TodFitch Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Moving on down the road. But if you don't get a laugh out of this you need to adjust your funny bone. Why is my on the road tool kit funny? Actually, that is not my kit. I don't have a big fancy box for it, my AAA card is gold and my cellphone is a smart phone I can use for navigation in addition to dealing with breakdowns. But it is in the same spirit as my tool kit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsturner Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Not to threadjack but for the benefit of others considering an electric fuel pump: I put that exact airtex 6 volt electric fuel pump on my '51 Chrysler earlier this year. You're going to love it. I did mine for a few reasons: 1. My mechanical fuel pump was starting to leak a lot due to our lovely modern fuel chemistry. 2. No more vapor lock. Modern fuel has a much higher vapor pressure than when our vehicles were built. That means it evaporates really easily, especially the so-called winter blend, which is sold at some stations well into summer hot weather because they don't fill their storage tanks that often. This is great for atomization and combustion and such, but it means the fuel evaporates at the drop of a hat. This is exacerbated because of the suction in the line betwen the stock fuel pump and the tank. Even with properly routed fuel lines and heat shields I fought vapor lock throughout a cross-country trip in May last year, during a heat wave when lots of stations were still selling winter blend gasoline. Modern cars are unaffected because the entire fuel system is pressurized, which increases the boiling point of the fuel. Now that we have electric pumps at the tank our fuel systems are under pressure and we should be nearly immune to vapor lock. 3. Faster starts and no more priming. Before when I shut off my hot engine the fuel in the line drained back to the tank. Heat soak in the engine bay boiled everything out of the carb float bowl and pump-to-carb plumbing. Of course I'd have to prime it to get it started again after that. Now, when I turn the ignition on the electric pump primes the fuel system and fills the float bowl. Same goes for when the car sits for a while. I learned a couple other things while researching this stuff; you probably already know this: - If your mechanical pump is still plumbed into the system and the diaghram fails, the electric pump will completely fill the crankcase with fuel. I bypassed mine. - If you crash and your fuel plumbing is damaged but the electric pump is still energized it will busily pump all your fuel onto the hot exhaust manifold, probably causing a massive inferno and roasting you alive, which is always fun. Airtex sells an oil pressure switch you can install so the pump shuts off if the engine stops. The switch is bypassed during starting. That's on my to-do list. - Modern fuel also kills most cheap rubber fuel hose. OEMs and big-budget hot rodders use teflon hose and fancy AN fittings which is great, but for us mere mortals I hear Gates Barricade hose is the way to go. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 . . . That means it evaporates really easily, especially the so-called winter blend, which is sold at some stations well into summer hot weather because they don't fill their storage tanks that often. . . . I've heard that the Federal standards that most states follow actually has no requirement on volatility but that California does. End result is that vapor locking may be more of a problem outside of California than in California. If true, then it explains why I had issues a year ago last spring when I drove to Tucson in my '33. But I only had issues with Arizona purchased fuel. Problems started on the first tankful east of the Colorado River and went away with the first tankful west of the Colorado River even though the ambient temperatures in the California desert and Central Valley were about the same as in the Tucson and Phoenix areas at that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 I've heard that the Federal standards that most states follow actually has no requirement on volatility but that California does. That (and taxes) may be one of the reasons California has the highest gas prices in the lower 48. http://www.gasbuddy.com/GB_Price_List.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 UPS came late, bad storms in the area, the new Airtex pump looks good but does not have the weight and quality of construction that the old AC pump has. It went in much nicer on the lift in the shop then when I was doing them under the car on my back in the garage. I lowered the car and hit the priming pump switch for about 5 seconds and raised the car back up to happily find the glass bowl filled with fuel. The car started right up and I wanted to take it for a short test spin but the weather again turned foul and I put it in the garage instead, I don`t intentionally drive the car in the rain anymore if I don`t have to. I`am certainly indebted to all you guys on this forum and thank you for your ideas and input, this site is an invaluable resource for knowledge and support. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 did you check to assure the cam lever pivot pin is properly retained in the pump casting???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 The pivot pin looked ok to my untrained eye, but I have to say I was not impressed by the weight/heft of the pump and the cam lever itself just seemed "cheap". I can now see why guys buy the rebuild kits and redo their original or NOS pumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Davey Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Linus - In the picture of the fuel pump - it looks like the fittings on the left may have a small fuel leak? Some shiny wet droplets hanging on the fuel line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Not long ago I rebuilt a fuel pump using the Antique Auto Cellar kit. This kit came with an extended length pivot pin secured with cir-clips so it should not work its way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 The pivot pin looked ok to my untrained eye, but I have to say I was not impressed by the weight/heft of the pump and the cam lever itself just seemed "cheap". I can now see why guys buy the rebuild kits and redo their original or NOS pumps. Based on my experience with "new" pumps, and that from others here, I regret to inform you that you will be pulling that pump out again. Probably after it strands you along side the road with a pivot pin that has walked out. Even though they "look good" the fit isn't as tight as it should be and after a while it will begin it's trek out one side or the other until the arm falls off the pin. I highly recommend that you pull it back out now and use a center punch and put a couple dimples in the housing right next to the ends of the pin. This will tighten up the fit and keep it in place. I can almost guaranty that if you fail to heed my warnings you will be wishing you had. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Here is an alternative. McMaster Carr # 92735A250 $7.50 for a pack of 5. Quarter inch pin with 1 3/8 usable length. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pivot-pins/=sza44q 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40phil41 Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Thanks very much for that link Don. I have been looking for this type of pin ever since my 'new' pump had the pin walk out at the end of May. This is the second time this has happened to me (both times with my '41 Dodge). Much appreciated. