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53 Dodge build thread


53dodgekustom

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Just thought I'd start a build progress thread of sorts on here. I've had my car for 8 years now and I finally have a space to work on it and funds to support a build!!! 

 

A little back story,

 

I bought this car as an excited 18 year old Mopar fanatic that was loving the then fresh look of 49-54 Chevy's and shoebox Fords with a tail dragging stance and wide whitewall tires. I thought they were so cool compared to the Boyd wheeled, teal colored street rods I grew up around.

 

I found this car on E-Bay in Florida and bought it sight unseen. I loved the rear glass and the rounded lines compared to the 49-52 cars. I didn't really want a 4 door but the lines and blue paint drew me in! Plus it ran and appeared to be mostly rust free. I probably paid way to much for it but I didn't care.

 

The long journey home to St.Louis from Florida.

 

    2006_0323Image0117.jpg

 

As soon as I got it home the brakes and water pump had failed. There was rust in the gas tank and the floors were patched with fiber glass and screwed in tin. So I tore it apart.

 

Sanding, rust repair and shaving.  

 

DSCF1873.jpg

 

Fixing the floor.

 

DSCF1227.jpg

 

Eventually it ended up like this. Rebuilt the flatty and installed an overdrive trans from a 52 Plymouth.

 

15323_1352887256171_1051104433_1086913_7

 

Then I was having electrical problems and life, other projects and no shop space all lead to it sitting for three years.

 

 Arounftheshop012_zps37987420.jpg

 

SO! My plans for the winter include:

 

New wiring harness with fuse block. (Done already)

 

Send the Overdrive to George Asche for a rebuild.

 

Clean and paint the motor and reseal some gaskets.

 

Final paint and bodywork on the inner fenders and radiator support.

 

Install New hardware for front clip when put back on.

 

Fatman 3in dropped uprights.

 

Scarebird front disc conversion.

 

Convert to non power Daul master cylinder in stock location.

 

New rear axle from Jeep cherokee, Dakota or Exploror or something. 3.73ish gears.

 

Rebuild front suspension and steering with new kingpins and bushings.

 

Raise driveshaft tunnel.

 

Install new rocker panels and rear doglegs that I have for it.

 

Posies dropped leafsprings

 

Hopefully I can have it driving by Aprill!!

 

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I have been doing some major research and I have a few questions already.

 

Does anybody offer a kit for converting to dual master cylinder?

 

Also, Who is the best supplier for the rebuild kit for the suspension and steering? I was looking at Kanter and Roberts Motor parts.

 

Thanks guys! 

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You've got the right attitude man.  Buying a car from Florida is always risky from what I've heard.  However, your comment, "'tho I may have paid too much, I love the car" is what it's all about with old cars.    Having owned the car for 3-4 years and not being discouraged is commendable.  GOOD FOR YOU!!!

​You will get lots of input from this group and comments about sources.  This place and its' participants will be able to help you with just about anything.  

With my limited experience, I would look for sources "other" than Kanter.  

And welcome!

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Do a search here for dual master cylinder kits.  You should find a lot of information, some pertaining to the P-15 series which takes a different bracket as the master cylinder is mounted inside of the frame where yours is mounted outside of the frame.  ECI makes master cylinder for both the P-15 series and the later cars (50-54).  Good luck on your project.

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your Dodge appears to be the same as the Plymouth 114 wheelbase.

quick internet search for upgrade brake kits for this model will probably result in about 3-5 retailer listed...

I know earlier smaller chassis Dodge shared the chassis components with the Plymouth..am pretty sure this will also...and I think this chassis did not change till 55 thus the 54 should also be valid data..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Do a search here for dual master cylinder kits.  You should find a lot of information, some pertaining to the P-15 series which takes a different bracket as the master cylinder is mounted inside of the frame where yours is mounted outside of the frame.  ECI makes master cylinder for both the P-15 series and the later cars (50-54).  Good luck on your project.

 

 

your Dodge appears to be the same as the Plymouth 114 wheelbase.

quick internet search for upgrade brake kits for this model will probably result in about 3-5 retailer listed...

I know earlier smaller chassis Dodge shared the chassis components with the Plymouth..am pretty sure this will also...and I think this chassis did not change till 55 thus the 54 should also be valid data..

 

Thanks guys. It seems like most places that I found in searching offer disc brake conversions but no master cylinder. The ECI stuff looks nice. I also found AAJ stuff that had a mc included in their kit. Need to make some calls for more information.  

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Check ebay, there is a lot of NOS/NORS stuff out there. It may be a little more $$$$, but better than all this crap made overseas. By the way, your car looks nice.

