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318 going in my 1941 Plymouth - Update


Dick41

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Hi All:   I just posted a similar update on the H.A.M.B.   Here is what is happening with my 1941 Plymouth V8 install project;

 

After a lot of helpful suggestions from members on the PD15 Forum, I have taken the plunge. I have a 318 Mo Par mill going into my 41 Plymouth. There are some great threads on this Forum, and on the HAMB, from members that have done similar installs. The issues experienced by other Forum Members are correct (left side clearances with steering, starter, headers) and slightly offsetting the motor to the right.) Extremely helpful solutions...thank you!

One of this Forum Members suggested I look at Craig's list. So I found a guy nearby (N.CA) with a complete car. Car is/was 1971 Dodge Demon with various years running gear (74 Dodge Charger 318 which he rebuilt, 68 Dodge 4 speed tranny, stock rear end). All of the running gear is going in the 41. The guy i bought the running gear from is doing most of the installation and will retain what is left of the Demon. When done, he will have lots of good body parts, etc. for sale.

I spent most of yesterday on the internet and the phone finding products, comparing prices and quality. I'm using as many Forum vendors as I can: Butch's Cool Stuff for motor mount kit for one.* Other items just purchased are electric fan from Skip White, hugger headers from Racing Innovations in KS, mini starter from DB Electrical in TN. I mention these in case anyone else is looking for sources.

I hope to have a few pictures up soon.

*In particular, Butch's Cool Stuff (Terry) was very helpful. Great advice and he sent a really nice PDF on mount instructions.

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Hi Mrwrrstory

 

LOL!   :D The picture didn't show it, but the transmission is the same lovely green too.  The guy copied a stock color for Demons with the engine paint.  My 41 is so dark blue it almost looks black.  At first, I thought those green valve covers had to go.  But now....they are kinda growing on me.  Besides, I need green somewhere and the purchases yesterday took the green out of my wallet big time!   The hugger headers, mini starter and the 1" offset motormount kit should take care of the left side clearance issues.  No room for the fan, so here goes with the electric 16" one.

 

Question:   I have most of the problems resolved with converting to 12 volts.  My concern is the fuel guage and the tank unit, now 6 volt.  Mine works and I would like to keep the stock guages.  I don't want to use a lot of voltage drop resistors but I probably need one in the gas guage circuit right?   :confused:  Heat and Oil are mechanical so no problem.  Ammeter may or may not work (after reversing the polarity) and may peg out.   The radio gave up the fight long ago and the heater motor will be the one out of the Demon.  Same for windshield wiper motor....the vacuum unit didn't work anyway.   Changing over all the lights & horn to 12 volts.

 

Yes on the pictures.  Like "All hat, no cows."  I am still trying to get the hang of posting pictures of the build.  Most of the ones I have to date are too big (as in KB) so I am making them "smaller KB."  Will have some up soon. 

 

When I am done (soon I hope) I will have two 6 cylinder stock 41 motors, a 3 speed transmission, driveshaft and rear end.  Probably FS (cheap) as I don't think I will be putting this one back to stock after all this work.   Both motors should be rebuilt, at least top end.  Tranny and rear end excellent.  More when I know more.
 

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Dick41, as for the fuel gauge, I wired in a small dash light bulb. Slows down the swing of the guage. Needle moves very fast when left full 12 volts. Accuracy is as good as the original 6 volt. Only place I used a voltage reducer was for the 6v heater motor.

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I used a Runtz on my 49. My clock has been working on 12v for a couple of years now. After I installed the Runtz, my father told me he converted a bunch of airport equipment years ago and the fuel gauge worked on 12v just fine for years after. Like the old starters, maybe they don't know the difference.

The amp gauge is a whole different animal. It doesn't care what voltage is applied, it is only concerned with current. But BE CAREFUL!!!!!! Seems people like to go with gigantic alternators 100+ amps. That is no bueno with the stock amp gauge!! If you have a discharged battery and you put 100 amps through it = fire. I had a broken 47 gauge and I tested the shunt, it melted at about 55-60 amps so size the alternator accordingly or bypass the amp gauge.

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Dick, I have been running a resistor with my stock 1940 Dodge Fuel guage.....put the 318 Poly in there in 1973, as you mentioned the oil and water are mechanical and the Amp guage just reads amps, so its just the fuel gauge that needs the voltage drop........regards, andyd

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I never understood why folks want to add a 100AMP alternator to a vehicle without air conditioning and other appliances with a high AMP load. The alternator only generates enough amperage to equal the power drain on the battery. Even if the battery is low a 30-40 AMP alternator will catch it back up pretty quickly.

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I never understood why folks want to add a 100AMP alternator to a vehicle without air conditioning and other appliances with a high AMP load. The alternator only generates enough amperage to equal the power drain on the battery. Even if the battery is low a 30-40 AMP alternator will catch it back up pretty quickly.

I agree. I went with a 50amp unit on my 49 which is more than enough. I kept my amp gauge functional. Any more and the gauge would have to be bypassed to be safe.

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
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Thanks Don, Adam, Mr W, Don, Andy, Daliant and Rick:

 

Wow!  I take one day off from the computer and come back to a ton of really good suggestions!  Thanks to all.

