uglysteve Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Hey guys. I'm getting ready to do exploder front disc swap on my 48 p15. I tried doing a search and found that I could keep the original MC, but it seems like all of you running front discs with the original MC have the original rear too. I've got a 9" rear with drums. Not sure what it's out of, it was on there when I bought the car. Assuming something 70s since that's what the motor is. Will that make a big difference? Also about the residual valves, I'm assuming I'll need a 2lb valve for the front and 10lb for the rear? Like I said, I tried searching and got a lot of links to posts that don't exist anymore, so hoping someone can help me out. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Check out- Joe Flanagan- recent post on the same subject. Trials and tribulations! Go to members on the top header-find Joe, then click on posts. Sorry Can't seem to just attach the page or link directly. Someday someone here will tell me how They do it all the time! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 There are all kinds of options on brakes. On my 1947 Desoto 9 Passenger I have disc up front with stock rear. No power. I use the stock Master Cylinder with a remote fill. I do recommend however that you change over to Russell Racing DOT approved flexible hoses in place of the rubber ones. I have had NAPA hoses with six months on them develop a bulge. Scary on a single master cylinder set up. To change you need an flare to AN adaptor on each end of each line. Russell makes those as well. I use a remote fill on the firewall to keep and eye on the fluid without having to take up the carpet. Tilton Racing makes a plastic one you can see through. On my 1949 I did a 4-wheel disc set up with the 1990 Cad-Eldorado rears with a integral e-brake and a midland-ross remote power brake booster in the trunk. I used the stock master cylinder with a 1950 Chrysler power brake pedal. This set up works almost too well. It can in a panic stop at 60 MPH send you through the windshield if you do not hang on! It all comes down to what you want. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglysteve Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Found that thread thanks DJ. Just finished reading the whole thing. Very helpful. I was considering getting a dual chamber MC and moving it to the firewall for easier access. I think I'm just going to keep manual brakes. I'm so used to driving it with manual brakes by now it's not too big of a deal. I'll check out those hoses James. I spoke with another member about doing the explorer swap and he just got the explorer brake hoses as well, so when I ordered the calipers and rotors I bought those too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 You might find this thread of interest. http://p15-d24.com/topic/20422-krap/?hl=krap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglysteve Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Thanks don, I just read that whole thread. Kind of put me off of the ECI kit. Seems like the "kit" isn't really a kit at all. For the price and lack of customer service I'm not sure I want to deal with those guys. I'm still leaning towards just moving it to the firewall. Seems like as long as I get the right bore size and make sure it's a disc/drum master it'll work the same. That's the second thread I've read mentioning the pedal free play adjustments so I'll make sure to keep that in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Do you know what is involved in moving the master cylinder to the firewall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1941Rick Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Don...waiting for the answer.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Swing pedal installation, fire wall modifications and re-enforcement to name a couple of things. Then there is the clutch pedal still going through the floor unless that is also converted to swing. Then clutch pedal linkage or conversion to hydraulic etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglysteve Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Well, I don't have any of the old clutch assembly anymore. From what I know of the car, the entire drivetrain was modified sometime in the 70s or 80s. It's got a '75 Buick 231, 3 speed automatic, and ford 9" rear in it. Over the winter I chopped the top, fabricated a lot of aesthetic stuff...new drip rails, hood peak, smoothed out the entire rear end, made bumper guard tail lights, etc. i bought the car with the intention of making a nice driveable custom. So...since I started on it I've grown pretty comfortable with welders and torches and metal fabrication and stuff. I've found some universal swing pedal assemblies online. I was looking at one from speedway specifically. I'm ok with drilling holes to mount the stuff on my firewall and fabricating some bracing or modifying things a bit. I'm not afraid of that stuff. I'm just afraid of not being able to stop haha. I'm guessing all I'll have to do is mount the swing pedal assy and master cylinder, make a piece that braces the swing pedal assy to the dash, plumb brake lines and a proportioning valve and that's it? Easier said than done probably, but is there anything I'm forgetting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglysteve Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I do appreciate all the help so far everyone. If I'm being an idiot about moving the master cylinder please let me know. I don't want to die or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 No you are not being an idiot, it has been done many times. One of the problems is the firewall is not all that big and with a V engine the head on the drivers side falls under the master cylinder and booster sometimes preventing the valve cover from being removed if required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Since you have looked at universal fire wall mounted MC, have you looked at the under floor universal Floor mounted pedal brake setups? Even more of those avail. out there. I believe that i've seen someone here in the way past post that a co.called mbm brakes? made a floor mounted setup for our cars. (norms coupe? He's no longer with us ). Maybe a web search for the same?? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonstop Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I used the ECI kit on my car. I DID have to modify the transmission crossmember to clear it, but otherwise am very happy with the kit (except the lack of a pedal stop). In terms of ease of installation, An under floor set up seems likely the easiest way to go. There is also a site butchscoolstuff.com that lists kits as well. I have not had any experience with them so I cannot say anything about service or quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Easier is sometimes the best way in the long run and add in original operation and looks. I'd look that way first! Your choice! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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