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OD transmission cleanup - oh what did I do...


Mark D

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Last night I decided to degrease the R10 that I bought from Paul F.  It washed up good so I decided to pull the u-joint that was attached to the parking brake hub as well as to pull and straighten the lockout cable bracket. All went well with those tasks and I think the thick coating of grease kept all the bolts relatively easy to loosen and back out.  So on I went to the loose shift linkage... I decided to tighten the bolt and thats when things went bad.  Without any real force at all, the #(&%^$ nut snapped off.  I'm guessing that at some point it must have been rolled over before I got it and it likely fractured the post. After the swearing stopped, it dawned on me that I may already own this part in my current transmission, or is this just wishful thinking?

 

post-3941-0-75292700-1405352618_thumb.jpg

 

 

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I would guess you can replace it with the one from your current trans. Or you could find a really talented welder/machinist who could repair it.  Perhaps you new friend from the tie rods could recommend someone.   

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Just swap shift covers if you have an extra one.

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Spent a few hours these past couple evenings detailing and cleaning the OD. Using my dremel tool, and wire brush, and the wire wheel on my bench grinder I made good progress after soking the exterior of the case with Simple Green and Dawn dish washing solution. The grease is now gone and is replaced with a nice new coat of gray primer.  The governor, solenoid and lock out switch along with the linkage and cable mounts all got cleaned up and sprayed with a coat of clear shelac.  The interior of the OD got drained of the very muddy oil and from my lay-mans eyes everything inside looks to be in good shape.  No metal shavings or chucks came out with the oil, so I think I will be in good shape. I will have to fix the tab that receives the wire on the governor, as it seems to have been snapped off by someone in the past. Looks to be a fairly simple fix once I fab a newreplacement part.

 

post-3941-0-70612400-1405525463_thumb.jpg As delivered.

post-3941-0-16316800-1405525473_thumb.jpg Degreased, cleaned, and primed.

post-3941-0-71760200-1405525485_thumb.jpg Governor cap showing broken wire tab at top of photo.

post-3941-0-94396000-1405525850_thumb.jpg Cleaned Solenoid.

post-3941-0-82465700-1405525802_thumb.jpg Interior.

post-3941-0-20240400-1405525857_thumb.jpg Lock out switch.

 

I've got a few questions for the guys that have done this job.

 

- Are there supposed to be gaskets under the governor, solenoid, and lockout? And if so are they copper or paper?

- I was thinking about buying a quart of sea foam to flush out the interior of the tranny, is this advised?

- How much side to side play is there supposed to be on the input shaft?

- Is the thread on the parking brake drum left hand or right?

 

Thanks in advance. - Mark

 

 

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I've got a few questions for the guys that have done this job.

 

- Are there supposed to be gaskets under the governor, solenoid, and lockout? And if so are they copper or paper?

- I was thinking about buying a quart of sea foam to flush out the interior of the tranny, is this advised?

- How much side to side play is there supposed to be on the input shaft?

- Is the thread on the parking brake drum left hand or right?

 

Thanks in advance. - Mark

 

I don't recall any gaskets under mine but maybe someone else can confirm. I think if I wanted to flush it I'd put it in the car do a couple 100 miles and then drain and refill. The parking brake drum is right thread and the rear seal is readily available I got mine at napa.

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I have seen an overdrive Solenoid oil seal on a few web sites. Looks like an O-Ring that goes around the stem.

Heres one on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Overdrive-Solenoid-Oil-Seal-52-53-54-55-Plymouth-NEW-1952-1953-1954-1955-/251588182259?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a93d300f3&vxp=mtr

 

Don't know anything about gaskets required.

 

BTW: The OD looks good.

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Thanks Lloyd - I just ordered one.  Will see what it looks like when it arrives at the end of the week.

 

Ed - Tonights challenge will be to remove the brake drum. Hopefully I can get that 1" nut to spin. Looks like its on there pretty good.  Last night I soaked it with penetrating oil.  Which seal where you referring to?

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Thanks Lloyd - I just ordered one.  Will see what it looks like when it arrives at the end of the week.

 

Ed - Tonights challenge will be to remove the brake drum. Hopefully I can get that 1" nut to spin. Looks like its on there pretty good.  Last night I soaked it with penetrating oil.  Which seal where you referring to?