 

Re the 12 volt alternator output.  The running gear in the donor Demon comes from several sources, so I don't know what year/model the alternator came from.  Perhaps a model number or tag will tell.  The motor is not installed so I can't run the alternator at present.

 

I like the idea of a voltage drop in any case as i would like to add an a/c unit later on.   Adam:  I googled Runtz and now know what it is (Speedway for one source.)  One Google search found Runtz to be an office chair :rolleyes:  but I am going with the listing for a voltage dropper.  I know to wire the fuel guage and sending unit through that device.   Horns do not have a relay at present (only one horn), the heater and wiper motor will be 12 volts, the radio is only a dashboard filler anyway and the light bulbs will all be changed out.  

 

Good information from you on the ammeter.   I will run it through the voltage drop also if I get a higher output alternator to run a/c.

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[quote   

 

Good information from you on the ammeter.   I will run it through the voltage drop also if I get a higher output alternator to run a/c.

A voltage drop for the ammeter won't work. It'll still pump the amps through it and smoke it. If you're going to be needing more than 50 amps, switch it over to a volt meter. That's the biggest reason you see them on all modern vehicles.

Edited by Dave72dt
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OK.  Back to the drawing board for the right lash up to keep, or not keep, the ammeter with a corrrectly matched alternator output.  Thanks.

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Dick, that alternator in my 40 Dodge is a 40/50 amp version, no more, its been there since the late 70's, originally I used the generator that the 318 poly had but with a 100amp driving light back then for trips I found the generator couldn't keep up with 100 amp headlights as well so the alternator was installed.....and I don't use the driving light now......lol........the voltage drop resistor I have is only on the fuel gauge circuit, nothing else..........andyd.   

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Thanks Andy.  I believe I finally get the concept.  Will be checking my alternator output soon.   Just for info:  You running A/C off that alternator you have?  I was considering high intensity headlights but may not do so if I don't have the electricity to run them.

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Dick , nope just the alternator but those hoses are for the heater which I've used about 3 times in 30 yrs...lol.......I installed it as I thought the rego guys were gunna crackdown on hotrods & I thought I'd need a heater demister........unless you plan on installing air con, electric windows and other creature comforts the 100amp alternators are a bit of overkill..............but check with a couple of sparkies..........as for headlights I have just normal 7" H4's, they fit straight into the 1940 onwards headlight buckets and are wired up thru a relay........the only "extra" things I have in the car are the electric fan, radio/cd thing, electric aerial, electric wipers and the heater fan.......the electric fan also has a relay..........the relays are shown just above the alternator on the engine bay side panel........andyd     

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  • 2 months later...

Hi All:  First, to the last question by All 1rse:  The headers were going to be tight but they would  fit.  I happen to have a brand new set, uninstalled..  Read On:

 

As it turns out, i will probably not be doing the 318 thing after all.  Clearances were very tight at the radiator (no fan), The engine and transmission were removed from the 41.  When, out of curiosity, we pulled the head off the L head, we found only a broken head gasket.  No ridge, no burned valves.  So, the 41 is  going to remain a stocker.  

 

I know this deicision will get me some attaboys and some criticism from members here.  I had been struggling all along with the v8 conversion idea.  I got lots of good advice from the Members here.... some were "Don't do it."  Others were encouraging and full of good information.  I thank you all for that.

 

What finally got me to pull that 6 cylinder head?   Jay Leno's U tube discussion and drive in his 1941 Plymouth stock 6 engine with three on the tree.  I was hooked again!  (See 

).   I loved the way his 41 sounded with the dualies.   His car even looks like mine.

 

After that, it was like a lightning bolt had zotted me!   The only decision, at that point, was full rebuild of the 6 while it was out of the car.  Full rebuild it is!   And, what to do with all those conversion parts.

 

I am left with my advance purchased conversion parts;   Hi speed mini starter, 16" electric fan and relay, motor motor mount kit (front and rear), huggie headers, new 12 volt battery, etc.   None of these items have been installed.   I will attempt to return these to the mfg. people but quite a bit of time has passed.   i may just have to "eat them" and chalk it up as a learning experience.  Any interest for any or all, at good discount, send me a PM.

 

I feel I am finally, on the right track and relieved that everything will fit.    The car ran great before the overheat and it will again....soon!

 

Dick 41

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Hi Wayfarer:  Yes on the "warming up."  It is never going to be a rocket ship anyway.  I would be in the market for twice pipe headers and perhaps a finned head and dual carbs.   You weere right on the expense thing though!   I checked on line and find the tab is pretty steep on those things at Eggy and Reds Headers.  Will keep looking.  thanks for the encouragement.

 

FYI:  Already had one PM on the 318 headers and fan stuff. 

 

dick 41

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Hi Wayfarer:  Yes on the "warming up."  It is never going to be a rocket ship anyway.  I would be in the market for twice pipe headers and perhaps a finned head and dual carbs.   You weere right on the expense thing though!   I checked on line and find the tab is pretty steep on those things at Eggy and Reds Headers.  Will keep looking.  thanks for the encouragement.

 

FYI:  Already had one PM on the 318 headers and fan stuff. 

 

dick 41

No to Eggy, just shave your head

Yes to Reds headers....good value for the money

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