clarkj Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Hi guys, new to the forum and thought I would let you know what I am working on. I have been working on Dodge trucks since I was 14, but this is my first one of this vintage. I picked her up out of Oklahoma as a complete, non running truck that had been sitting since the 70s. It appears to have been an old US Forest Service truck and still had government license plates on it. It has a 230 that was apparently original to a 54 Plymouth according to the casting numbers. Here is how it looked when I got it, and still looks now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 So far since getting it home I have rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the plugs, cap and rotor ( still waiting on wires), added a Pertronix ignition, flushed the radiator and put new top and bottom hoses on, new water pump, and new head gasket. I also cleaned the carbon off of the valves and pistons while the head was off. From the looks of it with the head off, this thing had a pretty bad detonation problem at some point, as pretty much every piston, every valve, and all of the compression chambers in the head look like they had been hit with a center punch all over the place. I really wish I had pulled the head and done a compression test before I started down the road of tuning this engine up. I really hope I don't find it to be too tired to logically continue with. I did drive it around the yard under it's own power the other day though, so at least that is a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Hey there and welcome to the forum! That's a nice lookin' '55 you go there, with some great patina. You'll be in competition for "best patina" with some other members on this forum! Do you have any photos of the motor with the head removed? Curious to see what it looked like. Perhaps there was some contamination in the cylinders that caused the marks? How do the cylinder walls look? Does the head have a big "P" cast into it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Welcome!! Nice C series. Keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Welcome and nice truck. Please say that you're going to keep the patina, looks great. -Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Looks like a great start to a project! I'd have a hard time not running it as is, looks great except for the front bumper that looks about a foot too big. welcome to the forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Awesome truck welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Awesome truck welcome! Ditto Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks for the welcome! To answer a couple of the questions, yes I do plan on running it just how it looks now. I think I will wet sand it and maybe use CLR to knock some of the crust off, but no plans to go any further. I didn't take any pictures of the engine with the head off, kind of wish I would have. Yes this head does have a big P cast in to it. I am really anxious to get her road worthy, and the trip around the yard made it worse! I was pleasantly surprised to see how freely it steered after sitting for so long. Once I grease the king pins and whatnot it should be even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Be prepared to just change all the grease fittings, I found mine were all seized when I got my truck, it saved a lot of grease after the first two were stuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unbreakable Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Another 55, cool!!! I may have some extra glass in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Please do let me know on that glass, Unbreakable! I have some of what I need located close by, but not everything. I actaully found a 55 dually with a 315 Hemi in it not a mile from me sitting in a fence row. The Hemi is locked up and the old guy seems to think it is worth more than I do, but I think I iwll end up with all of the other stuff I want off of it pretty cheap. He also has a 38 Plymouth truck that is taken apart but almost totally complete that I will most likely end up with, too. I keep telling myself 1 project at at time, though....or maybe that is the GF telling me that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Laramie, WY... I haven't been there since I graduated from WTI (now WyoTech) in March of '86. Welcome to the family. Nice truck. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Well I decided to do a compression check and I am not thrilled with what i see. I had a high of 90 and low of just under 70. I sure wish I would have done this before rebuilding the carb, adding the Pertronix, doing the head gasket, etc., etc. I think the old girl is tired and a re-power is looking like my next move. Am I wrong to assume I should be seeing around 110 psi on this engine? If I do yank her, I will have some stuff to sell like the rebuilt carb, rebuult dual action fuel pump, Pertronix, and maybe some other odds and ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Well I decided to do a compression check and I am not thrilled with what i see. I had a high of 90 and low of just under 70. I sure wish I would have done this before rebuilding the carb, adding the Pertronix, doing the head gasket, etc., etc. I think the old girl is tired and a re-power is looking like my next move. Am I wrong to assume I should be seeing around 110 psi on this engine? If I do yank her, I will have some stuff to sell like the rebuilt carb, rebuult dual action fuel pump, Pertronix, and maybe some other odds and ends. You are correct about the 110 psi. Are you saying you are not going to rebuild the Flathead ? If it is correct for my 1950 block I'd sure like the Pertronix (Jeff made me do it) if you plan on going non-flathead, but secretly