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Champion aluminum radiator


Don Coatney

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Filled with water. No leaks. I initially put 2.5 gallons and filled the radiator to the top. Ran engine, once the engine heated up the radiator overflowed as I had added too much water so I drained about 1/2 gallon out. Thermostat opened at 180, thermostatically controlled fan came on at about the same temperature.  Engine cooled off a few degrees and the fan shut off. Ran about 5-6 cycles and the temperatures stayed in range.

 

I have not yet driven the car yet but I am comfortable this new radiator will work well. If one was full of energy and in a rush this job could have easily been done in one day. But I am retired and not in a hurry so it took me a bit longer. I am a happy camper. :rolleyes:

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One other issue to mention. ThermoLaser  does not work on shiny aluminum. The gun read about 80 degrees but the water inside was 180 degrees.

 

You didn't have your gun working in Celsius did you Don? 80°C = 178°F

 

It will be interesting to see if there is a noticeable difference in running temperatures between the 2 radiators.

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Don,

 

I sure hope that when you cut that radiator neck that you had access to a beading tool to put a new bead around the pipe.  You might be okay if you use a 4 pound cap; I would almost guarantee that the hose will pop off if you use the 16 pound cap. 

 

Marty

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Don,

 

I sure hope that when you cut that radiator neck that you had access to a beading tool to put a new bead around the pipe.  You might be okay if you use a 4 pound cap; I would almost guarantee that the hose will pop off if you use the 16 pound cap. 

 

Marty

Good advice Marty. However I do not have access to a beading tool, Nor did I have any plans to run a sixteen pound cap. For now I am running a vented cap at no pressure. I will be running a 4 pound cap as soon as it arrives.

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I just discovered one other major difference. The water pump to radiator distance is greater with the Champion Radiator. Looks like enough room for the belt driven fan. The box in the second picture is the same size as the box in the first picture.

 

fanclearance.jpg

 

P6230001.jpg

 

Another big plus is there is a slot (I assume by design) for my electric fan temperature probe in the top center of the front of the radiator. As with my old setup I filled this slot with heat transfer compound prior to inserting the probe.

 

P6230001_01.jpg

 

heatsink.jpg

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Hey Don;

Just curious.........is the coolant capacity of this alloy radiator the same as it was with the old one? I see where you said you put 2 1/2 gallons in and then had to drain some off. I know it may not make any actual difference as this new core is probably far more efficient than the old one. Again just curious.

 

I sure like what you have done. Looks real sharp.

 

Jeff

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Not sure what the capacity is. I did several hot/cold flushes today and finally got clear water. I left the pet cocks open for a couple hours on the last flush. They were still slightly dripping when I shut them off and filled with antifreeze. I added about 1.75 gallons and this brought the top tank about 1 inch from the fill spout. I then ran the engine at idle for around 45 minutes. The level never moved. As you said the efficiency is much better with the new radiator as my temperature held steady at around 195 with  the fan cycling on and off, hood closed inside the garage. My old radiator would not allow this long idle time without the temperature going higher. I should have replaced the radiator years ago. I am a happy camper.

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1941Rick, Yup a four bladed fan will be more authentic and more reliable than the electric fan, electronic thermostat, relay, and temperature sensor. But oh wow, the new setup lets the motor run more quietly and there is no fan noise above 25 mph. I pretend it is a 1947 Plymouth factory option like turn signals and radio. ;)

Don, I am actually running a seven pound radiator cap, MCS 7007. I had to cut the beads off my inlet and outlet. I have a minor  leak but it is from one of the thermostat housing bolts. I need to remove it an apply a generous amount of sealer to it.

I look forward to Don's next road trip post when he will have...no...temperature problems...really...to...report.

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Don;

Thanks for the info on this installation. It is going on my wish list.

 

It was probably a good idea to flush a few times. No need having any of that in your new radiator.  I have personally never seen another engine hold as much rust and crud in the cooling passages as my truck did. :eek: I flushed and flushed and even fished it out when I had the head off and a fair amount was still in the system the last time I drained it. Unbelievable how much was hiding. I have a large black plastic catch pan that I use when I drain the system in my truck. My truck holds 3 gallons. The first few times I used it after the truck had been running for a while......it was almost like a gold miners pan. :) It has gotten much better with time but that is after several flushes.

 

Have fun with it and maybe do an update after you have run it for a few months.

 

Jeff

Edited by Jeff Balazs
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mark,

 

I guess we have different definitions of reliable.  On my car I had taken the OEM 4 blade fan and beadblasted it and carefully inspected it before I painted it.  All was well until the day that it chucked one blade and sliced right through both the fender and the hood.  That was when I switched to my electric fan setup, which has been flawless for almost 5 years.

 

Marty

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1941Rick, Yup a four bladed fan will be more authentic and more reliable than the electric fan, electronic thermostat, relay, and temperature sensor. But oh wow, the new setup lets the motor run more quietly and there is no fan noise above 25 mph. I pretend it is a 1947 Plymouth factory option like turn signals and radio. ;)

Don, I am actually running a seven pound radiator cap, MCS 7007. I had to cut the beads off my inlet and outlet. I have a minor  leak but it is from one of the thermostat housing bolts. I need to remove it an apply a generous amount of sealer to it.

I look forward to Don's next road trip post when he will have...no...temperature problems...really...to...report.

Maybe less parts to fail but when they do it causes major damage. I was lucky with this engine fan failure. Dented battery box and cut headlight harness only. Your results may vary.

post-2787-0-87040100-1403587237_thumb.jpg

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Yes, yikes. I never imagined there would be TWO stock fan failures among the members of this forum, but there they are, plain as day. I can only share the pain with this cell phone photo of my car leaking its coolant after my electronic fan control failed in the Starbucks drive through lane.

 

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-BtgMz/i-h6vxcK9

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my coffee consumption is directly related to having been inside office/shop environment for my entire working career as associated with the military...old habits die hard...I can yet lay my head down about anytime for a couple minutes and catch a nap or a good nights sleep...I think I may be immune by now..

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I thought Starbucks coffee was good when I visited USA recently. They really need to chat with their driver's about the company image though (see attached) as it might give the public the wrong opinion...

 

That looks more like they need to chat with the guy in charge of obtaining/outfitting the vans.

Edited by Young Ed
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So before buying one of these radiators, I should take mine in to a radiator shop for what?

Well, you could take it to a radiator shop and sell it, then use the funds to buy one of these radiators. :cool:

 

I really do not understand your question. Why do most folks take a radiator to a radiator shop? Perhaps someone who understands this question will chime in.

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