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rocker panel rustproofing


Ward Duffield

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I have heard of an attachment to your paint gun that you can insert inside an area and which will spray the paint around liberally. I believe it acts almost like a sprinkler. In your case I would use Zero Rust. Some guys like POR15. I just happen to have some experience with Zero Rust and have been pleased with it. It's been on my Plymouth's rusty surfaces for nearly 12 years now with no sign of failure. 

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At last years AACA annual Meeting there was a car restoration seminar from a local shop up in the Allentown PA area.  This young man that did the restoration is a perfectionist and he show how he tackles the task of doing a full body off resto and this includes bracing the body and includes doing the painting.

 

To get into areas like the rockers and other inside areas he likes to get a coat of rust proofing paint. He showed us that he uses a regular outdoor garden sprayer and then can insert the nozzle and the wand into the small areas that his large gun cannot reach. If there is a section that needs access and this is no opening then he drills a small hole and then paints inthe inde of the body and then fills the holes with lead of other compound to seal off the opening. 

 

His cars that he has done have all won AACA 1st and Grand NAtional awards. I have seen his work and for a young man thais is quality information. 

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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Unless thee areas are holding moisture, or you are in a very salty humid environment, not sure this should be a problem.

If you drive these cars in snow, wet gravel roads, salty slushy stuff, most likely will  then be an issue.

If you park your car for months on end in tall wet grass and weeds, that could be a problem too.

Ward, possibly a Shutz gun, spray in rubberized rocker guard, or has Joe mentioned spray in something with a paint gun.

I also believe in good drain holes in rockers, and door bottoms but that is just Me....good luck

Edited by Fargos-Go-Far
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I personally think there is nothing better than oil reduced down with kerosene for small areas like rockers and inside door panels. Once the oil is reduced it will leak into the smallest crevices that paint will not, and  Besides, there are very few paints that will stick without proper preparation to clean the metal. When the oil is reduced it can easily be sprayed through a weed sprayer. You should only do this after all painting is done, and let the vehicle set for several days where dripping oil will not hurt the surface the vehicle is on.

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I have heard of an attachment to your paint gun that you can insert inside an area and which will spray the paint around liberally. I believe it acts almost like a sprinkler. In your case I would use Zero Rust. Some guys like POR15. I just happen to have some experience with Zero Rust and have been pleased with it. It's been on my Plymouth's rusty surfaces for nearly 12 years now with no sign of failure. 

Jeez Joe, 12 years already? Seems like yesterday when you and I started working on our cars and you sent me rear main seal rubbers.

 

rs2-1.jpg

 

I personally think there is nothing better than oil reduced down with kerosene for small areas like rockers and inside door panels. Once the oil is reduced it will leak into the smallest crevices that paint will not, and  Besides, there are very few paints that will stick without proper preparation to clean the metal. When the oil is reduced it can easily be sprayed through a weed sprayer. You should only do this after all painting is done, and let the vehicle set for several days where dripping oil will not hurt the surface the vehicle is on.

As DCurrent works in a body shop that was once managed by a guy I went to high school with (and this guy speaks highly of him) I fully trust this opinion.

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Pull the sill plates off and take it to one of those rust-proofing places, they have long wands to shoot that stuff into enclosed areas plus the stuff they use is almost like a runny jelly, it'll stay in there for a while. 

Used motor oil in a garden sprayer is a good DYI option.

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I lived in Cleveland, Ohio for 30 years, and seen alot of rust.

I would not use any kind of oil for any rustproofing, clean or dirty.

The oil attracts dirt, and then oily dirt attracts moisture, and then rust.

I have seen many oily dirt covered oilpans rust through completely.

What I use for rustproofing is an acid type chemical prior to primer and paint.

There are many different spray wands/nozzels available to spray into hidden areas.

I drill a hole in boxed areas, to insert a spray wand, spray alot of thinner paint,

and then install a rubber plug.

My 38 Coupe is holding up very good after 27 years.....

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Jeez Joe, 12 years already? Seems like yesterday when you and I started working on our cars and you sent me rear main seal rubbers.

 

rs2-1.jpg

 

As DCurrent works in a body shop that was once managed by a guy I went to high school with (and this guy speaks highly of him) I fully trust this opinion.

I know Don. Time flies, huh? I don't know what I'll do once my project is done. But then again, "done" in this hobby probably doesn't exist. I think that's a good thing.

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Pull the sill plates off and take it to one of those rust-proofing places, they have long wands to shoot that stuff into enclosed areas plus the stuff they use is almost like a runny jelly, it'll stay in there for a while. 

Used motor oil in a garden sprayer is a good DYI option.

The problem with the places that do this like Z-Bart do not disclose that the wax they spray will not work on sheetmetal with previous rust. Nor do they tell you that when the rust comes back, and it will, their guarantee is only money back. A refund if you have a receipt. They will not fix the rust. Secondly the repair is about impossible to repair with all that wax in the cracks and crevices of wherever it needs repaired from rust.

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I like the oil treatment on older, rusted metals. I also find, that if any area does not hold water,moisture, crud and dirt, the rotting process is slow to nil. I find anything, such as a rocker panel or any other panel, that is not open to drain is vulnerable to rust through.

When i repaired the floors and rockers on my 47 Chrysler, i did not use boxed rocker panels, used square tube steel covered on the top with 16 gauge sheet metal, nothing underneath to hold moisture and crud.

My 2005 Caravan has some rust through on rockers only because I live on a gravel road, and the gravel dust along with the dust control worked it's way into the rocker panels. It no doubt was wet and moist and has rotted through, I cut open drains and nothing hangs in there anymore.

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