White Spyder Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I have a 48 Chrysler Windsor I need to remove the king pin so I can drill out the holes in the knuckle for my disk brake up-grade. In most of what I have read there is a retaining bolt that needs to be removed before you can drive out the king pin. On mine there appears to be just a retaining pin. Is there a particular direction I should drive out the retaining pin? Toward the front or rear? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 There are two tapered pins holding the kingpin in its place. They are tapered and should drive out from the small end toward the big end. So identify that first. If memory serves one side gets driven out toward the rear of the car and the other side is opposite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Spyder Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Mine is different. It has one pin on the top side. See photos below. Front side: Back side: Edited January 13, 2014 by White Spyder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 That is the pin. By "two pins", Greg means there is one pin on each kingpin, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Spyder Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Question is, which end to drive it out from. I am thinking from the second photo but want to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 The 2nd pic is not as clear but it appears that there is a machined straight edge visible in the 2nd pic.......that's what you need to look for as the pin would have been inserted from the end opposite the straight edge and is therefore driven out from the side that you can see that edge........in the 1st pic it seems that there is a completely round pin which makes me think as mentioned that you hit from the other side.......I don't think there was a "correct" side to install these from as it depended on where the machined "flat" in the kingpin became visible looking through the locking pin hole..........lol.........does this make sense.....lol..............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Hit the end that sticks out, I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I took mine off a few months ago and If I recall correctly they come out either way? I still have the uprights with the old pins in it laying somewhere Ill take a look and confirm this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 tapered means smaller on one end, drive the small end toward the large end, Install opposite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Spyder Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 UPDATE !!!! I did get the pins out and am now trying to put things back together. Unfortunately, when I drove the retainer pins out the flew across the shop Coaxing with a BFH will do that. What I now need help with is how the retainer is positioned to go back in. I lined up the notch in the king pin to the flat side of the retainer but the retainer will not go in the last 1/4 inch. Without the king pin in the retainer goes in all the way with out really having to pound it. Am I lining them up wrong?? reference the photos below. The arrows show the direction the retainer is going in and the notch on the king pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) I think you're driving the pins in the wrong way. Wedge side to flat in king pin is correct. Now that the pin is mushroomed on one end ( the one that goes in first) you'll have to grind it down to start in in the hole. Edited January 22, 2014 by Dave72dt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Dave is correct, the wedge side goes in 1st and as you can see the "wedge" tapers to just a rounded shape.....the wedge is jammed hard against the machined flat on the kingpin and locks the kingpin and stops it rotating in the spindle, thus allowing it to rotate in the upper and lower bushes that are pressed into the stub axle....as Dave mentioned the "mushroomed end will need to have that mushroom removed...should only take a few passes with a flat file or grinder........what you'll need to do is line up the machined flat on the kingpin BEFORE you install it into the stub axle and spindle, not forgetting that you also have to insert the kingpin thrust bearing and thin washer(forgot what this should be called.......lol......just remembered...the shim...lol).....the kingpin should be lined up so that when it is installed it is turned so that the kingpin lock pin will tap in and hold the kingpin.............lol.......does this all make semse?..........lol..............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 So I'm trying to drive out my king pins while on the car. seems like I'm having similar issues. One side stuck out and I could see the flat cut into it. The other side is recessed and looks round (no flat). I'm hammering on the side that sticks out and trying to drive it towards the recessed side. The thing isn't budging and its starting to mushroom the end. I go back and read my manual more carefully and I should be using a brass drift instead of a punch, so there is one issue. Harbor Freight run tomorrow. Is it normal to have to remove the upright as an assembly and work on it outside the car? That seems to be the next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 First, the term "bolt" isn't always used in the same way. A bolt need not have threads. If you changed the kingpin, the new wedge (or bolt or pin, as you will) may not seat as deep, as the flat on the kingpin is slightly different. If the land is machined .003" less, and the wedged pin or bolt has a 20 to 1 taper, the pin could stick up an additional 1/16" from previous. If you're using an old pin which has been hit in previously, It may have swelled on the fat end. This means the pin goes tight, but the kingpin is still slightly loose. BUT, if the kingpin isn't aligned just right, that pin doesn't go in right. The kingpin has to rotate a tiny bit for exact alignment. If it didn't for some reason, the pin will stick out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Main thing is to understand how the whole thing works then it does eventually become easier to understand.....lol........the flat on tapered pin locks hard against the machined flat on the kingpin, although it can be hard to work out which side to hammer from it should move fairly quickly if you are whacking from the correct side.........still we all have sometimes forgotten which side we installed this little **** from.........lol........ain't old cars nice?............lol...................andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 On many vehicles the tapered pin is a bolt as a nut is used to secure it. But not on a P-15 or a D-24. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 (edited) It turned out that I did have to remove the spindle and upright as an assembly. I first dropped the rear of the lower control arm by removing the 4 frame bolts and dropped out the spring. Then I removed the front lower control arm bolt and the eccentric bolt at the top of the upright. Pretty easy. The drift pin was mushroomed pretty bad so I took the dremel and cleaned up the edges as best I could. Then I applied a lot of heat to the assembly, enough for grease to flow back out of the drift pin from the flat area. I used an impact hammer to drive it out. Then I let it cool. The other side came out with two hits of a BFH and a brass punch, still on the car. Also, I could not find brass punches at Harbor Freight, or any other normal tool place (HD, Lowes, Sears). Oreilly had them. I think its a tool more specific to cars, so start at auto parts stores in their specialty tool area. Edited May 18, 2014 by Bmartin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Go to any metal shop and buy brass rod of a few different sizes. Cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 (edited) I'm getting ready to reassemble everything and I forgot to note the orientation of the king pin bearing. I believe the side that is smaller and fits inside the larger bearing case is the side that faces down. I also believe this is the side with the shim on it. AB did not include an exploded view in their kit and there isn't one in the service manual. Disassembled pic: Edited May 31, 2014 by Bmartin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 This might or might not help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Thanks Don! That covers it, shim on bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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