 

Ha I just assumed you were removing the parking brake drum to replace the rear seal. The output shaft seal is behind that drum and 100% should be replaced now while its easy to get at.

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Did you see this topic?

http://p15-d24.com/topic/641-removing-rear-brake-drums/

 

I've got a brake job to do myself and after reading this I hope mine don't cause some problems like I read here.

Course I can always loosen it a half-a-turn and take off driving! Shouldn't laugh though, may become an option.

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Ha I just assumed you were removing the parking brake drum to replace the rear seal. The output shaft seal is behind that drum and 100% should be replaced now while its easy to get at.

So you inadvertently taught me something I would not have known to do. Thanks for that. All the more reason to get the drum off. Hopefully the nut won't give me too much trouble coming off.

Take a look at this video and see if you think the input shaft looks ok to you. It seems loose to me.

Edited by Mark D
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Governor cap showing broken wire tab at top of photo.

 

I've had a governor that looked just like yours.

 

I straightened what was left of the tab that's broken and found another like thickness metal that I tinned with solder with my solder gun. Did the same to the broken tab and soldered together to form the same type shape of tab.

Carefully hooked up male electric connecter when trans was installed. so far so good at 2k+ miles.

May as well remove the governor to do this BUT- you will Never get a wrench on the hex head part to remove! No room! Just carefully use channel lock pliers close to the base to unscrew. No gasket is used.

 

Remove the cover and clean and re-grease the flyweights. When it's opened up you will see what i'm talking about. Very basic!

 

DJ

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That is a great idea DJ. It never occurred to me to just solder on a new tab over the existing. Will give it a shot and worst case I have to drill to rivets and make a new tab.

Had some success this evening removing the parking brake hub! No broken bolts, nuts, or skinned knuckles! So Ed, is the rear seal just pressfit? Remember you're talking to an architect/wannabe mechanic. Anything I've done up to date has been something that my grandfather taught me, but this is way out of my league.

post-3941-0-22340000-1405559420_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mark D
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Appears your seal is original type.

Hope you have was better luck than I did removing it. Repair manuals show a special three fingered tool with and expander to keep it tight to the seal.

Mine were red lock tighted in I believe. Almost ready to use more dynamite! Others seems to cruise thru this!

 

While in this far-suggest cleaning the points inside of the OD solenoid. Not to hard.

 

Remove the two screws for electric connections on it and then after a good soak of rust penetrate on the two nuts on the end of the cover and remove cover. points will show themselves.

Also in the resources part of the forum i've posted an rebuild/repair of OD solenoids with pics.

 

Best

 

DJ

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I don't recall having too much trouble with mine and I know I didn't use a puller. May have used the self tapping screw/claw hammer method. The new one just taps in. How is the seal surface on the parking brake drum? Are you going to reline the parking brake band while you're at it?

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You guys wouldn't happen to have the replacement part number handy for the rear seal? I'll give the self tapper/hammer a try over the weekend. DJ, I pulled the cap to the solenoid, no issues removing it, but it was a little crusty on the inside. I'll check the gaps in the light over tomorrow and throw some current at it to make sure it's in good shape. Opened up the front cover as well, there's a lot of slop so it seems I will be going in a little deeper and replacing the front bearing while I am at it.

post-3941-0-55801400-1405565432_thumb.jpg

post-3941-0-34425700-1405565619_thumb.jpg

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Opened up the front cover as well, there's a lot of slop so it seems I will be going in a little deeper and replacing the front bearing while I am at it.

 

 

At one point you say you are in past where comfort has fled the scene...lol...but 

I see an analytical mind at work here, there isn't anything on this tranny that you cannot handle Mark, just go at a pace that is comfortable and finish it up....you'll be done before you know it.

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Frank, Comfort left the scene with my wallet! LOL quite frankly the only thing that really scares me about this is screwing something up beyond repair, or having to spend more cash to fix my mistakes. I figure it's better to ask the questions than to cry for not having done so. But I really appreciate the encouragement.

Don thanks for the exploded isometric. As someone who does quite a bit of illustration, that's exactly how my minds eye see these things. Not to mention I can refer to the part names with some intelligence.

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Mark I haven't located the receipt with the part # on it for my OD seal but I believe I just had them look up a 54 plymouth trans rear seal.

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