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mrwrstory

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Much more progress when focused on doing rather than recording.

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Had to remove the fuel pump eccentric and modify the cam bolt seating to accommodate the modified timing cover which was modified to accommodate the Chevy water pump.

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Seems I keep runnin into snags.  Was all set to temporarily install the heads to check valve to piston clearance, ya know, the clay thing, and when cleanin up the head bolts found pitting that made me nervous.  At first I was tempted to use'm,...but common sense took over.  It'd be a shame to break one, especially after the engine is running.  So, new ones are on the way from the East Coast.

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I've also been on the search for a coupla mechanical lifters to aid in the valve/piston clearance verification.  Didn't want to buy a full set just for checking clearances.  Came up with a "dumbell" lifter from Mopar Perf, which is also on order.  :angry: 

So,....frustrated but wishing to make some progress on the project, I opted to try filling the timing marks on the harmonic balancer.  It took several trys but I finally managed to get an acceptable appearance.

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Really big snag today!  :o 

After the initial satisfaction of scoring a "dumb-bell" lifter, I set off to finish the job of verifying that there was adequate valve to piston clearance.  Got as far as installing clay and the rocker assembly...........

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Looking good huh!........... :angry: 

Could not drop the pushrods through to the lifters.  Looking at the gasket and another block I have revealed the problem.  Now common opinion is that you can put Hemi heads on a Poly block.  They do it all the time!...... ya right!  

I think ambitious die grinder work is in order where you see the oval hole on the right and round hole left of the bore center.  However, I am awaiting an opinion from two diff. experts before I start moving metal.

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Just learning about Poly / Hemi swaps..... I have a 270 Poly.

 

I didn't realize yours was a 325 poly block. My understanding is that heads swap from high block Hemi (315-325) to high block Poly, and low block Hemi (241-270) to low block Poly. They will trade low block high block but with a lot of problems not worth the fight.

 

Did you get high block Hemi heads?

 

48D

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Just learning about Poly / Hemi swaps..... I have a 270 Poly.

 

I didn't realize yours was a 325 poly block. My understanding is that heads swap from high block Hemi (315-325) to high block Poly, and low block Hemi (241-270) to low block Poly. They will trade low block high block but with a lot of problems not worth the fight.

 

Did you get high block Hemi heads?

 

48D

Common perception is that the heads will bolt on no problem.  But somewhere in the dark corners of my brain I seem to recall there "could" be a problem, like I'm seeing, in some cases.

Also to your comment about "high" deck vs "low" deck, I'm certain there is no issue with early (low) or later (high) deck head interchangeability.  I know of guys who have put the bigger heads on 241's and 270's, even 259 Plymouths.   However there would be no reason to put smaller low deck heads on a 315/325 because the valves and ports are smaller.

I have put my dilemma before a coupla folks who should put me straight soon,...I hope  :confused:    

Yes, I have 325, high block, heads.

Edited by mrwrstory
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"You can't put 241-270 heads on a 325 or vice versa. You can interchange between the 241 and the 270, and you can interchange between 315 and 325, but the "low deck" (241-270) heads and what not will not fit on the "tall deck" (315-325) engine. If you have a 325 Poly and want to convert to a hemi head, you'll need different pistons (availible new), you'll need the complete head assemblies with valvetrain and valve covers from a 315 or 325 hemi, and you'll need the exhaust manifolds (although you could substitute headers if you wanted) The block, crank, and intakes will interchange from poly to hemi." Hamb post about Dodge Hemis

 

Ok...gotta get my terminology correct. Low-Deck, Tall Deck

 

This is the post I read on the Hamb, which summarizes what I have read on websites covering all the Hemi/Poly Families. I like what you did with the water cross over, but due to the lower deck of my 270, the crossover is cast right into the waterpump housing. So I'll have to learn what guys do about that later down the road. Really appreciate your documentation on the build, will be interested in the replys you get from your contacts. ^_^

 

48D      

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It's Paul,....right?  You organized the Old Mopar Picnic in Central Calif. this past Spring,....right?  Maybe next year for me.

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Anyway,....I'm responding to this subject, here on The Forum as opposed to a PM, because there may be others who are interested in this particular subject.

#1 - I have heard many times that the HAMB can communicate "facts" that are out of context or just plain wrong.  (I'm trying to be nice :mellow: )  I think that's the case here.  The HAMB can be a great source for getting started but after you know your subject, you discover errors or ill-informed opinion.