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Linus - In the picture of the fuel pump - it looks like the fittings on the left may have a small fuel leak? Some shiny wet droplets hanging on the fuel line? Yes it does look like a leak, but it was fuel that had came out of the line to the carb when I removed the old pump, there was still a residual drop hanging when I took that picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Based on my experience with "new" pumps, and that from others here, I regret to inform you that you will be pulling that pump out again. Probably after it strands you along side the road with a pivot pin that has walked out. Even though they "look good" the fit isn't as tight as it should be and after a while it will begin it's trek out one side or the other until the arm falls off the pin. I highly recommend that you pull it back out now and use a center punch and put a couple dimples in the housing right next to the ends of the pin. This will tighten up the fit and keep it in place. I can almost guaranty that if you fail to heed my warnings you will be wishing you had. Merle I`m more than convinced Merle and I`m a wizard now at popping these fuel pumps in and out so I`m going to do something about it before it happens, and thanks Don for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Well it took less than the promised 2 month wait for the State of PA to release my plates, so back on the road legally registered and tagged for the 1st time in 14 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Does Pennsylvania allow the use of year of manufacture tags? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Yes Don they do, but it is an even bigger pain in the neck than regular antique plates and it almost doubles the cost. I got a set on 1948 NY plates with the car and was going to use them but then something happened and I never did. I posted in another thread about how I got my coupe which was pure chance. The rest of the story gets even more involved... I get the D24 home from where it had been put into "mothballs" literally and my Father was over to see it. He stood there looking very oddly at the car, almost the "deer in the headlights look" and I got concerned and asked him what was wrong. He didn`t say a word but came to life and darted all around and inside the car like a little kid. Again concerned I asked what was up and he said I HAD THIS CAR, I didn`t understand until he explained. After he got out of the Navy, the first car he bought himself was a black Dodge D24 custom club coupe. He courted my Mother in that car, they went on their honeymoon in that car and for all I know I could have been conceived in that car. A few years later he gave it to his baby Sister Jody and she learned to drive on that car and she drove it for years. My Aunt came running over to my house and she too melted down when she saw the coupe sitting in the driveway. I knew that day in 1987 I could never ever get rid of this car, too much family history wrapped up in it. A few months later my Aunt Jody was killed doing something she loved, riding her motorcycle on the NY thruway she crashed trying to not run over baby geese crossing the road. I then decided not to use the date of manufacture plates and applied for vanity plates which I never had to turn in because NY went to another color. So I will continue to carry that old NY plate on the front of the car for my Aunt. I took this picture this morning for my Cousins. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 joe gibbs racing developed a additive,,that coats the inside of the fuel tank,,lines and carb, so the fuels of today do not attack the carbs or parts,,,,modern cars use mostly stainless parts to advoide the harmful fuels of today,,,all tho it needs to be added each tank full, it may be cheap insurance ,,i was just at a seminar about,,,, it may be marketing,,,but joe gibbs products seem to deliver,,,, the product is called driven,,,and is 10 bucks a bottle that will treat 25 gallons,,, just passing this along,,, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Repainted the fluid drive rear fender script, it never had any paint since I`ve owned the car. I also spent some time freeing up the exhaust manifold damper and it`s spring which was frozen solid, now it moves and functions beautifully like the workings of a Swiss watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 The first of the Tan Lap Belts gets installed for the front seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I don`t know if anyone else had a similar experience but I had a heck of a time getting duplicate keys made for my D24. I went to the two nearest Hardware stores to me, one has been there since before WW2 and a large True Value Hardware also pretty vintage. Neither of these establishments had the necessary key blanks to duplicate my car keys,both places said they haven`t had those key blanks for 8-10 years. This was becoming an issue because I only had one set and they weren`t pretty. I know I had made extra keys years ago but they seem to have gotten lost when we moved a few years back, and the set I had in hand were aluminum keys, and the ignition key was slightly bent and was starting to crack in the middle. So I started calling locksmiths in the nearest "big city" and most said no, finally I called the ACME Lock and Safe Co (reminded me of the Roadrunner Cartoons). and an old timer answered said sure he could make then for me. I took the 20 mile ride and got steel keys cut for $3 a piece, this is cheap as I`ve seen these key blanks on Ebay for $12-$15 a piece uncut. What was funny was all these people were quite versed in keys, and none had ever seen car keys made from aluminum blanks before. I got lucky and the new keys all work, the locksmith was a little concerned at first because the aluminum keys were so worn. It`s definitely a load off my mind to have spares again and put those aluminum keys into the archives. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linus6948 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Well the Bride came out for her first ride in the Coupe in about 15yrs, She liked it, we took a 20+ mile ride and went over the top of the Francis Walter Dam and She took some pictures on the top and headed down. The sky started getting dark and it started to spritz so we headed home, She is a little nervous about the age of the tires, I bought them in 1990 from Coker Tire, they are bias ply reproductions and still look like new. I see no cracking or checking of the sidewalls of between the treads, I probably have less than 1000 miles on these tires. Any opinions about continuing to run these tires, replacing them is not in the budget right now. They were always indoors and not exposed to sunlight since they were put on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Make sure your spare is good and stop worrying. Enjoy the ride. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 My wife and I crossed that dam bridge a few times when we lived in Walnutport. Nice scenery. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 i had a pair of coker bias plys on the front of my barracuda,,,and a friend had 4 coker bias plys wide whites on a 50 buick,,,both of us had the same problem,,,they delamed on the inside,,,when this happenes the tire seems out of round,,,and there is a big bubble on the in side,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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