wildwilf Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hi all Three years ago when I got my 53 fargo it ran, when I went to start it to day it seems to be seized. We dragged it up and down the road and popped the clutch but it wouldn't free it up. is that possible that it seized up that quick and that tight? (realizing all things are possible) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 per your own admission of trying to break it lose pulling on the road with popping the clutch..I would say you have made a remarkable assessment..do a forum search there are many folks here relaying their personal experiences freeing up stuck engines..be sure you are at the top of the foum on your search not the top of this thread...results will be less than pleasing if you do not go to top of forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Please don't pull it on the road and pop the clutch. It's possible to do internal damage using that particular method. That puts huge shock load on parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hi all Three years ago when I got my 53 fargo it ran, when I went to start it to day it seems to be seized. We dragged it up and down the road and popped the clutch but it wouldn't free it up. is that possible that it seized up that quick and that tight? (realizing all things are possible) Thanks Sure it's possible in your damp, moist environment. how did you store the engine? Did you periodically start or turn engine over, could be a few stuck valves. was water sitting in the spark plug holes? You may have to pull the head and side covers and get some pentrating oil or ATF or diesel in there. What was this engine like before, a good runner or rebuild candidate....keep us informed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Pull the plugs before tryiny Your method. Soak cylinder for several days before going forward. Best to try at the big crankshaft nut. Much easier on all parts.. It's possible water has seeped into cyl.(s). are hydraulically locked. using your method may only accomplish is broken parts! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 The engine was in the truck in my garage. Unfortunately I didn't turn it over once in a while. There was no water in it at all until the other day when I was getting it ready to fire it up. the engine was a good runner when I got it. I'll try the penetrating oil, I have 4 or 5 cans of PB blaster. The engine is a D43 which is a 53 Dodge car engine does any know what size it is I will need to know to get a new head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Pull the plugs first and hit them with a vacuum to make sure your not hydro locked, if the head gasket allowed coolant to fill a cylinder there's no way it will turn over. Once that's done then DJ has it, soak the cyls then with plugs out try to break free with the crank, never drop the clutch while pulling...bent rods litter the scrap pile with those techniques Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Measure the head, either a 23" or 25", after that you can find a gasket When you say no water, do you mean it was stored without coolant? If so and you have to pull the head, I suggest pulling the water pump and before installing, soak in hot water for a few hours...its saved a few old pumps for my old boss. Edited September 1, 2014 by 4mula-dlx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Pull the plugs before tryiny Your method. Soak cylinder for several days before going forward. Best to try at the big crankshaft nut. Much easier on all parts.. It's possible water has seeped into cyl.(s). are hydraulically locked. using your method may only accomplish is broken parts! DJ I tried to turn it over with a crank I made won't budge If I pour PB Blaster in the spark plug holes will it get to the pistons the way the head is made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Yes, it will make it..just use a good amount in each, possibly pull the tappet covers off and spray the valve train down as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Measure the head, either a 23" or 25", after that you can find a gasket When you say no water, do you mean it was stored without coolant? If so and you have to pull the head, I suggest pulling the water pump and before installing, soak in hot water for a few hours...its saved a few old pumps for my old boss. no water at all did I do more damage than good by draining it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Thanks for all the suggestion I will try them hopefully tomorrow and keep you all posted Thanks again for the help Wilf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead49 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 A mixture of ATF and Acetone 50 / 50 is a inexpensive and excellent DIY penetrating oil. Used it to free a Studebaker Champion 6 years ago. Let it set about a week and with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe it was free. I did have to remove the head due to a couple stuck valves that were in the open position. After a couple taps with a wooded block and installing the head it was running and not smoking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Silly question...have you tried pulling the belt off then trying the crank? I'm guess after the pull start my idea is far fetched, but on my parts truck the generator was so seized and the belt so