 55. Really threw me at 17 when dad bought me a 54 Ford. Think that a "Ford" man would be up on that! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Thanks Linus! Didn't know that DJ, all my Fords are younger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 The difference between a 251 and a 265 is the stroke. The stroke is easily measured by removing the square pipe plug over #6 cylinder. Insert a long enough stiff wire, turn the engine over by hand and measure the movement as the wire rides the piston from tdc to bdc. Then compare your measurement to the specs for both engines. Viola, you know which knife you brought to the fight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted November 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Hi chaps, We picked up the car yesterday from swiss customs. Car was not running, battery drained and does not load, so good thing we showed up with the trailer. By now engine is running but no brakes. Car is in pretty good shape. Need new battery tray and gas tank. Engine has an S6 Code and Spitfire head. That's me Cheers Elvis 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 That is beautiful ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Great looking car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Then you have the correct engine in the car if the first two characters on the engine boss are S6. The 39 Desoto is an S6 model the S is used to designate Desoto. If the bottom of the battery tray is not complete you can weld a new bottom to the battery box. The 37-39 Mopar car gas tanks will fit your car but these are very hard to find. You might have to take yours down also drain the gas first via the bolt in the bottom of the tank. Flush it with water and then let it dry and find a guy that will either cut out the bad sections and then weld in new sheet metal. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) That car is beautiful, I absolutely love it. Glad it arrived safely. Edited November 11, 2014 by 40plyrod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Wow, what an awesome car! I'll be staying tuned to this thread for more updates. Best of luck. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Hi chaps, Yes, the engine has a "S6" tag at the beginning of the serial number. The bottom of the battery tray is partly rusted out. But I think it's easier to rebuild one from brand new sheet to metal. Not sure how many holes will pop out after cleaning of the the existing battery tray The gas tank was already "fixed" with a new patch of metal and some screews. It's leaking a little bit. You can see it by lines of drained fuel going away from it. Anyway, fixing fuel tanks is not allwoed in switzerland, so need to build or get one. I saw that in http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-fuel.aspxreproduction tanks are availabe for $275. Any expierience with that shop? Thanks everyone! Elvis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 no matter what year ,seems the desotos have the koolest grille,,,love all the stainless trim and looks like ford got there 40 ford tail lite idea fro ma desoto,,great looking car,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Had the car today on the ramp for oil and coolant change. I think I'm going to take the oilpan out as well. Had the finger through the hole and it felt little soggy, so I want to clean that up before she gets new oil. It definitely needs some welding. Some spots have been "repaired" with thin a "can-like" metal which has been riveted. So I'm going to to rebuild the sheet metal and it weld in. The bottom of the "cowl vent" (where the air from the ventilation flat gets in) behind the dashboard is completely rotten out. I'm not sure, but it looks like that it's screwed and not welded in? Thanks Elvis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 Hi guys, I have some questions left: The bottom of the "cowl vent" (where the air from the ventilation flat gets in) behind the dashboard is completely rotten out. I'm not sure, but it looks like that it's screwed and not welded in? Still can't see it from the bottom of the dash. Some advice on this would be cool before I start taking every thing out. I took the oilpan out today. It was worth it, there was some dirt at the very bottom. Question: Is there anyway to remove the oilpump sieve? I tried to turn it counter-clock wise, but to chance. Want to clean that out really good before putting it back together. I could see some wear on the cylinder walls, but nothing too bad. I'm sure I can still put lot of miles on this engine before rebuilding. The camshaft actually looked like brand new. What really confuses me, do I really need to take out the exhaust manifold to gap the valves? Cause I read somewhere that they need to be gaped on hot engine. And yeah, the floor is really like swiss cheese. You couldn't see it from below, cause it was badly repaired with rivets . Some welding there and also want to make a new battery tray. Next step is to find out why I've no brakes, probably the brake cylinders are leaking. I also found out now where the master brake cylinder is. Not easy to access for a quick fluid level check! I though that Chrysler was the pinnacle engineering at that time? Anyway, thinking on front disc setup (rustyhope) and get vacuum power on it somehow (need some more reading on that). Thanks! Elvis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 If you change the top of the MC lid so that the filler plug is at the front of the MC towards the front of the car you can get access to filler the MC and also check on the amt of fluid in the MC. This is what I have done on my MC on my 39 Desoto. To get full access to the MC you need to remove the front floor board assembly. This also provides access to the trans and the emergency brake brand. I have seen on the ebay that there has been a listing for new sheet metal for the floor board. This would also be the same as the 39 Dodge used the same body style and also the 39 Chrysler. You do not have to take off the manifold. Under the manifold there are two metal plates that have two thumb screws. Undo the screw and then the palte will come off the block and then you have access to the valves and the tappets to make the necessary adjustments, and yes the engine needs to warm. To make it even easier put the car up on the lift take the right front wheel off the care. Then you need to remove the right side inner fender sheet metal. This will then provide you full access to the right side of the engine. This is the only way to do the value adjustments . Rich Hartung 1939 Desoto owner Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 Hi Rich, Thanks for the hint on they ebay sheet metal. Found it, let's see what the shipping to Europe would be. I've removed the front floor and the "middle" floor. Front floor just needs new paint and a corner welded. I don't get what you mean with and also check on the amt of fluid in the MC. Thanks for hint with taking the car up the lift and removing the inner fender sheet metal. That's the way I'm going to do it. Cause I reckon it would be a pain the the car on it's wheels. Regards from overseas Elvis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Hi Rich, Thanks for the hint on they ebay sheet metal. Found it, let's see what the shipping to Europe would be. I've removed the front floor and the "middle" floor. Front floor just needs new paint and a corner welded. I don't get what you mean with Thanks for hint with taking the car up the lift and removing the inner fender sheet metal. That's the way I'm going to do it. Cause I reckon it would be a pain the the car on it's wheels. Regards from overseas Elvis Elvis: This is what i ment. When you take off the driver side hood sheet metal and with the hood opened then you can lay across the fender. You will see the Master cylinder unit and the line that comes out of the front that goes to the Brake light switch. If you take off the top lid of the master Cylinder and switch the lid so that the filler nut is at the front of the MC. This would be the end inwhich the line goes to the brake light switch. Then you can unscrew the cap and then you can put your finger into the hole to see how much fluid is in the reservioir. If it is low then take a funnel with a log tube and then you can fill the MC. You might over fill the unit but this is much easier to do that taking the floor mat out of the car and then taking the small plate that has access to the mC out of the floor board. I have had mine this way for 27 years.. Also received you email about the rear gravel guard. I perfectly understand. Sent you a reply. rich hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) Hi Rich, Got it now, thank you! Uhm, I didn't got a email or PM from you yet. This is dealer you mentioned from ebay: http://www.c2cfabrication.com/store/1939-chrysler-standard-coupe-complete-front-floor-pan/ Thanks Elvis Edited November 24, 2014 by ellum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi Guys, any advice what this ticking noise could be? Thanks Elvis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 hard to hear any ticking over the carb vacuum,,, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellum Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Will do better video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.