Skrambler Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I know that this thread has been visited many times over, but I can not seem to find the direct links to it, so, I need to ask again. I have a replacement flat 6 motor, year unknown as there is no numbers or anything stamped on the block. My water pump is in need of replacement. Does anyone know the NAPA part numbers for this item? Thanks, in advance fellows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Do you know if your engine is internal bypass, or external bypass for the cooling system. Internal will have the extra little bump on the head, and the block, near the water pump. Not that it is a big deal. The backing plates on the pumps will be different to accommodate the water flow, and can be swapped old to new if needed. Does yours have the bypass elbow on top of the pump with a short hose going straight to the thermostat housing? That would be external bypass. Additionally, there should be some date coding on the block that will give you an idea of the year of the engine. NAPA lists two pump: Reman for $63 # WP 58458 New for $64.80 # TFW 42554 Both have the same pic of the backing plate, but the 58458 list vehicles mostly 1951 and on which would be the internal bypass. Rock Auto lists a new Cardone for about $49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 This thread should explain it all. Has some photos of heads, pumps, and backing plates. http://p15-d24.com/topic/5866-water-pumps/?hl=%2Bbacking+%2Bplate#entry342039 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Try to find a GAtes Water pump. Number 42554 they sell for arounf 45 dollars. Tese new pumps not have the sealed bearing installed instead of the old two bronze bushing like the originals. The Chrysler 8 cylinder water pumps used the sealed bearing and now they are using this inthe 6 cylinder version. I spoke to a Gates rep and he confirmed that the new pumps have the seal bearing go to www.gates.com and search for their water pump 42554 Also as a side note Airtex has repoped the old AC 588 fuel pump and the new number is 73201. Confoirmed this with an Airtex rep. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skrambler Posted June 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 Well Guys, did a bit of telephoning around to find a water pump. I found out the following. I could not get a water pump from NAPA without a 3 day shipping wait from somewhere in the North East. Auto Zone could not help me at all, they stated. Advance Auto Parts could also find me one, sometime in the next 5 business days. I was delighted to find that one of the small, hometown shops could get me one, overnight! I am to pick up the part in the morning and install. I will let you know of any issues. Thanks to those who posted replies. The information was priceless. Maybe to add a bit of additional info, if I may. I found that some of the Parts Stores were using these following numbers also. GMB-1202713 And 55-31114 Maybe these numbers can help someone in the future, Again, thanks for the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmalen1 Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 I rebuilt the engine of my 1951 concord and replaced the water pump. I wasn't aware of the internal vs external bypass subject at the time therefore I used the pump that the parts books called for. The engine may have been modified before I got it but it didn't have the bypass hose etc. on it at the time I rebuilt the engine. As I was assembling the front end of the engine I pick the water pump up to place it against the engine and the impeller fell out. I put it back in place but I am not sure if I put it back in properly ie the impeller could go in 2 different ways. Is there a correct way to reinstall the impeller. The engine heats up a little at a stop light in the summer time and the heater blows warm air instead of hot air in the winter regardless of how long the engine has run. I put a new thermostat in the engine just in case. I also don't know if I put the right pump (internal vs external) back in the engine at the time of rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Are you sure that impeller is even moving? It shouldn't be able to fall out like that or just be put back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 2 hours ago, Young Ed said: Are you sure that impeller is even moving? It shouldn't be able to fall out like that or just be put back. When I first got my car the pump was bad with the impeller loose on the shaft. Engine hated you putting a thermostat on it, would overheat if driven very hard, and no heat out of the heater. Fixed the pump and voila! Thermostat did its job, engine ran the correct temperature and the heater produced heat. Conclusion: These engines can limp along with Model T style thermo-syphon circulation but they really ought to have a working water pump. And for the water pump to work the impeller is fixed to the shaft and can't just fall off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 You got lucky that the impeller fell off . Now you know that the pump needs to be replaced . Better to find out now . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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