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Cheap split headers for 218/230


casper50

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There are also the Langdon repops of the old cast iron Fentons. http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#!/~/product/category=412417&id=1396124. They are a bit pricier than the Red's version but are cast iron rather than tubes and should last much longer.

 

I had them on my 218 and now on my 230 running through 2.25 inch pipes with a cross over and small turbo mufflers. In the picture they look real close to the fuel pump but it is just the angle that the picture was taken from, there is actually more than enough clearance.

 

Here is a clip of the sound on my original 218. Have not done a clip of them on the 230 but they sound about the same.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxfKQ4KMM9s

 

100_3349-L.jpg

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No I have a buddy with a old Power Wagon that wants them. There are a set of Fentons on Ebay rite now. The guy has a Sharp intake also.

 

They are actually Langdon's cast iron Fenton repops on ebay. I'm also running Langdon's cast iron headers & very happy with them, though, they are more $$$ than Red's.

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these are what I had intended to run on my 230, there are 3 different 23" engine stock exhaust manifolds and I got hold of one of each of the front and centre dump manifolds and chopped off what I didn't need and had a local blacksmith weld up the open ends......never got to hear them as I sold the engine and car......boohoo.......had to do the twin setup like this as the RHD steering box lived where the front fenton header and clutch pedal at the rear would have hit.......andyd  

post-612-0-59707000-1388953932_thumb.jpg

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This is what I'm going to do: inexpensive to do, easy to install, same result at the green light!

 

Easywaytosplitthemanifold_zps26577d80.jp

Paul, do you retain the heat riser in this equation? How about the exhaust pipes, straight back or with a cross over pipe?

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  • 3 years later...
On 1/5/2014 at 7:47 AM, pflaming said:

This is what I'm going to do: inexpensive to do, easy to install, same result at the green light!

 

Easywaytosplitthemanifold_zps26577d80.jp

 

That actually doesnt work properly. You  need to move it slightly forward and then internally weld it shut so you have a front 3 coming out one collected and the back 3 coming out another collector.    You also need to be cautious of coming down on the oil pump.

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I got my setup from George Asche. This is the set that he made for me 20 years ago  and they are still on the car running strong. They were way more inexpensive than Fenton, less expensive than Reds or Moose`s and without question would last longer.   My original exhaust manifold hooked right up again which left me with just needing to 

run the one exhaust pipe. There was also no issue running too close to the oil pump or fuel pump that some have reported.   Ive since had him make me another set to

go with my AoK dual carb intake on a 230 and a big block set to go on a 265 ci motor.

IMG_20170328_135808.jpg

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6 hours ago, Kiwicranbrook said:

Maybe slightly off topic but has anyone who has used the rusty hope type   bolt on manifold split,. Does it give the sound we are all looking for? My car is right hand drive so as far as I can see all the available headers will hit the steering box. Cheers guys

Scroll up there is a picture provided by Pflaming showing what you are asking about 

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The reason I ended up having the twin headers made up here in Oz was that my 1941 Plymouth Coupe was factory RHD and the front Fenton header would have lived where the RHD steering box lived and it also seemed that the rear Fenton headers lived where the clutch & brake pedal followed thru...........there are at LEAST THREE different 23" exhaust manifolds....what I called a front dump at # 3 cylinder, a middle dump between # 5 & # 6 cylinder and a rear dump at # 7 cylinder(lol)......as my car had a single middle dump outlet I found another of this type of exhaust manifold and a front dump manifold and cut the heat riser off both and took the front & rear pieces to a local blacksmith(a benefit of living in the country) and had him weld caps on the manifold pieces giving me a twin outlet exhaust that cleared the steering box and pedals..............what I did was essentially what George Ashe did, tho' I was not aware of it at the time............btw note the use of 186 Holden carbys that bolted straight on to both the Offy intake and also the stock 1941 intake, much easier to get parts for in Oz...........

..........BTW Kurt I have never heard of anyone using the steel tube type headers here in Oz, however I have seen a couple of sets of the Fenton cast steel twin manifolds here but used in 20's/early 30's era hotrods, not post war cars...............andyd       

IMG_1387.JPG

Edited by Andydodge
more info
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  • 2 years later...
On 1/3/2018 at 11:27 PM, oldasdirt said:

I got my setup from George Asche. This is the set that he made for me 20 years ago  and they are still on the car running strong. They were way more inexpensive than Fenton, less expensive than Reds or Moose`s and without question would last longer.   My original exhaust manifold hooked right up again which left me with just needing to 

run the one exhaust pipe. There was also no issue running too close to the oil pump or fuel pump that some have reported.   Ive since had him make me another set to

go with my AoK dual carb intake on a 230 and a big block set to go on a 265 ci motor.

IMG_20170328_135808.jpg

I have a ‘46 Plymouth with a ‘48 218 flathead, six cylinder, single carb. How can I have these made, how much and Where can I purchase a set of these?

Edited by SupremeClassicsCC
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Hello,

Try contacting Baron Racing Equipment (Tony Baron) 19935 Redwing Street, Woodland Hills, CA 91364  818-702-0043, baronthickstun@gmail.com.

He carrys Tattersfield products and he has Dodge and Plymouth,Desoto and Chrysler products. I met him at my Early Ford club meeting.

 

 

Ernie Baily

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18 hours ago, Ernie Baily said:

Hello,

Try contacting Baron Racing Equipment (Tony Baron) 19935 Redwing Street, Woodland Hills, CA 91364  818-702-0043, baronthickstun@gmail.com.

He carrys Tattersfield products and he has Dodge and Plymouth,Desoto and Chrysler products. I met him at my Early Ford club meeting.

 

 

Ernie Baily

Thank you. 

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The one shown in the blurry photo bucket pic will work fine assuming the piece of pipe goes up into the heat riser casting, and is angle cut to encourage most of the flow out rather than over the pipe.  Remember fluids will always choose the path of least resistance,especially with a bit of encouragement.

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