tight I thought the motor was seized..took it all off to get the water pump and rad out and about 6 months later went to steal the crank nut and it turned right over..before it wouldn't move at all....just throwing ideas out there. Work the engine backwards as much as you can without the nut loosening..that helps if its rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Pulling the head is the best scenario..lets you know exactly what's up as gearhead stated...valves need to be unstuck with head off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Here's one method I came up with that I haven't seen anywhere else: Splice a cooiant heater into the radiator hose and then fill the system with coolant. Let the coolant heater work several days. The block may expand enough with the heat to free the pistons. If you try this, let us know if my brainstorm works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Well I pulled the plugs and valve covers off and sprayed 2 cans of PB Blaster in the cylinders and valves let sit for 2 days still won't turn over with the hand crank Drained the oil and poured 1 1/2 gallons of ATF and acetone mixed 50/50 and poured some down the spark plug holes still won't turn after 3 days. I have decided to pull the head and oil pan and see what is going on. When it ran 3 years ago the transmission was on the bench. So my question is could it be the transmission that is stopping it from turning. giving the fact that the transmission and clutch seem to be working properly. like maybe it didn't mate up properly in the clutch, pressure plate and fly wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Wilf; Are you saying that it ran a few years ago? ........but the transmission and clutch etc.was off the truck at the time? And it has not been run since all of this was bolted back in place? If you had this apart and it ran then perhaps this assembly is either installed incorrectly or the fly wheel may have the wrong fasteners? Might be possible to bind this up. Also have you tried a big socket, extension and breaker bar on the front pulley nut? Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) When I started it 3 years ago the flywheel and clutch were still attached to the motor the only thing that had been removed was the transmission itself. I have tried a crank on the front pulley. Wilf Edited September 10, 2014 by wildwilf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) Have you tried the starter? It has the most levereage to turn the flywheel and engine it over. A quick push on the starter pedal will let you know if it's gonna turn over. Using the crank pulley nut will never turn a severely stuck engine over. No leverage. Yo can break the nut off. I did it once. Hope your engine is not seriously stuck. Edited September 10, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) I bought a t bucket last year that had been sitting 13 years, it was stuck. Put lots of PB Blaster in the cylinders, let it sit. After a couple days I tried to turn it with a breaker bar and socket on the crank. Wouldn't "turn", but would wiggle just a tiny bit. Just the rod bearing play. After a day or two more, it would move just a bit more and I knew pustons were beginning to move. After a couple more days and try's, I could get a whole revolution. Pretty soon it would turn close to normal. By the way, I never put anyway near enough twist on it to break anything. It started and is a great, solid runner now. My lesson, which may or may not be of any value to others, is that getting one unstuck is not like getting a bolt to turn. Break it loose and you're done. It's a slow process. Work it loose. Be patient. If you can move it at all your chances are pretty good. It's unlikely it's rusted up, or at least not badly. Another trick is heat. Some take small motors and put them on a hot plate to break loose varnish, etc. I'm not sure exactly how you'd do this with a big motor like ours, but the concept seems reasonable. Maybe a salamander (kerosene) heater directed on it? It didn't get stuck in a few minutes, there's a good chance it won't come unstuck that quick. Edited September 10, 2014 by austinsailor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Have you made sure the trans will turn? With it in neutral will the tail shaft turn? Since you've added a new component to the equation, you need to be sure it's not the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Hi The transmission worked fine on the bench all the gears and reverse, so It is pretty reasonable that it should work. and we towed it up the road and it turned free as long as the clutch was depressed. tonight I will pull the head so I can make sure that the PB Blaster is getting into all the cylinders. It hasn't budged after 4or 5 days with the ATF and acetone mix. and there was enough of that , that it was running out the muffler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 So after a good soaking.....and using a breaker bar and socket (1 13/16") it won't budge? I just can't imagine it is seized that badly the way you stored it. I have to think that the problem is at the flywheel or tranny. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwilf Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Haven't used a breaker bar yet just the hand crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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