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PCV Installation


meadowbrook

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Hi guys, I have been driving my 50 d34 and I am a bit tired of the stinky smell from the crankcase fumes. I am sure I get more blowby than a new engine though no smoke ever comes out of the tailpipe, some does come from the fill cap when idling.

I suppose some makes it into the cabin too, despite my attempts to seal the firewall holes through which the wiring, cables, etc go through.

So I am seriously entertaining the installation of the $89 kit I now see advertised at Vintage Power Wagons.

My research indicates that I need to also seal the oil cap and add a hose between it and the air cleaner for make up air.

As I understand its operation, at low throttle openings, the high vaccum in the intake will shut the Pcv valve, so that the crankcase gases will be sucked through the orifice in the Pcv, minimizing the vaccum leak it creates. At high throttle openings, the vaccum drops off, opening the Pcv, and by then, the suction coming from the air cleaner is what draws the crankcase vapors into the engine to be burned.

Result, no stinky engine compartment. Plus should I choose to, I can ford deep rivers in my Dodge ;)

So, finally my question is, as a lazy man, I would rather not remove my intake manifold to drill and tap for the pcv fitting. Can I place a tee on the existing hole now used for the wiper vaccum ?

Another choice would be to remove the carb, plug the passages to the intake ports and drill and tap in that little box area the carb sits on top of on the manifold.

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"Another choice would be to remove the carb, plug the passages to the intake ports and drill and tap in that little box area the carb sits on top of on the manifold."

That's what I'm going to do.  And, use my shop vac to suck up the chips as the drill and tap progresses.

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I have considered this but when ordering some parts from Vintage Power Wagons he talked me out of it. Said it was very difficult to drill and tap cast iron.

I did try drilling into a head once using a hand held drill and it did not seem to cut very well.

So -- how would you drill and tap cast iron?

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Seems like, on one of my flathead engines in the past, there was a part underneath the base of the carburetor,

shaped the same, that was metal,  about a quarter inch thick, and had one or two plugs in the side of it.......I assume

it was for connecting something like wipers......or who knows what?

 

I don't know if the above makes any sense......and don't know if I still have that item.  If I find it, will post a picture.

It might work for what you want on the PcV.  

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Seems like, on one of my flathead engines in the past, there was a part underneath the base of the carburetor,

shaped the same, that was metal,  about a quarter inch thick, and had one or two plugs in the side of it.......I assume

it was for connecting something like wipers......or who knows what?

 

I've watched some U-Tube videos that have shown drilling and tapping into cast. I figured it would go better with a drill press like Ed is talking but thought it may take a special type of bit, carbide tip at least. But what Bob is speaking of a part below the carb is what they used on some newer engines. An aluminum spacer plate with a vacuum passage between the carb and manifold the PCV hose hooked into. I've thought about trying to fabricate something like that.

But I ended up kicking around on EBay till I found an intake that had an extra vacuum port on it. It fits, but the tower part the carb sits on is taller than my stock manifold. I believe it will work, but I plan on looking at it later on.

post-6384-0-99023900-1411127861_thumb.jpg

post-6384-0-12451800-1411127869_thumb.jpg

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One thing an old timer told me years ago- No oil used when drilling/tapping cast iron or brass. Makes the bit/tap not get a grip to cut cleanly.

 

DJ

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