I wish you'd rebuild your engine. Good Luck with the old girl, Hank Edited May 8, 2014 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 It's not uncommon for the rings to stick a bit, not seal well and give you low readings. Squirt some oil down each cylinder and recheck your compression. It may be as simple as putting a fresh set of rings in it. Do a complete inspection of the engine and it's components before writing it off. Then, if you find it's beyond what you want, or can do, at least you can give an honest appraisal of the parts you wish to sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Well I decided to do a compression check and I am not thrilled with what i see. I had a high of 90 and low of just under 70. I sure wish I would have done this before rebuilding the carb, adding the Pertronix, doing the head gasket, etc., etc. I think the old girl is tired and a re-power is looking like my next move. Am I wrong to assume I should be seeing around 110 psi on this engine? If I do yank her, I will have some stuff to sell like the rebuilt carb, rebuult dual action fuel pump, Pertronix, and maybe some other odds and ends. Get the truck and engine running, put a 100 miles on it, then check out the compression. This old beast has been sittin a long time correct? I am not saying you may or may not need a rebuild or valve job and rings, get her runnin, put some miles on it, then see what you have... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I am still up in the air on what I'll do. Looking at the prices of re-build kits sure makes me dread going that route. If I could just knock the rods out from the bottom and re-ring it and be good to go that would be great...but after seeing how beat up everything looked while the head was off I am skeptical that would do the trick. I sure wish it was running just a hair better so I could have a more honest idea of where to go. Right now it will idle and free rev nicely but is a huge turd under any sort of load. I am thinking some carb tweaking may be in order. I definitely need to check out my dizzy to see if the vacuum advance is working right, too. I did put some oil down each cylinder before testing the compression, just to address the good idea brought up earlier. I love the idea of sticking with the flathead, but when I can grab a running 318/727 at the pick and pull for under 400 bucks it makes throwing money at the flathead harder to swallow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 It may not be as bad as you think. I would try to get it running better. Maybe the carb is ok but you have a restriction in the exhaust? Try taking some vacuum readings and see what that shows. If it has been sitting a long time anything is possible. It could be stuck valves.....or rings or it may be something else. There should be strong clues in the vacuum readings you get. I would try addressing as much as I could and get it running as best as I could the way it is. Could very well settle in after some running time and a few early oil changes. I know mine has. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 It has been a long time since I've posted, but I may finally be moving forward with my truck! After deciding the flatty in this truck is awfully tired and needing lots of work I started kicking around the idea of a newer LA small block, poly V8, big block, you name it. I happened to be looking around on Craigslist and found a running 218/4 speed with 18000 miles pulled from a one owner truck only a couple hours from me. The guy just had the trans rebuilt and a new clutch put in a few months back and then had back surgery and doesn't want to drive a 4 speed anymore. I should be picking this combo up over the weekend, so it looks like the old girl will stay flatty powered. I would have rather had the 230 over the 218, but as long as it runs right I am happy for now. This truck is beat up enough that I really just want to make it run and drive reliably rather than dump a bunch of time into fabbing up mounts for swapping engines, etc. On another note, does anyone have a good suggestion for a junkyard radiator that is a decent fit in these trucks? My current radiator leaks profusely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I picked up a Champion Radiator on ebay for slightly over $200 part # CC4749 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I doubt you will ever know the difference between a 218 and a 23O unless you load it with grain and pull a long hill. Keep that patina, I need company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I'll be sure to check out that radiator. As far as patina goes, I will definitely be keeping that look. I really like how it looks now and I honestly think the body is too beat up to really warrant going too far with. I wil be sure to keep everyone posted with bits and pieces I plan to sell as I go further and make changes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkj Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Yet another question for you guys....I am looking at going disc brakes for the front via a kit from Rustyhope or Scarebird and wondered what master cylinder to use. If anyone has made this conversion and has a suggestion that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) I used the MC from the Cherokee. It has a proportioning valve with it. edit: I'm in central calif and drive highways a lot, did before the fire, and will do so again. I have a 3:73 rear axle and easily travel with the truckers so I wanted the best odds I could get. My truck brakes firm and straight every time. Also I did not get any fade when I came down the hill from the Sequoia National Park. Edited January 31, 2015 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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