Not an expert by any stretch, I'm a fair engineer and craftsman.  Started my project over 15 years ago, talked to a lot of folks and did a lot of reading, got stacks of reference going back to "the last century" :P ,.....1990's.  I started buying Dodge engines then and began researching the Hemi/Poly idiosyncrasies.  I am fortunate to own 4 or 5 of these engines.

#2 - The comment, on the HAMB, that you can't exchange low deck and high deck heads is just plain wrong.  That being said, why would anyone want to put low deck heads with smaller ports and valves on the bigger 315/325 engine?  Conversely however, the bigger heads flow more fuel/air and were a popular swap on the 241 and 259 Plymouth (Poly), with fuel, for running Bonneville.

#3 - A '57, 325, D-500 is where I started.  To avoid the cost of new pistons, I decided to install the stock 325's in a .060" over 315 Poly block,....believing as stated on the HAMB, and elsewhere, that you can do that.  "The block did not interchange."  The push-rod holes did not line up.  Somewhere in the foggy recesses of my brain, I recall hearing that could be an issue in some Hemi/Poly head swaps but, also want to remember that the interference can be resolved.  That's where I am this morning and I'm waiting for input from expert resources.

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The book pictured below has been my Bible. I highly recommend it.  "Tho out of print now it may be available on eBay or at swap meets.

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Also to your water pump/cross-over project, check this.  Thermostat housings are available from Summit.  'Tho not shown here, you can easily adapt a SBC water pump.  And, the alum. plates on the head (w/right angle pipe fitting) is available from Hot Hemi Heads or you could easily make them.

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Good luck with your project and I'll keep all ya'll updated as I work through this dilemma.

Edited by mrwrstory
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Hey Bill, thanks for taking time to reply.

 

Slowly I'm learning more and more....really like the thread you got going here! ^_^

 

Tim aka 48Dodger

Host of the "Clements, Ca Tailgate BBQ"

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Bummer it's not going to bolt together easily, but then where's the fun in that, right  :D I've seen enough of your work to know if it can be done you'll get it. I know nothing about doing this swap but your last picture comparing the two blocks sure makes it look doable. 

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Got the "go for it!" from two diff. Early Hemi guys.  Ironically, the other Poly block I have, a 1957 issue, has the push rod holes that accommodate both Hemi and Poly heads.  So, now it's sealed up and I'll soon be making cast iron chips.  Note the marker outline that denotes what I gotta do,.....16 times  :angry: 

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1 question,

what about the grindings and the lifter area?

 

Sure you have a plan, just curious.

 

Thanks,DJ

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1 question,

what about the grindings and the lifter area?

 

Sure you have a plan, just curious.

 

Thanks,DJ

Yes, I worry about that.  That's where all the grinding debris will go.  You see all the tapeing.  Next barrier is the cardboard taped down.  I plan to put an oil soaked rag down next.  On top of that will go my big welding magnets.  Finally, I'll try to rig my shop vac to suck some of the stuff away from the site where I'm grinding.

Wish me luck,  I'll letcha know.

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Edited by mrwrstory
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What if you tip the motor on the stand so you are drilling up? I know it'd be a PITA to drill that way sitting on the floor but at least gravity should help the debris fall out rather than in.

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What if you tip the motor on the stand so you are drilling up? I know it'd be a PITA to drill that way sitting on the floor but at least gravity should help the debris fall out rather than in.

Hmmmm,....ya maybe for drilling but I'm using a cobalt burr and it's throwing chips in every direction.  This seems to be working pretty well.  The magnets are picking up a huge amount of cast iron and the interior of the valley is sealed of and packed with oily rags.  I can also see the debris going directly into the vacuum nozzle when I'm cutting.  

I'm a little over half done in an easy afternoon.  The proof of success will be when the "bandages" come off. 

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Wow that is a GREAT modification, I like the way you stayed inside the lines. Looking forward to hearing that bad boy fire up some day. Real nice job Bill.

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  • 2 weeks later...

wow nice job,,,once i had a 340 X block,,,after it came back from assembly and balancing,, i  realized it didnt have the hole drilled for the dip stick,,,,so the machine shop told me what  i had to do,, that was drilling one hole,,,,,,,ide eb bonkers doing what you just did with an  assembled motor,,,,nice job

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