moose Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 50 Windsor C48 full flow filter, 4000 miles on a rebuilt engine. Is this the right one? CH192PL Shouldn't it seal around the post? That gap is giving it a free path without going through the filter element, right? Do I have a variation on the housing or is the element wrong? I have been driving it like this for a year and a half now, and the oil turns black quick. Even since I rebuilt the engine this past summer. I got to thinking about this lately because I just yesterday had it on the highway again for around 30 miles. The pressure is good right at start up(55 or 60), and for the first few miles on the highway, then it creeps down to just over 40 and stays there. At idle when its hot, right after highway speeds, it goes real low(around 10) But then after some slow driving the pressure goes right back up(50 at 30mph) I've got a 160 thermostat in it, and the temp goes to halfway on the highway. Around town it stays lower. Should I go with a 180? I realize the oil pressure is kinda low for a fresh rebuild, but I attribute that to all of my bearing clearances being around 1.5 thousandths. I don't believe that's whats making the funny readings I'm getting. Anybody got any ideas? It says in my book that if the filter is clogged it will still flow oil(unfiltered) but the pressure will be lower. That's why I'm thinking this may have something to do with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I have an AC unit on my 39 Desoto and use the NAPA gold 1010 oil filter just like the fram that you are showing. Are you running a detergent oil multiy weights such as 10x30 or 10x40. These are detergent based and will get dirty quicker because of the cleaning action. My oil pressure does not really drop and it is around 40 when running down the road. I have aprox 20K on the rebuilt engine with the 180 thermostat. rich Hartung desoto1939@aolo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 All the filters pictured below will fit the full flow canister pictured below. They fit snug around the post. Oil pressure on my 40,000 mile engine runs 45 when cold, 35 at idle when up to temperature, and 40+ when up to temperature going down the road. My oil stays reasonably clean (as in not black) between changes. The built in by-pass valve on your filter is designed to allow oil to the engine if the filter is plugged and flow is restricted. I tested my by-pass valve using compressed air when I first installed my filter canister. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I have an AC unit on my 39 Desoto and use the NAPA gold 1010 oil filter just like the fram that you are showing. Are you running a detergent oil multiy weights such as 10x30 or 10x40. These are detergent based and will get dirty quicker because of the cleaning action. My oil pressure does not really drop and it is around 40 when running down the road. I have aprox 20K on the rebuilt engine with the 180 thermostat. rich Hartung desoto1939@aolo.com I don't believe the NAPA Gold 1010 will work in a full flow filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 don you are correct on the 1010. I have the bypass filtering system. Rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks Don, this one definitely does not fit snug. It'll rattle around in there. I'm going to try making a bushing of some sort in one of the other of the same elements that I have(I like to buy in bulk). I've also read that maybe running the 160 thermostat is opening up too soon and not allowing the water to cool off in the radiator. Maybe I should run the 180? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 I have a new 180 and plans to install it next time I pull the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Yes the 180 is probably the best all around temp/thermostat. I believe an engine runs a little more efficiently (sp?) at that temp, compared to 160 which is pretty cool. Thermodynamics or something like that....don't ask me to explain! ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Can a full-flow oil filter go on a 1948 or earlier DeSoto, Dodge, or Plymouth, or are you stuck with the partial flow filter? Do you need to modify the engine block to accept the Chrysler Full-flow filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Can a full-flow oil filter go on a 1948 or earlier DeSoto, Dodge, or Plymouth, or are you stuck with the partial flow filter? Do you need to modify the engine block to accept the Chrysler Full-flow filter? Plymouth and Dodge engines do not have the factory capabilities for full flow oil filters. Chrysler and Desoto engines might have factory full capabilities if there is a diamond shaped raised boss just to the right of the distributor as pictured below. I believe this raised boss may have been a factory change that happened with the development of the Hemi as the filter housing is the same one used on the Hemi. If your engine has this raised boss here is what you need to do. Remove the oil pan and the pipe that runs from the oil pump to the oil regulator. Then install a 1/8" tapered pipe plug into the pre threaded hole as pictured in this crude drawing. Pictured is the required pipe plug. I also drilled and tapped an oil drain hole at the base of my filter housing. If you have any additional questions let me know. