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Battery switch


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#1 Jeff Balazs

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 06:15 AM

Hi Guy's;

I have been considering adding a battery disconnect switch to my truck. I like the idea of a little extra security that one of these provides.

Have any of you added one? What have you done?

A few years ago I added one that had a remote fob to my daughters car. Not sure what the brand was?.....but it worked great. It just mounted on the battery and the cable went to it. I know it was 12V but if they made a 6V one I wouldn't hesitate to use it. I have searched but can't seem to nd one like it.

 

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#2 JBNeal

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 07:12 AM

I have seen several variations on the poor man's security system on some vintage vehicles.  There are battery disconnects that mount to the battery terminal and employ a knife switch to interrupt the circuit...I tried to install one once but had clearance issues with the battery cell caps & frame.  I have seen quite a few master kill switches mounted under the hood near the starter...they were simple heavy duty rotary switches, some were heavy duty toggle switches, that could be reached after popping the hood.  Then there are the ignition kill switches that can be hidden under the dash.  A simple toggle switch interrupting the AMP gauge circuit could do the trick...maybe that's how Biff Tannen kept folks from taking a joyride in his Ford   :cool:


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#3 P15-D24

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 07:51 AM

I have seen a problem with these on 6 volt systems where the switch didn't have sufficient contact area to carry the full amperage load.

When I tried to start with the switch on and in circuit the starter acted like the battery was down. Removed the switch and everything was back to normal. 

Point being make sure you get one designed to work with 6 volt systems.  



#4 MBFowler

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:31 PM

I use the cheapy green knobbed disconnect  on everything old.  They work fine on 12v systems.  For the 2.5 ton, if I leave it 6 volt I'm going to use a heavy duty rotary switch.  I don't put any of this old stuff in a garage w/o disconnecting the batt.  Yea, its a pain in the butt to disconnect it every time you park it, but its a lot easier than repairing or replacing a vehicle or a garage. 


Edited by MBFowler, 29 October 2013 - 08:54 AM.

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#5 Desotodav

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:54 PM

I run a 6V Optima battery in my 52 truck. I have often thought that I should install a battery disconnect but was also unsure whether an appropriate one is made.

I was disconnecting the battery a while back and the battery lead made contact with the wing-nut holding the battery hold-down frame in place. The electrical short that resulted caused great concern (and a nice burn mark on my fingers). I just leave my battery connected these days and try to drive the truck more often!


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#6 Jeff Balazs

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 04:39 PM

Point taken. It definitely needs to be up to 6V service.

Perhaps a quality marine grade item like a Perko? I will have to do some more research and report back.

 

Davin; It is all too easy for a short like you described to happen. I really like the idea of this sort of switch. Not just for a bit of security. It makes it real easy to isolate the system when you need to work on something too.

 

Jeff



#7 Don Coatney

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 03:55 AM

If vehicle theft is the issue has anyone ever installed a vehicle tracking device?


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#8 48dodger

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 04:38 AM

Find a switch rated for 6v...they are out there, and being used by vintage auto builders. Not sure you really need one, but I understand question. I would prefer an ignition swith for just anti theft.

 

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 The battery switch is important for a few things in racing......it has to be placed next to the driver (along with a fuel shut off), so if you have an issue with the car you can safely, and remotely disconnect the battery. A green twist knob isn't helpful in that case. Infact if you are having troubles, that dang knob melts..... ^_^

 

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#9 Merle Coggins

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 04:56 AM

They have a version with a key too, if you want some anti-theft protection. http://www.coleherse...at/208/2484-02/

 

You should be able to get these at Napa. Their website shows similar switches listed at 125A, but I'm thinking that's the continous rating. As you can see from the Cole Hersee site, they have an Intermittent rating that is 4-5 times higher. These would be plenty high for your truck.  

 

You could mount it down on the inner fender panel, near the starter. That way you could probably just reroute the battery cable, that goes to your starter, over to the switch, then make a new short cable to go from the switch to the starter.


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#10 Jeff Balazs

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 06:33 AM

Merle;

I do like the idea of a lockable switch. That feature does offer another level of protection for very little cost.

Not exactly sure where to mount it but the flange under the seat might work if there is enough clearance and a good way to route the cables. It would be real nice to have it within reach without getting out of the cab. I was thinking I would put it on the ground lead to the transmission. 

 

I think what really appeals to me is having a very convienient way to isolate the electrical system. If it is easier to use than a wrench then it will most likely get used a lot. To me it is as much a peace of mind thing as it is a form of anti-theft device.

 

Jeff



#11 48dodger

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:06 AM

In a few cases...the starter pedal on the floor is the anti theft device.......lol.

 

 

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1950 "The Brick" Land Speed Racer   1948 Panel Truck:"The Brick Hauler"  1948 turned BBQ aka "B-1-BQ"  

1947 1.5 Ton Flatbed                              1938 1.5 Ton Flatbed                             1949 1.5 Ton DumpTruck
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#12 TodFitch

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:25 AM

In a few cases...the starter pedal on the floor is the anti theft device.......lol.

 

 

48D

Definitely! That and the choke and dash throttle, unlabeled in my car, that have to be set "just so" based on ambient and engine temperature to get it started.

 

I don't go around turning off the circuit breakers to rooms in my house I am not in just to be safe. And I see no reason to put a master switch on the battery for the same reason. If your electrical system is in proper shape it is safe. If it isn't then fix it. Having a master switch won't help you when the car starts to burn because of an electrical problem, it just means it is more likely to happen when you are driving it.


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#13 HanksB3B

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:54 AM

A guy at our local Friday Auto Show showed up with a box of Porsche kill switches and announced come and get them.  I only took one.  Others took more than a few. They have a big plastic generic key. I used it in my BMW only because it leaks current and by shutting it off if I don't use it for a week or so it still fires right up not so much without the kill switch. Foot starter or not any deterrent (the more the better) is a good idea.

 

Hank  :)



#14 JBNeal

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 03:44 PM

This reminds me of the first time I took the '48 for a state inspection.  The inspector (a kid actually) made a disapproving face as he got in that old beast, then made an even more disapproving face when I had to stop him from twisting the key off in the ignition (the key is still twisted btw).  When I pointed out the usage of that fourth pedal, he scoffed, and rather than let me start it for him, he stomped on the starter and it fired up...he then threw the stick all the way up and nearly backed into the car that had pulled up behind him.  For subsequent inspections, I would start the truck for the inspector and remind him where 1st gear was  :cool:


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#15 Kensoldtruck

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 06:44 PM

A lot of the Model A guys just install an inline fuse in the starting circuit.  Remove or partially remove the fuse and unless the vehicle is towed it isn't going anywhere.



#16 Bradley S.

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 10:24 AM

I installed a UL Listed Cole Hersee Model 2484-16 master battery disconnect switch in the front of the seat base on the driver's side.  It is rated for the service and wAttached File  Cole Hersee Master Battery Disconnect2484.jpg   26.92KB   0 downloadsorks like a champ.

 

http://www.coleherse...at/207/2484-16/

 

 

 


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#17 Bradley S.

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 10:27 AM

Need the face plate label too.

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#18 Jeff Balazs

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 11:25 AM

Brad;

Yes that sounds perfect to me. I have an Optima redtop on it's way that I want to try out before I do this.

Thanks, Jeff



#19 wallytoo

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 03:25 PM

so, did you click on the link in one of the banners? for "flaming river, battery kill switches".
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#20 Jeff Balazs

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 05:10 PM

No.......flaming river?  :eek: Wasn't that the outflow from 3 Mile Island?

Doesn't sound like a safe bet to me.

 

Jeff






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