53dodgekustom Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Looking for the sheet metal clutch cover that goes on the bottom of the bell housing. 53-54 dodge. Non fluid drive. Don't know what other cars will work. The housing is 13 inches long. I've never had one for it. Been running it open. Edited January 25, 2014 by 53dodgekustom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 That is a fluid drive housing there. A non-fluid drive clutch cover is only half that size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 That is a fluid drive housing there. A non-fluid drive clutch cover is only half that size. I agree. Pictured is a non fluid drive cover. Only 4 bolts hold it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hoffmeyer Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 His car may well be non Fluid Drive. '53 through at least '55 Dodge and '55 Plymouth standard trans V8 cars used the Fluid Drive housing with a long sleeve or spacer to hold the throwout bearing that took up the same space as the fluid coupling. 6 cylinder cars may have used the same setup. Paul H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 His car may well be non Fluid Drive. '53 through at least '55 Dodge and '55 Plymouth standard trans V8 cars used the Fluid Drive housing with a long sleeve or spacer to hold the throwout bearing that took up the same space as the fluid coupling. 6 cylinder cars may have used the same setup. Paul H Yes. All 53-54 dodges use the longer bell hosing. However plymouth standards use the short one in 53-54. My collar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 So maybe any fluid drive covers will work? If someone has one they could post a picture if with some measurements that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Well, I learn something every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) So now I'm kind of confused. If the Plymouths have the long input shafts...how do you plug one into, for instance, a '48 Dodge with the shorter length bell housing. ? Does not sound like such a bolt-in. Ooops never mind...I think I got it/figured it out. k. Edited January 26, 2014 by Lumpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 So now I'm kind of confused. If the Plymouths have the long input shafts...how do you plug one into, for instance, a '48 Dodge with the shorter length bell housing. ? Does not sound like such a bolt-in. Ooops never mind...I think I got it/figured it out. k. You have to tare half the transmission apart and switch the input shafts. I had to do this back in 2008. The overdrive was out of a 52 plymouth standard shift and my three speed had the longer shaft. I guess you could switch bell housings and move your crossmember too. Ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) Seems like any car that was available with a v8 used the long housing no matter what engine and trans combo. 53-56 dodge and 55-56 plymouth. Edited January 26, 2014 by 53dodgekustom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Okay, good to know. Does not sound like a big problem, just some extra work. k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) You have to tare half the transmission apart and switch the input shafts. I had to do this back in 2008. The overdrive was out of a 52 plymouth standard shift and my three speed had the longer shaft. I guess you could switch bell housings and move your crossmember too. Ha. What input shafts? That's a nice calender though. Edited January 26, 2014 by Frank Elder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Well, looking at everything involved I decided to just pay the $130 to have Fatman modify them for me. I'm getting down to the wire on time and modifying those would easily take a whole Saturday. I was kind of weary on bending them. Seemed like a fair price to modify them. i could be wrong, but im sure they are not going to rebend your steering arms,,all applications are different,and they have no idea how far up or down the rack is positioned,, but u never know do you know are they going to re-reem them also ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 i could be wrong, but im sure they are not going to rebend your steering arms,,all applications are different,and they have no idea how far up or down the rack is positioned,, but u never know do you know are they going to re-reem them also ? I'm running the stock steering box. And the spindles move the arms up 3inches. So they should know were it's all at. The instructions say you just bend the one so it has a 3ich drop and swap sides and flip over to take advantage of the one that already has a drop in it. Then ream them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I'm running the stock steering box. And the spindles move the arms up 3inches. So they should know were it's all at. The instructions say you just bend the one so it has a 3ich drop and swap sides and flip over to take advantage of the one that already has a drop in it. Then ream them. ok kool ide have them modify them also,,,i may have them modify them and reem them ill just re bend them,, once i can get in the garage if thsi weather ever lets up,,,, yours is comming along nicely,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Well as of today I have a completed front suspension, steering and brakes on my car. It took a little bit of figuring. Here's what it all entailed. Firstly, Mike from Scarebird had told me that I will probably have to space my caliper brackets out because the measurements I had given him from my hub were offset from 49-52 cars. He supplied washers for this. I also had the predicament of having to use the special countersunk bolts that Fatman supplies for the steering arms so everything has clearance when your turn the wheel at full lock. Fatman suggest to drill and tap your spindle for the larger bolts so they bolt in through your steering arms on the backside of the spindle. But this left me with no way to bolt my caliper bracket on!! So I machined up some spacers and threaded them for the fatman bolt and welded them to the caliper bracket. Then drilled out the spindle and bolted the whole thing together. Mocking things up in the beginning. Just trying to figure out my caliper spacing so the rotor was centered. You can see the scarebird suplied washers and bolts. My spacers I made for the bottom two fatman bolts. I just made a spacer with a clearance hole for the top bolt. I then drilled out my spindles just enough to clear the bolts and did the same to the caliper brackets. Then bolted the spacers to the bracket so I could weld them. Here's the steering arms after they came back from fatman for modifications. As you can see they milled and countersunk them for the special bolts and bent them for me. Everything bolted together. Don't mind my ugly welds! I was worried that the bolts would be to short but they were perfect. Edited February 5, 2014 by 53dodgekustom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 The completed brake assembly. The backside. Adjusted the steering box and put the tie-rods on. Everything looks good. Set my steering stops and the turning radius looks good. Goes up and down with no issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have also been re-sealing the motor and getting it ready to paint. Powerhouse. Engine junk. Made myself a mini paintbooth so I hopefully won't be painting the whole shop when i do the engine. Thanks for looking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) I'm about a week behind you on my engine. How did you clean it? Looks very good. Will be watching. Edited February 5, 2014 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I'm about a week behind you on my engine. How did you clean it? Looks very good. Will be watching. Lots of wire wheeling. It cleaned up nice. Took awhile though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 That's what I'm doing, wire wheels and a sharp scraper for the hard stuff. Will remove the front motor mount, timing gear cover etc and get them cleaned and painted. I like your paint booth, got to do something like that myself or lower it on a pair of car dollies and roll it out the door. Probably do that. Nice to have a shop that opens to the alley. Sure wish the city would let me extend my concrete shop floor out into the alley! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have also been re-sealing the motor and getting it ready to paint. Powerhouse. Engine junk. Made myself a mini paintbooth so I hopefully won't be painting the whole shop when i do the engine. Thanks for looking. Is that front sump oil pan stock? I thought that was a truck thing..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilduec Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Wow that steering arm setup turned out nice! Lookin good man. I've been workin on my wagon here and there, just got my rear spring perches and everything to finish the front disc brake swap yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Is that front sump oil pan stock? I thought that was a truck thing..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53dodgekustom Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Is that front sump oil pan stock? I thought that was a truck thing..... Yep. Stock as far as I know. Fits like a glove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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