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 This is interesting. When I got the block that I rebuilt, it had brass tube fittings in the holes in the boss. I assumed they ran to an external filter. If it was an external filter, would it be partial flow? I kinda thought since it was most likely military, and heavy duty(sodium filled exhaust valves) it would have full filtration. Is there a way to tell without pulling the pan? I'm going to pull the housing in the next couple of days to install a drain valve on the bottom. I'll have a look at my spare block too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Also Don, do you have a part number or the specs for the o-rings that go under the housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCurrent Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 So Don, What is your motor? Chrysler or Desoto? What year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Also Don, do you have a part number or the specs for the o-rings that go under the housing? I do not have a part number. I carried my filter into a parts store and sorted through there stock to find O-rings that worked. So Don, What is your motor? Chrysler or Desoto? What year? I don't have a motor However my engine is a 1953 Desoto bored to 255 cubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Dodgeb4ya Posted February 28, 2014 Solution Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) Here's some some Truck /Industrial engine oiling factory bulletins info dated 1947...... . Bob Edited March 1, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) Thanks Bob, I knew you'd know something about this. Edited February 28, 2014 by moose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 The block I rebuilt has the machined boss. I'm guessing that the highlighted area is where the plug needs to be. That would be directly behind and between the two ports on the boss right? I will check my spare block today, then check the one in my car. It looks like a piece of wire fished in there could tell whether its there or not. Another question for you, Bob- I've been installing the housing only with the two o-rings, no gasket. Is this right? Do you know what size o-rings should be used? here's some some Truck /Industrial engine oiling factory bulletin info dated 1947...... I'll tray later. . Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyO Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 . I don't have a motor However my engine is a 1953 Desoto bored to 255 cubes. Do you have a Engine Manual or a Motor Manual? Are you a enginehead or an motorhead? Is it a enginesickle or a motorsickle? Does your powerplant rest on engine mounts or motor mounts? Oh the humanity. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) Just use the two O-rings, NO gasket when mount the factory aluminum oil filter housing. The lightly highlighted threaded area is where the 1/4" slotted plug goes for stock full flow operation of the bolt on canister oil housing. Bob Edited March 8, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Today so far, I pulled off the housing, and installed a drain valve. While it was off I compared engine in the car to my spare block(stock C48) checked for the full flow plug in both. The plug in the spare C48 block was very obvious. It was also very obvious that there is no such plug in my rebuilt block! Whether or not it had one when it went to the shop that cleaned it, I don't know. But it doesn't have one now... I've been running unfiltered oil. As soon as I get the chance, I'll pull the pan, drop the crossover tube and install that plug. Thanks to everyone that replied and helped. Maybe I can mark this one solved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 In another post the full flow setup was mentioned. There was a drawing by Don showing where to put a plug. I thought, Great, I need to get mine figured out and Don has shown me the way. Went and looked at my block and I don't see where that plug goes. Here are pictures of it, a 251 truck motor with the place for the filter. What am I not seeing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Find and re-read the thread where I posted the drawing and instructions. The plug goes inside the engine block and cannot be seen. Perhaps a moderator can combine the threads so the answer can be easily found. http://p15-d24.com/topic/35475-question-about-full-flow-filters/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 So do you run this plug down the hole where the oil input pipe goes, maybe 3" into the hole? If so, will it be tight enough that the plug won't move over time, blocking all oil flow? Does it bottom out where it is supposed to stop do you have to measure or test to make sure it's in the right spot? Since pipe plugs usually go into a tapered threaded hole this seems a bit strange. I'll get a plug today and experiment with it. Thanks, Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 It does go into the hole where the oil line from the pump attaches to the block. And it is a tapered pipe thread. I used a tad of pipe dope and tightened to the point it would not turn any more using a long "T" handle Allen wrench. I suppose it could back out over time but I don't think I will live long enough to see that happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Thanks Don. I'm not sure why something that seems so simple now was so complicated. Mine took a 1/4" pipe plug, not 1/8". Gene 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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