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nice build,,,  my 40 dodge when  i  purchased it,had a corvette master bolted to the original brake pedal/master location,,,the problem was,,,the push rod was in the wrong location on that bracket to have enough ratio or pedal travel to make it work  properly,,,i bought a  kit from master power brake,,that mounted the master under the car like the streed  rod kits,,,i didnt use there master bracket,,i  remade one just like theres but made it fit farther forward ( closer to the front or the car ) so  i didnt have to  move the under the floor battery box,,,original location on this car,, just  an  idea for you to think about,,,  kool project,,,

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Congrats on your build.  Not that it should affect anything on your list that you plan to do, but all 53 Dodge sedans and club coupes were built on the 119" wheelbase chassis.  Only the convertibles, hardtops & 2 dr wagons were built on the 114" chassis, which was the same as Plymouth used.  This should only matter if you start replacing sheet metal or exterior trim.

 

My first car (bought in 1964) was a very similar 53 Coronet sedan, but in the lighter blue with a white top and the Red Ram engine with 3 spd.  One of my two current collector cars is a 53 Coronet convertible "barn find", also with the Red Ram and a 4 spd Gyro-Torque semi-automatic tranny.  Always good to see another 53-54 Dodge on the road.

 

Rich

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Got the front suspension apart today. Separated my hubs from the drums and took some measurements for Scarebird. Seem like nice people to deal with who make sure you receive the right part for your car!

 

Control arm bushings are shot on both sides. Lots of movement in the A-arms. Kingpins are loose. Steering box needs adjusted, It should drive way better with new parts!

 

EE8BCD6A-58F4-4955-AE13-64845FE1CAC5_zps

Edited by 53dodgekustom
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Check shipping for less than 125 lbs. prices with somewhat smaller dimentions.
I shipped a OD trans from Ca. to NC. for $125  1 1/2 yr ago on Fed. Ex.Ground. Took some pushing to get my local Fed Store to take it without having to go Fed. Ex. trucking, instead of reg. Fed Ex. but it did fit within the co,'s weight limit and dimentions for reg. ground at $125 v.s. about $350+ for truck.
After you check, if so, lighten up that overkill shipping box! While it for sure is heavy duty and big but it puts you into a diff. class on shipping! ;) 

Best,

Doug

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You were asking about a dual master cylinder; I had made a bracket for my old 49 four door and used a 67 Fairlane master cylinder. It worked really well and was easy to make. I think there's some pictures of it on one of my old threads.

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Check shipping for less than 125 lbs. prices with somewhat smaller dimentions.

I shipped a OD trans from Ca. to NC. for $125  1 1/2 yr ago on Fed. Ex.Ground. Took some pushing to get my local Fed Store to take it without having to go Fed. Ex. trucking, instead of reg. Fed Ex. but it did fit within the co,'s weight limit and dimentions for reg. ground at $125 v.s. about $350+ for truck.

After you check, if so, lighten up that overkill shipping box! While it for sure is heavy duty and big but it puts you into a diff. class on shipping! ;) 

Best,

Doug

Yea the box is a bit overkill. But I didn't want it falling through! Another problem is the long input shaft required for my car. It makes the box super long and more weighty. I'm trying to weigh it with a bathroom scale so who knows what it actually weighs. The scale says 150lb. I think I might just bring it up there tomorrow and see if they will take it. To bad the closest store is 30 miles away. George said UPS or Fedex is what he uses.  

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So full of dumb problems tonight. I was taking out all the bushings in the A-arms and one of them just spins inside the Arm like it's stripped. The other ones came out but the threads on all of them look very flat. The threads on the inside and the shaft threads look good however. Am I going to need new A-arms? 

 

It looks like the bushing kits that everyone sells comes with new shafts and bushings.

 

Here's one of them. Not a very good picture though, sorry. 

 

384C41D3-C2FE-4F18-BA1C-91E93DD86586_zps

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My experience with the "UPS Stores" is that their rates are significantly higher than going direct to UPS.  The stores are privately owned and therefore extra costs are incurred.  Also UPS normal packaging is cardboard.  They charged extra for "my packaging" which was a well built plywood box for a cylinder head.   Maybe the same for Fed Ex.  I have used Greyhound for odd and heavy packages for significant savings.  The down side is both you and the recipient have to go to a Greyhound station for drop off and pick up,...in some areas, not a nice part of town. 

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I shipped a transmission through my local UPS store.  First I built a sturdy wooden box to hold the transmission then took the measurements and went to the UPS store and got their box that was the closest fit.  Installed my wooden box and added packing for the voids and sealed it up.  They had no idea that my wooden box was inside and shipped it for me.  I found our about the extra handling charge to ship in a non UPS box when I shipped my cam out to be reground.  The re-grinder sent it back in a cardboard mailing tube that he purchased from his UPS store, they make their money on their high priced boxes.

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