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New Member from SE michigan


Daddy

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Greetings everybody - My name is Mike and I live in Southeastern Michigan about 20 miles south of Detroit.  Last week I picked up a 1949 Coronet Club Coupe and drove it home from Cleveland.

 

Here's what I know about the car: 318 swap with a mild cam, edelbrock intake, 4 barrel edelbrock carb - 904 trans with a shift kit - super high gear rear end (I averaged 2k on the tach at 70mph) - 15 inch steel wheels and coker wide whites - butches 3 inch rear blocks - 12 volt conversion - has a nice new column.

 

Here's some eye candy.  

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My plans for the car:

New weatherstrip for windows, doors, trunk

Aerostar front spring swap (ordered and will arrive tomorrow)

Front disc brake swap and add power booster

Attempt to source out new bushings for the front end

Upgrade the sway bar

Clean up the interior and hack job wiring

I'd also like to finish shaving the trim, antenna hole, and doors

I'm kind of digging the primer look so once the body is straight, i'll hit it with an off white with semi flattened clear.

 

Let me know what you think!  I'm new to these old mopars so any suggest upgrades are appreciated.  Also, please pass along any sources for the parts listed above.  Thanks for having me!

 

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Hey Mike some of us will be in Port Huron for the Plymouth Owners Club meet, August 20-24th.  I know its a Dodge and it wouldn't be accepted in the show but there will be other activities going on.  Some of us will be getting together for a Friday night tailgater in the parking lot of one of the Hotels.  You might want to consider coming around since you are pretty close. Let us know  The Plymouth car show will be Saturday at the Double Tree.  The group will be doing some touring Thursday and Friday.

Edited by greg g
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Thanks for the invite!  If she's ready to rock and roll, maybe easy livin' and I will make an appearance!

 

For today, I replaced the cowl vent seal to stop that water coming in.  I also pulled the kick panels which were practically disintegrated.

 

I can't seem to find what holds the interior door handle on.  I'd assume there would be a c clip of sorts.  Any experience pulling these off so I can remove and reupholster the door cards?

 

I also came across a new set of fiberglass skirts in the car that I will not be using.

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Sweet ride. Besides the POC meet coming up next month, that Greg mentioned, there's also a WPC meet in Auburn Hills this coming week. The show will be at the Marriott Hotel on Saturday. If nothing else come on up and check out a lot full of nice old Mopars.

http://www.chryslerclub.org/PDF%20files/National%20Meet%20Info%202014.pdf

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Looks like I joined the right forum!  As long as I'm not wrenching, I may show up.  I work for chrysler at the warren truck plant and our employee car show is this Saturday as well.  

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Nice ride! Door handles should have a  pin to tap out and not a c-clip like most cars

Edited by Losthope
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If your window crank handles and door handles are like a '47, they are held on by a pin.  Pushing the escutcheon back will reveal the pin.  

 

If you have trouble getting the handle back on because the pin hole is enlarged, somewhere I have a post explaining a two-piece pin which I developed and fabricated from hardware parts.  

 

I found the post:

 

How to get those pins back in the handle, while fighting the spring-loaded escutcheon? The topic popped up on two current threads.

As the holes wear, it gets harder to line everything up. The pin doesn't want to come out of the shaft in the right place. 

I found brass hobby tubing at the local hardware that is the same size as the pins, and finishing nails that would just fit inside the tubing. I cut tubing and nails to length to make up several sets. 

I use a full-length nail to go through the handle and shaft, and out the other side of the handle. The nail is long enough so that I can keep it going straight. 



Then I work a section of tubing over the nail and into place. I pull out the nail, and put a short length of nail into the tube. I suppose the short nail reinforces the brass tube so it won't collapse at some bad time. 

Edited by DonaldSmith
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Just got through rehanging the exhaust that the previous owner installed.  Amazing what a little welding and a few hangars will accomplish.

 

On the down side, I found my exhaust leak.. manifold bolt broke off in the head right behind the steering column.  I'll probably have to either pull the head or yank the engine to drill/retap.  I'm assuming it'll be easier and cheaper just to yank the whole engine.  Might be a good time to lose that old RV cam and upgrade to something with a bit more lift.

 

I was able to get under the car on a hoist for the first time and I was very pleased.  No rust, straight frame, new brake lines, new fuel lines!

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All the door panels are off and ready to be traced for templates.  I'm going to go with some simple pleated vinyl and get a little more radical with the seat upholstery after cruise season.

 

Tomorrow's agenda is to install the aerostar front springs and get the ride height leveled out.

 

Any ideas as to where I can locate new bushings for the front end?  The car squeaks like a cheap hotel mattress.

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Have you tried greasing all of the joints in the front end?  The lower A frames front Zerk fitting is a press in straight fitting on my car and you have to have a special fitting to grease them as the sway bar is in the way.  All of the joints are metal to metal unlike modern cars that use rubber to isolate the harshness that comes with metal to metal bushings.  You will probably find that some of the fittings will not take grease due to the old stuff being full of dirt and has hardened like stone.  I find that if I will take a propane torch and heat the joints that refuse to take grease until the old grease becomes liquid then I can get them to take fresh grease.  The trunnion bushings have screw threads like a nut and the trunnion is but a hollow bolt with holes in the threads that allow grease to fill the gap between the threads.

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