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how do i get this off


deepweasel

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It a looks like a full floater rear axle, no puller required. Just remove the 8 bolts and slide the axle out. Then remove the nut that holds the drum. (You may need a deep socket to get it off) Invest in a service manual for your truck so you have the specs correctly. 

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That set of eight nuts may have a split conical washer under them that wedge into the axle end.  Tapping the axle end should pop them out enough for removal..  Have a small drip pan handy since a small amount of fluid may come out.  There may be two nuts inside, the first being a lock nut, followed by a locking washer setup and then the second nut that's used for adjusting the bearings.  Once to the bearings, it'll come off the same as a standard front axle drum would..

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Take off the eight 5/8" hex nuts and eight split washers.

Wack the end of the axle fast and hard with a hammer-the axle will pop out 1/4-1/2". Remove the axle shaft. Now check the brake drum for looseness or wobble by tring to move it top to bottom-shouldn't be any wobble top to bottom side to side-if there is bad or loose wheel bearings.

 

You will see a large hex nut-I think it's a 3-1/2" hex. You remove that preferably with the right size socket-  the shadetree hack way is with a dull chisel to loosen and remove the nut.  I always use the correct size sockets.  

Behind the removed hex nut  is a large round thick washer with several 1/4" holes around and in it. It also has a tang that fits into the axle housing keyway where the threaded portion is. Pull this adjustment locking washer off the threaded axle stub.

 

Now you are looking at the last inner large hex nut-wipe it clean of oil and grease. You will notice on it's face there is a small round pin sticking out of it. This is the inner wheel bearing adjusting nut and it must always be installed and adjusted properly against the inner wheel bearing. Remove this inner hex nut. Now the drum and outer bearing will come off the axle housing. Don't let the outer bearing fall on the ground! Dont drag the drum and oil seal off the housing support it as you remove it carefully. 20-30lbs.

 

 

NOTE.....When installing the drum and bearings to the axle housing the round washer with the holes is what locks and holds in place this inner adjusting hex nut after you have properly adjusted the nut up against the bearing. You install the locking round washer up against the inner hex nut and that short protruding pin should line up and fit into one of the holes in the washer. If it does not flip the washer over and install it again. It should fit over the pin and flush to the inner nut.

Now you install the last outer hex nut and tighten to the shop manual specs.

 

I always use a prick punch and make a prick mark directly above the axle housing spindle keyway on both hex nuts and the locking washer. Before I remove each one.

 

The inner seal probably needs to be replaced and inner and outer wheel bearings should be cleaned and checked for wear too..

 

On these bigger trucks understand what you are doing as improper repairs could kill you or some one else. Seeing a set of duallies/drum and axle in the rear view mirror coming out of the axle housing would not be good!

Get a shop manual as already mentioned for good reference.

 

Bob

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What DodgeB4YA said, I'll add that if after removing the nuts and washers on the axle shaft, and it won't come out with a decent hammer whack, those two holes at 6 and 9 o'clock are threaded for 5/16's or 3/8's bolts (can't remember which).  If the axle was siliconed or gasket shellaces to the hub, by putting to of the correct sized bolts in these holes you have in effect a built in axle puller to get the shaft free from the hub.   Mike

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The trick is not so much in removing the axles but reinstalling them. The axle must be centered inside the blind hole so there is no seeing as it is all done by feel. I have seen the uninformed whaling away with a BFH trying to force the axle into the splines and thus destroying the axle and possibly the third member as well. The key is to teeter the axle and feel the splines by slowly turning the axle until they line up. First real job I had out of high school was working at the truck sales processing center for the International Harvester truck factory here in Fort Wayne. The old timers taught me how to install these axles a lesson I will never forget. IH used axles built by the DANA Corporation here in the fort and they are still in business today at the same location.

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I forgot the two 3/8 X 16" threaded axle removal threaded holes! Use those to pull axle out as mentioned above. And I've removed and installed so many of these on the old dodges.

The axle shaft is a little heavy but will slide into the differential  side gears with no problem. As Don said don't use a hammer!!

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  • 5 months later...

So, if we don't have/can't fine the proper socket, how do you know how much to tighten the nuts using the "shade tree mechanic method"? I flipped my locking washer both directions and still had to tighten the inner nut quite a bit in order to get a hole to line up. Makes it pretty difficult to turn, at least without the wheel mounted.

Thanks,

Eric

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 A dual wheel / 16" drum assembly that big and heavy could come off the truck if not put together and kill some one. :eek:

I think I would go find the correct axle spindle socket so you can adjust and tighten the rear wheel bearings and dual locking nuts correctly after reading the factory type manual for correct specifications.

Too much at risk if not done correctly :)

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ranchracer- how did you get it apart? A punch or chisel on the pointed areas of the nuts?  How tight were they?

 

Rough edges left using that method  removal can and DO leave behind raised areas of the nut(s) that can interfere with proper adjustments.

 

Just a thought as others are Way more knowledgeable about these older Mopar Heavy trucks. I've worked in the past on some Dodge 6x6 ex weapons carriers from the 40's is all.

 

Don't believe that they ran a preload pressure (Tighten to a certain torque), just Almost tight but not too tight? Room for the gear lube to get into the bearings?

 

DJ

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I don't know if his is standard procedure or not, but I pack the inner and outer bearings with grease before assembly so that they have some type of lubrication if the gear oil doesn't get to them right away.   I've seen a guy install them dry on a motorhome while doing a brake job.  He then headed down the road and got about three miles before he bearings seized to the spindle and had to be cut off.  I checked the rear when we were bringing the unit back to the garage, and the level was just below the fill plug.    Mike

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ranchracer- how did you get it apart? A punch or chisel on the pointed areas of the nuts?  How tight were they?

Yep, old hammer and chisel method. I've attempted to source the proper size nut but to no avail. However, I did file down any raised areas. I loosened everything up again and started from scratch last night, this time tightening the inner nut JUST until there was no play pulling the drum from side to side. The washer lined up beautifully this time. Then tightened the outer nut so the hub could still be turned relatively easily by hand. Hopefully that will do the trick. I noticed someone else mention that they pack some bearing greese in the bearings. I'd had the same thought and packed a bit in there when I first reinstalled the inner bearing and seal. Figured it couldn't hurt.

One more side to go!

Eric

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  • 2 months later...

I can't seem to find the correct specs for tightening the spindle nut in the B3 shop manual. Am I blind or is it in another area I am missing?

Also, where does a guy get that 3-5/8" socket?

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